THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


1r 


NOTES   ON 

LAND   AND  SEA 

1850 

ROBERT  FRANK  EVANS 


^ARTletV6RITAmp 


BOSTON 
RICHARD  G.  BADGER 

THE   GORHAM    PRESS 


Copyright,  1922,  by  Richard  G.  Badger 


All  Rights  Reserved 


Made  in  the  United  States  of  America 


The  Gorham  Press,  Boston,  U.  S.  A. 


F 


Lovingly  Dedicated  to 
THE  Author's  Grandsons 

CHARLES     A.     FARWELL 

and 
FRANK  EVANS  FARWELL 


LIBRARY 


NOTES  ON 
LAND  AND  SEA 


NOTES  ON  LAND 
AND  SEA 

1850 

APRIL  17th,  4:15  o'clock,  came  and  found  us 
ready  to  leave  old  Shelbyville^JTeanessee,  for  the_ 
Eldorado  of  the  West.  Myself,  R.  A.  L.  and  C 
having  concluded  to  try  our  fortunes  in  that  far- 
famed  land,  so  bidding  adieu  to  our  friends  and 
families  we  stowed  ourselves  in  the  coach,  the 
driver  cracked  his  whip — and  off  we  went.  The 
first  few  miles  of  our  journey  was  performed  in 
silence — each  one  of  us  preferring  to  hold  com- 
munion with  his  own  thoughts,  than  with  one 
another.  Even  the  Lady  passengers,  of  which 
there  were  several  were  silent.  Reaching  M.  B. 
we  partook  of  some  of  the  Genl  substantial — 
and  again  started  on  our  journey.  By  this  time 
the  oppression  was  gradually  wearing  off,  and 
elastic  youth  began  to  manifest  itself.  The  Ladies 
talked  incessantly  'probably  to  make  up  for  lost 
time',  the  baby  cried  and  all  things  wore  a  more 
cheerful  aspect.     Reaching  N.   about  2  we  saw 

5 


6  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

and  bid  farewell  to  a  few  friends  and  acquain- 
tances, and  getting  on  board  the  neat  little 
steamer  "Countess"  landed  alongside  the  fine 
and  magnificent  steamer  "America"  at  Clarks- 
ville  about  1 1  :oi  where  we  procured  State  Rooms 
— and  turned. in-iox_tlie_nigbt,  half  sleepy  and 
half  melancholy. 

APRIL  1 8th.  Arose  this  morning  with  a  con- 
fused idea  of  something  being  wrong,  so  I  rubbed 
my  eyes  and  head  a  little  before  fully  realizing 
my  situation,  which  when  done  caused  some  sad 
reflections.  Hearing  the  bell  ring  I  put  on  my 
habiliments,  and  went  to  breakfast,  after  which 
we  all  went  up  in  the  City  of  C.  to  see  and  be 
seen.  Travelled  around  some,  then  wrote  a  let- 
ter. Left  C  about  12,  and  proceeded  down  the 
river,  to  the  'Rolling  Mills'  where  our  Capt. 
stopped  to  take  on  freight.  Went  ashore  and 
took  a  look  at  the  furnaces,  all  red  hot  and  glow- 
ing, and  concluded  whilst  so  engaged,  that  if  the 
place  we  read  of,  and  Divines  talk  about,  was 
any  worse  looking  than  those  fires;  why,  I  did 
not  wish  to  see  it.  While  lying  here  and  exam- 
ining the  mills  passengers  found  some  20  men 
from  Sumner  County  on  board,"  who  were  bound 
for  the  land  of  Gold — like  myself  and  compan- 
ions. Leaving  the  mills  we  steamed  away  down 
the  river  to  Canton,  where  a  couple  of  our  pas- 
sengers,  were   put   ashore,    for   travelling   under 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  7 

false  pretenses.  I  made  the  acquaintance  during 
the  day  of  W.O.L.  Manager  of  the  Company 
from  S.  also  several  of  the  young  men  composing 
the  company — found  them  agreeable  and  sociable, 
and  think  it  probable  that  we  may  continue  in 
Co.  to  California.  ,Bed  time  coming  on  I  rolled 
up  on  my  shelf,  and  was  soon  in  the  land  of 
Nod. 

FRIDAY,  APRIL  19th.  Awoke  this  morning 
and  found  the  rain  coming  down,  as  tho'  it  were 
trying  to  raise  a  deluge,  so  got  up  and  looked  out 
— then  looked  in  again,  and  finally  dressed  and 
went  to  breakfast.  Boat  took  in  some  tobacco, 
then  puffed  away  down  the  river,  to  the  wreck  of 
the  "Charles  Carrol",  and  put  aboard  some  pork 
that  the  submarine  No.  2  had  raised.  Rain — 
Rainy — Raining  and  so  we  travelled  on  to  Eddy- 
ville  to  receive  more  freight.  Partook  of  a  light 
supper,  played  a  few  games  of  whist  and  then 
retired. 

APRIL  20th.  Arose  at  7,  broke  fast,  and  found 
the  rain  falling  as  on  yesterday.  Got  on  some 
sugar  kettles  and  more  tobacco,  and  returned  to 
Ede,  remaining  there  until  noon.  Myself  and  C 
went  to  the  P.H.  and  got  dinner,  consisting  of 
middling  meat,  with  a  streak  of  lean  and  a  streak 
of  fat,  fried  eggs,  corn  bread  and  sweet  milk. 
Extracted  a  molar  for  one  of  the  Gallatin  Co. 
Saw  a  man  who  could  talk  faster  and  more  of  it 


8  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

than  any  man  I  ever  saw  before.  _He  (the  talking 

machine)    was  going  to  California provided 

his  wife  was  willing,  as  he  knew  he  could  make 
his  everlasting  fortune  there  in  a  short  time,  for 
he  had  a  patent  gold  washing  machine — which 
would  wash  gold  out  of  the  dirt  as  well  where  it 
was,  as  where  it  was  not.  Saw  the  wreck  of  the 
clipper  sunk.  After  tea  took  on  board  1400 
dozen  chickens,  ducks,  turkeys  and  geese.  No 
danger  of  starving. 

APRIL  2ist,  Awoke  up  this  morning  at  Smith- 
land,  where  we  had  some  cotton  to  get  aboard, 
Sunday  tho'  it  be.  So  after  eating  breakfast, 
myself  and  K  went  up  in  town,  and  walked  all 
over  the  City.  I  then  called  at  the  P.H.  to  see 
Miss  P.  and  found  her  absent,  consequently  did 
not  find  her  to  deliver  an  epistle  to  her  Pa.  Hear- 
ing the  church  bells  ring  and  feeling  a  little  mel- 
ancholy pious  concluded  to  go  and  hear  a  sermon 
— did  so,  and  heard  a  very  good  one  at  the 
M.E.  church.  In  the  course  of  his  remarks,  the 
Preacher  mentioned  that  we  were  all  creatures 
of  imitation,  which  I  had  seen  illustrated  very 
fairly  the  day  before,  thus :  One  of  our  passen- 
gers who  had  never  travelled  much,  had  been 
down  examing  the  propelling  powers,  and  internal 
workings  of  our  craft,  and  seeing  all  the  ma- 
chinery driven  by  steam,  concluded  he  would  try 
steaming  himself,  and  at  it  he  went,  but  instead  of 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  9 

using  wood  and  water,  he  used  the  essence  of  corn 
rye,  and  the  first  thing  he  knew,  he  was  rolling  on 
the  floor,  trying  to  keep  himself  from  falling  as  he 
thought.  So  he  gave  it  up  as  no  go,  for  man  from 
his  peculiar  organization,  cannot  be  driven  by 
steam  like  a  water  craft.  Dined  on  board,  had  a 
fine  dinner,  with  the  exception  of  a  very  ancient 
turkey  Gobbler,  which  I  declined  masticating  on 
account  of  his  age,  having  a  great  reverence  for 
old  age.  Left  S.  about  6  and  arrived  at  Paducah 
a  little  after  7,  when  the  rain  recommenced  at  a 
most  tremendous  rate.  Thunder  loud  and  light- 
ning vivid,  in  fact  the  elements  appeared  to  be 
in  great  commotion;  each  separate  cloud  muster- 
ing all  its  forces  for  a  general  battle  against  some- 
thing or  somebody.  Saw  H.D.  and  family  on 
their  way  to  Texas  on  board.  Another  company 
from  East  Tennessee  on  board  for  California,  so 
that  we  now  have  about  40  men  on  our  craft,  all 
bound  for  the  land  of  Gold.  Wonder  how  many 
will  reach  there?  and  how  many  will  ever  return 
to  their  homes?  Can't  tell,  so  shan't  try.  Left 
P — at  8,  read  awhile,  then  to  my  couch. 
APRIL  22nd.  On  arising  this  morning  found 
our  gallant  steamer  ploughing  her  way  down  the 
mighty  Mississippi,  the  daddy  of  all  rivers,  and 
upon  whose  broad  bosom  the  produce  of  its  great 
valley  is  wafted  to  market.  Passed  New  Madrid, 
and  stopped  10  miles  below  to  wood,  when  I  went 


lo  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

ashore,  and  in  strolling  about  found  myself  before 
a  good  looking  house,  when  the  notion  came  into 
my  head  that  I  would  go  in,  and  see  the  folks — 

did  so and  found  a  nice  widow,  fat — fair — 

and — forty,  and  a  young  lady.  Talked  some 
with  them  about  farming,  marrying,  etc.,  when 
the  steamboat  bell  rang  to  call  all  stragglers 
aboard.  So  bidding  them  adieu  hastened  on 
board,  and  off  we  went  at  a  glorious  rate,  the 
old  America  splitting  the  water,  and  dashing  the 
foam  and  spray  right  and  left. 
APRIL  23rd.  Arose  this  morning  from  a  re- 
freshing night's  sleep,  found  ourselves  somewhere, 
at  first  did  not  know  where,  but  on  examination 
found  that  we  were  going  down  stream  which  sat- 
isfied me.  The  Great  River  rising  very  fast,  and 
from  appearances  bids  fair  to  inundate  the  coun- 
try. After  breakfast,  lighted  a  cigar  and  went 
on  top  to  smoke  and  think,  and  as  I  sat  watching 
the  curling  wreaths  of  smoke  that  floated  off  in 
fantastic  forms  from  my  cigar,  the  resemblance 
between  the  great  river  we  were  on  and  the  stream 
of  life  struck  me  very  forcibly.  .,Upon  its  waters 
is  seen  human  life  in  all  its  varieties,  the  gilded 
rascal,  and  the  honest  man,  the  man  of  money 
and  the  man  of  want,  the  rich  and  the  poor,  the 
gaudily  dressed  woman  seeking  new  pleasures, 
and  the  woman  whose  paled  face  and  careworn 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  il 

countenance  denoted  sufferings  intense,  all,  all 
are  seen  upon  this  great  Creek.     So  with   the 

Stream  of  Life all  are  hurrying  on  to  that 

precipice  from  which  none  can  escape. 

Weather,  cold  and  damp,  enough  to  give  a 
man  the  blues,  which  we  prevent  by  reading,  talk- 
ing and  card  playing.  Had  a  game  of  whist  with 
Mr.  K.  and  Lady  and  Dr.  W.,  got  beat,  then  read 
a  novel  by  Bulwer,  called  Night  and  Morning, 
in  which  money  is  shown  to  be  the  one  thing  need- 
ful in  this  world.     Phew !  knew  that  long  ago. 

Vegetation  is  forward  here  and  everything 
gives  evidence  of  abundance  this  season,  at  this 
particular  time  and  place;  the  birds  are  caroling 
their  gayest  notes,  as  if  welcoming  the  old  dame 
nature  with  her  mantle  of  green.  And  thus  the 
day  ends,  and  is  numbered  with  things  that  were, 

and,  and I'm  a  day  older  if  no  wiser. 

APRIL  24th.  This  morning  upon  rising  found 
the  boat  still;  enquired  the  cause,  and  found  she 
was  wooding.  Off  again  pretty  soon,  and  reached 
VIcksburg  about  i  P.  M.  Went  up  in  town,  and 
was  much  pleased  with  the  appearance  of  the 
City.  Some  fine  buildings  and  upon  the  whole  a 
neat  place.  The  Court  House  is  on  a  knoll,  and 
with  its  enclosed  yard  full  of  shrubs  and  flowers 
and  pretty  walks,  presented  a  fine  appearance. 
Citizens  generally  good  looking,  and  a  pleasure 


12  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

loving  people.  Left  V.  at  4,  and  passed  Natchez 
about  1 2  at  night,  then  swallowed  some  wine  and 
went  to  roost. 

APRIL  25th.  Got  up  to  breakfast,  and  as  usual 
for  the  last  few  days,  found  the  boat  at  a  wood 
pile  at  the  mouth  of  Red  river.  Steamer  St. 
Louis  passed  up,  new  and  fine  looking  boat.  Ducks, 
geese  and  gulls  plentiful.  Still  raining  and  river 
rising.  Passed  Baton  Rouge  in  the  afternoon — 
— very  pretty  place  situated  on  the  highest  land 
between  Natchez  and  N.  O.  The  State  House 
an  odd  but  splendid  looking  building.  The  farms, 
all  verdant  with  sugar  cane,  which  could  be 
plainly  seen  from  the  hurricane  deck  of  our  boat, 
in  fact  the  river  being  high,  we  were  higher  than 
the  banks,  the  land  and  even  some  of  the  houses, 
and  were  it  not  for  the  levees,  the  greater  part  of 
the  farms  on  the  river  this  low  down  would  now 
be  under  water.  This  being  our  last  night  on  the 
Steamer  America  we  had  some  rare  sport,  eating, 
drinking  and  spinning  yarns;  champagne  bottles 
were  emptied,  songs  sung,  and  all  the  appurte- 
nances of  a  carnival  meeting  carried  on,  until  the 
wee  short  hours  a'yant  the  twals  warned  us  to 
bed.  E.K.A.S.  of  Nashville,  and  some  others 
were  in  for  it,  and  went  it. 

APRIL  26th.  Awoke  this  morning  with  a  most 
excruciating  cephalalgia,  the  fruits  of  my  last 
night's  indiscretion,  but  those  who  dance  must  pay 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea                  13 
the  piper,  consequently  as  Foote  would  say 


"  'tis  of  no  consequence."  Feeling  so  very  bad  I 
remained  on  board,  whilst  some  of  our  company 
went  up  to  'F^ayette,  to  see  the  steamship  "Fal- 
con", and  procure  tickets  for  Chagres  on  her,  but 
not  being  able  to  do  so  engaged  passage  on  the 
Schooner  "Chanan"  Ducey,  Master,  at  $45  for 
cabin  passage  on  her  to  Chagres.  They  returned, 
and  so  reported,  when  we  had  our  baggage  taken 
on  board  of  her.  Feeling  very  unwell  I  went  to 
the  Hotel,  took  a  room  and  went  to  bed,  where 
I  remained  all  day.  After  tea  took  a  stroll  to 
see  the  sights  of  the  Crescent  City:  went  to  the 
"Placide  Variety  Theatre",  and  saw  "Old  Heads 
and  Young  Hearts"  performed.  Mrs.  Black 
playing  the  part  of  Lady  Pompion.  Then  to  my 
room  and  to  bed. 

APRIL  27th.  Was  awakened  this  morning  by 
the  'noise  and  confusion'  of  a  City.  At  first,  was 
inclined  to  the  belief  that  something  unusual  had 
happened,  but  recollecting  where  I  was,  concluded 
all  was  right,  so  donning  my  apparel  went  down 
to  breakfast,  and  having  satisfied  the  inner  man. 
lighted  a  cigar,  and  started  out.  Seeing  an  omni- 
bus passing  pretty  full,  I  concluded  to  take  a  ride, 
as  there  is  always  room  in  such  vehicles  for  one 
or  two  more,  no  matter  how  many  be  in  it.  Got 
in  and  rode  as  far  as  that  bus  went,  which  was 
to  the  depot  of  the  N.O.  and  Lake  Pontchartrain 


14  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

Rail  Road.  Walked  around  through  the  market 
in  that  part  of  the  City  and  saw  a  good  many 
things,  that  I  knew,  and  a  good  many  more  that 
I  did  not.  As  there  was  a  considerable  crowd 
gathered  about  a  little  box  or  office  I  pushed  my- 
self in  amongst  them  to  learn  what  was  going  on, 
and  found  that  they  were  all  procuring  tickets  to 
go  to  the  Lake  on  the  cars,  so  thinking  I  might 
find,  see  or  hear  something  I'd  never  seen  or 
heard  before,  handed  in  my  quarter  and  re- 
ceived a  small  bit  of  blue  pasteboard,  which 
entitled  me  to  a  seat  in  the  car,  so  taking 
a  favorable  location  I  seated  myself  to  ex- 
amine matters  in  general,  and  folks  in  par- 
ticular. There  were  all  sorts  of  persons,  the 
rich  planter  with  his  open  countenance  and  rubi- 
cund visage,  indicative  of  high  living,  the  Span- 
iard with  dark  eye  and  mustache,  the  fun  loving 
son  of  the  Emerald  Isle,  the  woolly  headed  de- 
scendant of  Cato  and  Cuajo's,  and  also  some  of 
the  fair  sex  all  mingled  together,  seeking  plea- 
sure, and  attending  to  business.  Whilst  so  en- 
gaged the  engine  gave  a  snort  and  a  whistle  and 
off  we  went.  A  short  half  hour  ride  brought  us 
to  the  stopping  place,  when  getting  out,  I  com- 
menced a  survey  of  my  whereabouts.  As  the 
season  had  not  opened  there  was  very  little  go- 
ing on,  so  after  looking  at  the  gardens,  the  houses, 
lake,  and  taking  a  bit  of  the  finny  and  shelly  tribe, 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  15 

I  left,  impressed  with  the  belief  that  a  person, 
could  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  be  kept  quite 
busy  out  there  thro  the  day,  by  fishing  and  other 
amusements,  and  at  night  by  fighting  the  mos- 
quitoes and  the  flies.  Returning  to  the  City  I  spent 
the  afternoon  seeing  the  public  buildings,  parks, 
etc.  some  of  which  are  quite  ornamental.  After 
tea,  went  to  the  theatre,  where  the  new  "Grand 
Romantic  Operatic  Extravagant  Entertainment" 
called  "Camaralzman"  or  the  "Peri  who  loved 
the  Prince"  was  performed;  Mrs.  Howard,  Miss 
Melville  and  Mrs.  Johnson  playing  the  principal 
characters,  which  according  to  my  notions  they 
done  up  brown.  Some  good  dancing  and  farce 
wound  up  the  evening  entertainment,  when  I 
sought  my  couch,  and  was  soon  in  a  happy  state 
of  forgetfulness. 

APRIL  28th.  On  examining  my  "Phiz"  this 
morning  was  a  little  astonished  at  its  appearance, 
for  it  looked  as  tho  I  had  been  engaged  in  a 
fight,  which  to  the  best  of  my  recollection  was 
not  so;  and  upon  inquiring  of  my  neighbors  found 
that  they  had  slept  but  little  on  account  of  the 
mosquitoes  presenting  so  many  bills  against  them 
and  insisting  on  immediate  payment,  and  as  I 
had  paid  no  attention  to  their  importunities  they 
had  satisfied  themselves  in  their  own  way.  After 
breakfast  went  up  to  Fayette,  thence  by  car  to 
CarroUton,  where  we  spent  a  few  pleasant  hours 


l6  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

in  examining  the  gardens  and  pleasure  grounds, 
and  occasionally  imbibing  something  cooling  and 
refreshing.  There  was  a  great  variety  of  flowers 
and  exotic  plants  and  fruits  blooming  and  ripen- 
ing on  every  side,  but  as  they  were  more  orna- 
mental than  useful  we  did  not  touch  or  taste.  Re- 
turning to  the  City,  visited  some  of  the  churches, 
it  being  Sunday,  and  saw  some  of  the  Catholic 
ceremonies.  In  the  afternoon  took,  a  walk  to 
see  the  natives,  as  they  were  all  out  in  their  holi- 
day  attire English,   French,   Spanish,   Dutch 

and  darkies,  all  going  to  and  fro.  On  Congo 
Square  saw  fiddling  and  dancing,  Sunday  tho  it 
was,  which  struck  me  as  being  rather  irreligious, 
if  nothing  worse.  Saw  some  pretty  Creoles  with 
their  slender  forms,  dark  eyes.  After  tea  wrote 
some  epistles  and  then  havdng  made  preparations 
against  the  depredators  of  the  night  before,  re- 
tired. 

APRIL  29th.  Arose  at  7  and  breakfasted.  As 
this  was  the  last  day  in  N.O.  determined  to  travel 
around  smartly;  so  we  started  out  and  meeting 
with  some  of  the  Gallatin  Company,  we  pro- 
ceeded to  LaFayette,  and  examined  the  steamship 
Falcon,  from  thence  back  to  the  steamboat 
America  where  I  saw  some  acquaintances;  talked 
awhile  with  them,  about  California  in  particular 
and  some  other  things  in  general such  as  wind, 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  17 

water,  wine  and  "wimen."  Wrote  some  letters 
and  left  them  on  board  when  bidding  adieu  to  all; 
left  to  see  the  O.P'.'s  procession,  which  was  the 
grandest  affair  of  the  kind  I  ever  saw.  Their  Re- 
galia glittering  in  the  sun,  while  their  steady  tread, 
to  the  sound  of  soul  stirring  music,  was  a  feast 
to  the  organs,  optic  and  auricular.  Their  ark 
on  a  magnificent  car,  drawn  by  four  white  char- 
gers, gave  one  a  fair  representation  of  Oriental 
splendor  and  magnificence.  After  looking  and 
promenading  about  considerable,  which  creates 
both  heat  and  thirst,  we  dropped  into  one  of  those 
cooling  saloons  and  spent  an  agreeable  hour,  over 
our  cups.  Going  out  on  Canal  street  met  one  of 
nature's  loveliest  flowers,  tripping  along  the  ad- 
mired of  all  beholders.  I  caught  her  eye  and 
such  an  eye — 

"Like  the  starlight  of  the  soft  midnight. 
So  darkly  beautiful,  so  deeply  bright." 

I  gazed  again,    and   again,   and   thought no 

matter  what;  she  had 

"Sweet,  pouting  lips,  whose  colour  mocks  the  rose. 

Rich,  ripe  and  teeming  with  the  dew  of  bliss 

The   flower   of   love's    forbidden   fruit,   which 

grows 
Insidiously,  to  tempt  us  with  a  kiss." 


l8  Notes  oti  Land  and  Sea 

The  form  of  a  sylph,  and  just  then  a  cab  rattling 

close  by broke  the  spell,  and  left  me  free  to 

wander  on. 

In  a  multitude  of  counsel  there  is  wisdom,  so 
we  all  consulted  together,  about  what  should  be 
purchased  in  the  way  of  dainties  and  stomachics 
before  going  to  sea,  and  having  consulted  what  to 
get,  we  did  so  and  went  aboard.  (I  purchased  a 
few  medicines,  instruments  etc.)  At  3  P.  M.  we 
cast  loose  from  the  wharf,  and  pulled  out  from 
among  the  shipping,  when  the  towboat  De  Soto 
carried  us  down  to  the  landing  opposite  the  U.S. 
Mint  and  left  us  there  until  8,  when  we  again 
fastened  on  to  the  towboat  M.  along  with  two 
Spanish  brigs  and  a  schooner,  and  off  we  started 
for  Chagres.  The  night  being  very  dark,  we 
could  see  nothing  of  the  beautiful  farms  along 
the  river,  nor  the  ground  where  Old  Hickory  did 
the  first  Packenhams.  So  taking  it  for  granted  that 
the  old  battle  grounds.  Fort  Jackson  and  Phillip 

were  in  Statu  quo 1  sought  my  bunk,  wearied 

out  with  the  fatigue  of  the  day. 
APRIL  30th.  Awoke  up  and  found  from  the 
motion  of  our  Schooner  that  we  were  going  ahead, 
so  going  up  on  deck  saw  that  the  towboat  was 
dragging  us  along  fine  (the  two  brigs  and  the 
charran)  the  little  schooner  that  started  with 
us  was  nowhere  to  be  seen,  having  broke  loose 
sometime  in  the  night.     Breakfast  over  I  sat  on 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  19 

the  deck  gazing  at  the  receding  lands  of  U.  S. 
for  we  were  soon  to  bid  adieu  to  them  for  awhile, 
and  to  some  of  us  probably  forever.  9  A.M.  the 
T.B.  left  us,  and  carried  the  two  brigs  out  to 
sea,  we  remaining  in  the  river  to  fill  water  casks, 
tighten  riggings  etc.  There  is  quite  a  town  at 
the  mouth  of  this  pass  (the  southwest)  where  the 
Pilots  for  the  River  and  Bar  live  with  their  fami- 
lies. The  country  on  each  side  is  low  and  marshy, 
unfit  for  agricultural  pursuits  of  any  character. 
At  1 1  A.M.  all  things  being  ready,  the  anchor  was 
raised  with  a  Ye  Oh  He,  the  bow  turned  towards 
the  Gulf  and  with  just  wind  enough  to  fill  the 
sails  we  glided  out  into  the  dark  blue  sea.  Pass- 
ing over  the  bar  we  soon  felt  the  peculiar  heave 
of  old  ocean  and  saw  the  unbounded  expanse  of 
its  unceasing  waters.     There  came  the  cry 

"The  sea!  the  sea!  the  open  sea! 
The  blue,  the  fresh,  the  ever  free; 
Without  a  mark,  without  a  bound. 
It  runneth  the  earth's  wide  region  round; 
It  plays  with  the  clouds;  it  mocks  the  sky, 
Or  like  a  cradled  creature  lies." 

Our  passengers  numbering  60  or  more  were 
from  nearly  all  parts  of  the  United  States,  and 
some  from  France,  Switzerland  and  Germany. 
There  was  one  old  lady a  Swiss on  board 


20  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

amongst  the  number,  and  as  the  greater  part  of  us 
had  never  been  to  sea  before,  we  were  delighted 
with  the  prospect.  The  water  near  the  shore  has 
a  greenish  appearance,  but  as  we  receded  from 
land,  the  colour  gradually  changed,  until  it  as- 
sumed that  deep  dark  blue  tint,  about  which  poets 
write  and  sing.  One  o'clock  was  our  dinner  hour 
and  not  eating  much  breakfast,  I  felt  as  tho'  I 
could  make  ample  amends,  but  just  as  we  were 
sitting  down  to  table,  a  squall  came  up,  the  ship 
gave  a  lurch,  and  all  my  appetite  was  gone;  for 
then  came  the  indescribable  sensation,  called  sea 
sickness.  I  rushed  up  on  deck  to  catch  the  fresh 
air,  which  revived  considerably,  and  thought  no 
more  of  dinner  that  day.  In  the  afternoon  amused 
myself  watching  the  other  passengers,  some  of 
whom  were  very  sick,  and  were  cascading  beauti- 
fully. Saw  large  schools  of  Porpoises  rolling,  tum- 
bling and  sporting  in  their  native  element,  also 
a  large  number  of  the  "Nautilus",  a  soft  pulpy 
looking  affair  floating  about  apparently  without 
end  or  aim.  They  were  an  odd  looking  affair, 
and  put  me  in  mind  of  an  old  Lady's  night  cap 
more  than  anything  else  I  could  think  of  at  that 
time.  Two  ships  in  sight  and  with  their  sails 
all  white  and  full,  looked  really  beautiful.  Our 
course  after  clearing  the  bar  was  sou'east.  By 
this   time    nearly    all    the    passengers   were    sick. 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  21 

casting  up  accounts,  and  a  Tar  in  passing  us  would 
occasionally  illuminate  his  Phiz  at  our  expense. 
I  laughed  at  those  who  were  sickest  until  my  turn 
came  around,  when  some  one  else  could  and  did 
laugh  at  me.  And  now  as  evening  Shades  ap- 
peared I  enjoyed  the  finest  sight  I  had  yet  seen, 
"Sunset  at  Sea".  Old  Sol  gradually  sunk  to  rest, 
calm,  peaceful  and  serene,  looking  like  a  great 
ball  of  fire  "about  to  be  put  out  as  it  entered 
the  water".  After  partaking  slightly  of  supper, 
I  stretched  myself  on  deck,  to  enjoy  the  delicious 
and  cooling  sea  breeze,  and  watched  the  stars — 
— those  windows  of  heaven;  as  they  one  by  one 
peeped  out  from  the  departing  rays  of  old  King 
Sol.  Out,  out  they  came,  until  the  whole  heavens 
were  thickly  studied  "with  those  Isles  of  light" 
when  upon  looking  down  into  the  dark,  blue  sea, 
it  appeared  as  if  we  were  gliding  along  Thr'  and 
o'er  another  heaven,  all  bright  with  stars  like 
the  one  above  us : — 

"For  every  wave,  with  dimpled  face, 
That  leap'd  upon  the  air. 
Had  caught  a  star  in  its  embrace. 
And  held  it  trembling  there." 

The  moon  came  rising  up  out  of  the  water  (as 
the  Baptist  would  say)  which  completed  the  pic- 
ture of  all  things  lovely  to  be  seen  to  night,  and 


2  2  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

I  laid  me  down  to  sleep  for  the  first  time  out 
of  Uncle  Sam's  dominions. 
WEDNESDAY,  MAY  ist,  1850.  Upon  go- 
ing on  deck  this  morning  I  strained  my  gaze  in 
all  directions  to  see  if  there  was  any  dirt  to  be 
seen,  but  none  appearing,  I  felt  for  the  first  time 
since  leaving  home  a  feeling  of  desolation  come 
o'er  me.  This  soon  gave  place  tho'  to  other 
feelings,  as,  bustling  active  life,  on  a  small  scale 
it's  true,  began  to  manifest  itself  around  me.  Two 
sails  in  sight  this  morning,  the  same  that  came 
out  from  N.  O.  with  us,  all  bound  for  different 
havens.  One  of  our  passengers,  Vinsant  from 
Monroe  County,  Tenn.,  very  sick,  something  like 
cholera.  Dr.  R.  who  was  in  his  company  from 
the  same  county,  waiting  on  him,  and  at  his  re- 
quest I  saw  him  with  Dr.  C.  We  found  him  cold, 
pulseless  and  collapsed,  with  all  appearances  of 
a  speedy  dissolution  taking  place.  1  little  thought 
my  prophesy  would  be  so  speedily  fulfilled,  that 
some  of  us  on  board  had  seen  land  for  the  last 
time;  yet,  so  it  was,   for  a  few  minutes  before 

3  P.M.  V.  breathed  his  last.  Man  proposes, 
but  God  disposes.  He  left  a  wife  and  several 
children  at  home  to  seek  his  fortune  in  the  far 
west,  but  a  few  short  days  had  elapsed,  and  now 
he's  gone  to  that  land  from  whence  no  one  re- 
turns; leaving  his  family  to  struggle  through  life 
as  best  they  can.     May  He  who  tempers  the  wind 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  23 

to  the  shorn  lamb,  guide  and  protect  them  through 
life's  vale  of  tears. 

At  noon  all  traces  of  the  two  ships  seen  in  the 
morning  had  disappeared,  and  nothing  could  be 
seen  but  the  blue  sky  above,  and  the  blue  sea 
below.  About  sunset,  the  remains  of  Vinsant 
were  committed  to  the  deep,   the  first  burial  at 

sea  I  had  ever  seen and,  oh,  may  it  be  the 

last.  Wrapt  in  his  blanket  and  some  canvass,  he 
was  laid  on  a  plank,  weights  attached  to  his  feet, 
the  funeral  service  performed  by  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Cunningham,  and  friend  and  companion  of  his; 
when  the  plank  was  raised,  and  the  mortal  re- 
mains given  to  the  deep  blue  waters.  A  plunge, 
a  few  bubbles  and  all  was  o'er.  The  waters  closed 
and  regained  their  smoothness,  as  tho'  the  taber- 
nacle of  an  immortal  spirit  had  never  ruffled  its 
surface. 

A  gloom  was  cast  over  all,  and  but  little  was 
said  the  remainder  of  the  evening,  each  one  re- 
tiring  silent    to    rest,    thinking   of of    what, 

can't  tell  for  the  human  mind  is  an  unfathom- 
able mystery. 

MAY  2nd — Up. at  six  and  saw  a  sail  bound  in»- 
Saw  flying  fish  in  abundance.  They  rise  from 
the  water  generally  on  a  wave,  and  fly  with  the 
wind  as  long  as  their  fins  remain  damp,  but  fall 
as  soon  as  they  become  dry.  Wind  fair  in  the 
forenoon,  but  towards  noon  fell  off,  and  left  us 


24  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

nearly  becalmed.  My  seasickness  continues  to 
grow  worse,  tho'  the  most  of  the  passengers  are 
recovering. 

MAY  3rd.  Nothing  new,  but  very  sick,  some 
fever,  unable  to  go  on  deck,  which  is  very  dis- 
agreeable, as  our  cabin  is  small;  and  hot  sun 
o'er  head.  Crawled  up  on  deck  after  sundown. 
MAY  4th.  Several  squalls  today  which  increase 
of  my  suffering  as  the  Hatches  were  fastened  down 
tight  and  nearly  suffocated  me.  Wind  variable 
and  light. 

MAY  5th.  Was  but  a  repetition  of  day  before, 
and  was  altogether  about  as  unpleasant  a  Sab- 
bath as  I  ever  spent,  or  wish  to. 
MAY  6th.  Same  as  preceeding  days  with  ex- 
ception of  a  Dolphin  which  the  Capt.  hauled 
aboard,  that  caused  a  little  excitement  among  us, 
as  but  few  of  us  had  ever  seen  one  before.  Dur- 
ing the  process  of  dying  its  skin  assumed  all  the 
tints  of  the  rainbow. 

MAY  7th.  Hot,  hot,  very  hot;  today  we  entered 
the  Torrid  Zone,  or  rather  the  Horrid  one,  for 
the  heat  is  almost  insupportable.  The  fitful  airs 
throughout  the  day  Indicated  the  near  vicinity  of 
land,  while  a  few  small  birds,  "Mother  Carey's" 
chickens  would  occasionally  flutter  around,  and 
light  among  the  rigging. 

MAY  8th.  Sick  and  tired  of  sea  a'ready,  and 
half  way  believe  those  fellows  who  sigh  and  sing 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  25 

for  "A  life  on  the  ocean  wave,  a  home  on  the 
briny  deep",  etc.,  were  pretty  confounded  tight 
when  they  said  so,  if  not  they  differ  from  me  con- 
siderable.    Water  very   bad,    thick   and   muddy, 

bad  enough  for  a  well  person  and  a 

sight  too  bad  for  a  sick  one  if  they  could  get 
better.  Have  eaten  nothing  for  six  days  and 
feel  less  like  it  now  than  ever.  This  afternoon 
we  saw  the  coast  of  Cuba.  Low  sand  hills,  with 
an  occasional  headland  was  all  that  could  be 
seen. 

MAY  9th.  The  coast  of  Cuba  in  sight  this  morn- 
ing. Winds  contrary  and  light,  becalmed  nearly 
all  day.  One  of  the  passengers  caught  a  fish 
today  called  a  Grouper,  the  flesh  of  which  was 
very  good  to  those  that  were  well  enough  to  eat, 

but  for  myself 1  feel  as  little  like  eating  as 

if  it  was  unnecessary  so  to  do. 
MAY  loth.  Brig  in  sight  this  morning  for 
several  hours,  as  was  Cape  San  Antonio,  a  bold 
and  high  land  jutting  out  into  the  sea.  Winds 
light  and  as  contrary  as  a  cross  feminine;  hot 
hotter,  hottest  enough  to  drive  a  sick-un  crazy. 
Saw  6  or  7  sail  during  the  day,  standing  N-N.E. 
sailing  beautifully,  while  we  were  tacking  con- 
stantly and  scarcely  made  a  knot  an  hour  in  the 
right  direction.  About  sunset  saw  'Cape  Cur- 
rents' as  the  day  ended  and  left  us  wallow- 
ing about  in  the  trough  of  a  rolling  sea.     Coral 


26  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

could  be  seen  frequently  to  day,  whenever  the 
vessel  was  in  soundings. 

MAY  iith.  During  the  night  a  good  breeze 
sprung  up,  and  our  craft  walked  through  the 
waters  "like  a  thing  of  life."  My  health  better 
today  than  since  I  started  on  the  Gulf.  Passed 
in  full  view  of  the  Isle  of  Pines,  rendered  famous 
as  being  the  home  of  Pirates  years  agone.  To- 
wards noon  wind  died  away  as  usual,  and  left 
us  becalmed.  Walked  on  deck  about  sunset  and 
saw  Cape  de  Cruise.  About  eight  bells  wind 
freshened  up,  and  blew  us  back  all  we  made  dur- 
ing the  day.  Passengers  talking  about  drawing 
lots  to  find  the  Jonah,  as  some  thought  there  must 
be  one  aboard. 

MAY  1 2th.  Met  a  steamer  about  12  last  night 
but  was  too  far  off  to  make  her  out.  10  A.M. 
saw  a  Spanish  man-of-war,  on  the  lookout  for 
Lopez  and  all  who  were  assisting  the  revolution- 
izers.  She  showed  the  colors  of  old  Spain,  and 
our  Capt.  returned  the  compliment  by  throwing 
to  the  breeze  the  "Star  Spangled  Banner".  Hot 
sun  and  light  winds,  made  another  (to  me)  un- 
comfortable Sabbath.  Afternoon  saw  five  sails 
inward  bound  from  their  course. 
MAY  13th.  Health  of  passengers  improving. 
My  own  better  than  since  leaving  N.O.  Slept 
well  last  night,  and  dreamed  of  home.  Methought 
I  was  back  among  friends,  but  the  morning  light 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  27 

dispelled  the  sweet  illusion,  and  found  me  on  the 
blue  waters  of  old  ocean,  so  I  broke  forth  and 
sung: 

"Here's  a  sigh  for  those  who  love  me. 
And  a  smile  for  those  who  hate; 
And  whatever  sky's  above  mc, 
Here's  a  heart  for  every  fate." 

Afternoon  the  mate  harpooned  a  porpoise, 
and  hauled  him  on  deck.  He  was  a  large  fellow 
about  200  pounds  weight,  and  had  more  brains 
than  some  men  I've  seen. 

MAY  14th.  Arose  early  and  enjoyed  the  luxury 
of  a  sea  bath,  then  made  a  hearty  breakfast  off 
the  porpoise  brains  and  meat.  Wind  fair  and 
fine  until  noon,  when  it  falls  off  and  leaves  us 
nearly  becalmed  beneath  a  tropical  sun.  Dined 
on  porpoise  meat  coarse  and  dark,  but  of  toler- 
able flavor.  Saw  two  sails  careening  onward. 
Steerage  passengers  petitioned  for  better  prov- 
ender, when  the  Capt.  ordered  the  steward  to  sup- 
ply them  according  to  requirements.  After  tea 
had  some  music,  songs  etc.  About  ten  heard  a 
young  Grampus  ablowing  alongside  of  us,  looked 
down  and  saw  the  outline  of  the  young  monster. 
Stretching  myself  out  on  the  poop  deck  I  mused 
on  many  things,  and  whilst  doing  so  fell  asleep. 
MAY  15  th.     Dull  day.     Not  wind  enough  stir- 


28  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

ring  to  disturb  a  lady's  curls.  Some  one  hooked 
a  shark,  but  he  cut  the  line  in  a  moment  and  was 
off.  Caught  a  kind  fish  and  pilot  fish;  the 
latter  always  go  with  and  ahead  of  sharks.  Capt. 
D.  says  he  never  experienced  such  calms  and 
head  winds  in  these  latitudes  before,  but  then  a 
Capt.  says  a  good  many  things  about  wind  and 
water  which  I  know  nothing  about.  Glad  when 
night  comes. 

MAY  1 6th.  Same  as  yesterday,  only  more  so. 
Hot,  very.  Passengers  getting  quarrelsome,  but 
as  yet  no  fights.  Day  ends  and  night  begins,  wish 
it  was  always  night. 

MAY  17th.  One  month  today  since  leaving 
home,  and  not  one  fourth  of  the  way  to  Califor- 
nia. Fine  breeze  this  morning  and  the  Charron 
going  finely.  Quite  a  school  of  dolphins  playing 
around  us.  Some  one  harpooned  one  but  he  got 
away.  At  noon  in  latitude  19:21  and  immedi- 
ately under  the  sun;  a  place  the  Captain  said  he'd 
never  been  before — tho'  he  had  been  on  the  Gulf 
many  years,  and  a  place  I  wish  not  to  be  in  again, 
if  it  is  as  hot  as  this  today.  Mate  harpooned 
a  dolphin,  and  landed  him  on  deck.  New  awn- 
ing this  afternoon.  Wind  light  and  fitful.  Land 
north  of  us. 

MAY  1 8th.  Cephalalgia  this  morning.  But 
little  wind  stirring  and  that  changeable   as  the 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  29 

smiles  of  a  coquette.  So  we  exist  through  the 
day  and  live   at  night. 

MAY  19th.  Another  Sabbath  on  sea,  and  with 
it  came  a  sail.  Little  Van,  a  passenger  from  N.O. 
lost  his  purse  overboard  with  all  his  cash.  A  con- 
tribution was  started  among  the  passengers  and 
$40  raised  and  given  to  him.  In  the  afternoon  a 
fine  breeze  which  revived  us  all  smartly.  I  have 
noticed  for  the  last  few  evenings  that  the  wind 
rises  a  little  later  every  day,  in  proportion  to  the 
rising  of  the  moon,  which  Is  said  by  some  to 
govern  the  winds  in  these  latitudes;  16:56  today 
at  noon. 

MAY  20th.  Indications  of  rain,  squally.  Wind 
from  N.E.  Rainbow  in  N.W.  looked  very  pret- 
ty. Seems  as  hot  as  ever.  Passengers  game, 
read,  laugh  and  talk  etc. 

MAY  2 1  St.  Some  cooler  this  morning  from  the 
rains  and  squalls  of  yesterday.  Clouds  piled  up 
all  around  this  morning  like  grim  old  fortresses 
of  the  feudal  times.  Noon  latitude  iy/2  and 
little  wind.  Porpoises  innumerable.  Time  drags 
heavily  and  slowly.  Sundown  the  winds  revived, 
the  clouds  dispersed,  and  we  sailed  on  "through 
cloudless  climes  and  starry  skies." 
MAY  22nd.  Birds  of  various  species  flying 
around  us  today,  there  being  some  of  the  Cayenne 
Islands  near  us,  tho'  not  in  sight.     My  health 


30  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

improving  and  appetite  voracious.  Latitude 
12:18.  Showery  and  squally.  Mate  spun  me  a 
yarn. 

MAY  23rd.  Up  at  daybreak  to  enjoy  the  cool  and 
bracing  sea  breeze,  and  luxuriate  in  a  bath.  Noon 
hot  and  calm.  Cry  of  land  this  evening,  which 
became  plainly  visible  before  dark,  and  by  moon- 
light the  mountains  of  New  Granada  were  dis- 
tinct to  the  eye  (divested  of  garments). 
MAY  24th.  Saw  the  coast  very  plain  this  mor- 
ning, and  with  a  stiff  breeze  we  ran  into  harbor  in 
gallant  style.  Then  came  the  hurry  and  bustle 
of  debarking.  Got  our  baggage  on  a  boat,  low- 
ered ourselves  into  the  same,  and  put  for  land. 
Sea  rough.  On  the  left  entering  the  mouth  of 
Chagres  River  stands  the  old  Spanish  fort,  jut- 
ting out  sufficient  to  command  the  whole  coast 
for  several  miles.  It  is  an  ancient  looking  piece 
of  work  with  port  towers,  and  all  the  ingredients 
of  a  warlike  place,  if  in  repair  and  properly  man- 
ned, but  now  gradually  crumbling  beneath  decay 
and  neglect. 

"Where   round  some   mouldering   tower   pale 

ivy  creeps, 
And  low  browed  rocks  hang  nodding  o'er  the 
deep." 

All  giving  evidence  of  the  impress  of  time.  I  did 
not  visit  as  my  company  were  anxious  to  proceed 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  31 

on  up  the  river  soon  as  possible.  A  little  higher 
up  the  river  stands  the  Mexican  Chagres,  built 
of  cane  stalks  and  palmettos,  with  a  few  stone 
houses.  On  the  right  where  we  landed  is  the  new 
American  Chagres,  nearly  as  large  as  the  other, 
and  doing  all  the  business.  Upon  landing  we 
were  saluted  with  a  most  distressing  din  made 
by  the  natives,  who  were  ready  and  willing  to 
take  us  up  the  river  for  a  certain  number  of  pesos. 
Such  a  jargon  I  never  heard,  each  one  telling 
the  superior  advantages  of  his  boat  over  another 
one.  After  walking  about  seeing  the  sights,  and 
kicking  over  the  buzzards,  I  entered  a  house  and 
feeling  fatigued  called  for  and  obtained  some- 
thing to  refresh  wearied  nature.  We  at  length 
hired  a  boat  from  an  Irishman  F.,  stowed  away 
our  baggage  in  it,  jumped  in,  and  started  up  the 
river  Chagres,  sick  and  tired  of  the  naked  na- 
tives and  their  lingo,  the  hot  sun  and  the  generally 
filthy  town  of  Chagres.     Some  of  our  company 

L went  in  another  boat,  ours  not  being  large 

enough  to  carry  us  all  and  our  baggage.  We  were 
the  first  to  start  but  soon  had  the  mortification 
to  see  several  boats  pass  us,  as  ours  was  manned 
by  U.S.  darkies,  and  they  did  not  understand  boat- 
ing like  the  natives.  The  wind  was  refreshing 
and  for  the  first  few  miles,  we  travelled  along 
delightfully,  gazing  at  the  beautiful  scenery  on 
each  side  of  us.    The  growth  was  rank  and  luxuri- 


32  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

ant,  consisting  of  trees  and  flowers,  new  and 
strange  to  me;  occasionally  we  would  catch  a 
glimpse  of  an  orange  grove,  richly  laden  with  its 
luscious  fruit,  while  from  the  top  of  a  cocoanut 
tree,  we  would  hear  the  chattering  and  see  the 
antics  of  numerous  monkeys.  Lying  on  the  bank 
and  on  logs,  the  rough  skin  alligator  would  be 
seen  at  full  length  taking  his  siesta  in  the  rays 
of  old  Sol.  Fish  innumerable  were  sporting  all 
around  us,  and  the  birds  of  rare  and  beautiful 
plumage  were  regaling  us  with  the  most  delightful 
serenades.  Altogether  the  scene  was  beautiful, 
tho'  strange.  About  sunset  we  stopped  at  an 
Indian  town,  but  which  the  Americans  have  bap- 
tised Newtown,  where  we  cooked  some  of  the 
provisions  we  had  with  us,  ate  them,  and  after 
looking  into  the  houses  of  the  natives,  "to  see 
and  be  seen",  we  took  boat  and  proceeded  up 
the  river  by  moonlight  until  1 1  o'clock,  when 
we  came  up  with  our  companions.  Having  ob- 
tained a  miserable  cup  of  coffee,  we  rolled  our 
blankets  around  us  and  stretching  out  on  the  sand 
were  soon  in  the  land  of  forgetfulness.  Sleeping 
as  sound  as  tho'  we  had  beds  of  down  to  rest  our 
wearied  limbs  upon. 

MAY  25th.  Getting  up  before  'de  brake  ob  day' 
we  got  breakfast  at  an  American's  tent,  (put 
up  lately  to  accommodate  the  travelling  public) 
aroused  our  boatmen,   and  commenced  paddling 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  33 

our  course  up  the  river  again.  As  our  boat  was 
clumsy,  our  boatmen  awkward,  one  or  two  of  us 
had  to  assist  in  paddling  to  keep  up  with  our 
companions;  this  with  a  very  hot  sun  was  very 
disagreeable,  and  we  resolved  to  change  our  ship 
the  first  opportunity,  which  did  not  occur  until 
night.  The  banks  became  higher  as  we  advanced 
up,  the  stream  narrower  and  swifter,  so  that  in 
some  places  we  had  hard  work  to  get  along.  Ma- 
hogany trees  grew  large  and  in  great  quantities, 
and  are  used  by  the  natives  for  making  canoes 
etc.  Ours  was  dug  out  of  a  large  mahogany  tree. 
Tropical  fruits  of  all  kinds  hung  around  in  great 
profusion,  while  the  babboons,  monkeys  and 
birds  kept  up  an  incessant  noise,  the  one  harsh 
and  the  other  musical.  During  the  day  we  met 
many  returning,  some  from  the  gold  mines  and 
some  from  Panama,  who  had  become  disheartened 
and  tired  of  their  trip,  and  were  returning  to 
their  homes  and  friends  in  the  U.S.  Some  from 
California  were  returning  well  paid  for  their 
trials  and  dangers  they  had  encountered,  while 
others  were  scarcely  able  to  draw  themselves 
along;  out  of  money,  out  of  health  and  every- 
thing else,  that  a  sick  man  needs.  The  first  gave 
glowing  accounts  of  the  California  Mines,  while 

the  latter  d d  it  as  the  worst  country  under 

the  sun.  We  passed  several  little  villages  or 
ranches  through  the  day,  stopping  to  get  some- 


34  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

thing  to  eat  and  drink  from  the  natives  who  are 
a  lazy  and  mixed  set  of  human  beings.  Night 
coming  on  we  encamped  on  the  banks  (our  boat 
and  one  other)  where  we  fell  to  cooking  and  eat- 
ing, like  hungry  fellows.  After  tea,  or  rather 
after  meat  and  bread,  for  our  drink  was  river 
water,  we  hailed  a  boat  passing  down,  and  for 
$10  engaged  it  to  carry  us  up  Cruces  next  day, 
and  then  wrapping  our  blankets  around  us  we 
located  ourselves,  on  a  sandy  and  soft  spot,  to 
pass  the  dull  hours  of  night,  to  the  best  advan- 
tage. 

SUNDAY  26th.  MAY.  Up  early  and  after  par- 
taking of  a  hasty  and  hot  plate  of  soup,  boiled  on 
the  coal  and  ashes  we  jumped  aboard  and  once 
more  commenced  our  toilsome  trip  up  Chagres 
River.  Our  position  was  more  comfortable  this 
morning,  as  the  boat  was  larger  than  the  one 
we  had  before,  having  sent  the  former  back  with  a 
very  polite  request  that  the  owner  Mr.  F.  would 
go  to  the  devil  with  his  old  boat.  So  far  we  had 
found  that  the  whites  on  the  Isthmus  were  greater 
rascals  than  the  natives,  for  they  swindled  while 
the  latter  would  only  steal.  After  travelling 
a  few  miles  we  got  out  and  walked  some  distance 
when  coming  to  an  Indian  rancho,  I  went  in  and 
made  the  good  woman  of  the  house  understand 
that  we  wanted  something  to  eat  or  drink  or  both. 
She  looked  at  us  for  some  time,  gave  a  grunt  then 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  35 

proceeded  to  supply  our  wants,  which  she  did  by 
filling  a  calabash  of  milk  for  each  of  us,  and  set 
it  down  on  the  floor,  a  dirt  one,  for  our  accommo- 
dation. Seeing  some  dirty  young  uns  engaged  in 
the  same  business,  ^ve  pitched  into  it,  or  rather 
pitched  it  into  ourselves,  forked  over  the  pewter 
and  departed.  Our  boat  coming  up  we  crossed 
the  river,  and  started  on  foot  again.  We  pres- 
ently found  another  rancho,  and  walking  in  called 
for  something  to  eat  and  drink.  The  senorita 
who  was  in  attendance  informed  us  that  some 
other  Americanos  had  just  taken  the  last  she 
had. 

Some  of  our  company  left  the  boat  here  and 
walked  on  to  Gorgona ;  myself  and  R.  remained  to 
watch  the  baggage,  as  the  natives  are  prone  to 
appropriate  to  themselves  whatever  they  can, 
when  an  opportunity  offers.  We  walked  the 
greater  part  of  the  way,  as  the  river  was  narrow, 
shallow  and  rapid  in  a  great  many  places.  Our 
boatmen  would  plunge  in  the  water  whenever  they 
got  warm,  and  as  they  were  not  troubled  with  ap- 
parel of  any  kind  had  no  trouble  of  drying  or 
changing  garments.  During  our  tramp  along  the 
river's  bank,  we  crossed  some  rough  and  hilly 
country  with  thick  tangled  and  impenetrable  (to 
us)  undergrowth.  Saw  a  defunct  mule  and  a 
man's  hat,  whereupon  K  went  into  a  problematical 
discussion  as  to  whom  the  said  hat  belonged  to 


36  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

etc.,  finally  concluding  that  like  ourselves,  the 
owner  was  a  traveller  to  the  golden  regions  and 
had  there  been  murdered.  Reached  Gorgona 
about  I  P.M.  and  found  our  company  there,  rested 
and  refreshed  from  a  good  meal,  victuals  done 
up  American  fashion.  We  satisfied  the  inner 
man,  and  then  walked  out  to  view  the  town, 
which  consisted,  like  the  others  of  Spanish  origin, 
of  cane  palm  and  brush  houses,  with  a  church 
of  stone,  and  a  frame  house,  called  "The  French 
Hotel"  lately  built  by  some  aspiring  Yankee. 
Dogs,  naked  children  and  filthy  men  and  women 
abounded  while  occasionally  some  aristocratic  half 
dressed  critter  of  either  sex  would  indicate  the 
elite  of  the  town.  Then  again  some  pompous, 
sleek,  well-fed  looking  individual  with  broad  brim 
hat,  flowing  robes  and  sandals,  would  indicate  the 
priest.  Numbers  of  both  sexes  bathing  in  the 
river  in  full  view  of  the  town,  and  in  a  hot 
broiling  sun.  Resting  about  an  hour,  we  again 
started  up  the  river,  the  banks  of  which  were 
higher  and  steeper,  with  an  occasional  precipice 
standing  out  bold  and  steep  into  the  very  stream. 
Flowers  and  fruits  were  occasionally  seen,  tho' 
less  frequent  than  lower  down  the  river,  but  for 
their  loss  we  were  richly  compensated,  by  the 
incessant  and  melodious  warbling  of  innumerable 
birds.     Saw  several  eagles  soaring  aloft : 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  37 

"Bird  of  the  broad  and  sweeping  wing, 
Thy  home  is  high  in  heaven, 
Where  wide  the  storms  their  banners  fling, 
And  tempest  clouds  are  driven." 

Some  of  our  company  walking  concluded  to  try 
a  near  cut  to  Cruces,  but  after  wandering  about 
some  time  in  the  hills  and  hollows,  they  came  back 
to  the  river  some  distance  below  us,  when  we  had 
to  unload  and  send  the  boat  back  for  them,  as  they 

had  got  to  the  place "thus  far  shalt  thou  go, 

and  no  farther".  They  came  up  mad  with  them- 
selves and  the  boatman,  and  we  loaded  up  to  try 
the  now  narrow,  crooked,  shallow  and  swift 
stream  again.  Working  hard  all  hands  and  the 
cook,  we  reached  Cruces  about  9^  P.M.  wet,  hun- 
gry and  tired.     Got  some  supper,  when  some  of 

the  crowd  went  to  see  the  sights  of  the  town, 

a  Fandango  going  on but  feeling  wearied  I 

rolled  my  blankets  around  me,  sought  a  smooth 
piece  of  mother  earth,_5Jid  with  the  interminable 
jargon  of  the  natives  ringing  in  my  ears,  was  soon 
enjoying  the  blessing  of  sound  and  refreshing 
sleep.  "Nature's  sweet  restorer",  unconscious 
and  uncaring  for  all  around  me. 
MAY  27th.  Up  early  this  morning  preparing 
for  the  trip  to  Panama.  Cruces  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  stone  church  and  an  American  house, 
like   Gorgona   and   Chagres.      Natives   a   mixed 


38  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

multitude,  African,  Spanish  and  Indians;  hetero- 
geneous compound  of  human  nature.  It  was 
amusing  to  hear  and  see  our  boy  making  bargains 
with  them  to  convey  us  to  Pa.,  the  big  round 
oath  of  an  American  contrasting  with  the  sang 
froid  of  the  Spaniard's  "Caramba".  First  we 
bargained  with  an  American  to  transport  our 
baggage  across.  He  acted  the  rascal  as  nearly  all 
the  English  did  with  whom  we  had  any  deal- 
ings, and  refused  to  go.  We  next  engaged  with 
a  native  to  convey  our  luggage  across,  when  some 

D Yankee  told  him  not  to  go  unless  we 

gave  him  more  than  he  had  agreed  to  go  with  us 
for.  This  fooled  us  a  second  time,  we  commenced 
anew,  and  after  talking  a  good  deal,  swearing 
a  parcel,  and  loading  and  unloading  the  mules 
and  horses  several  times,  word  was  at  length 
given  to  forward  march.  The  natives  having 
seen  so  many  strangers  in  the  last  year  or  two, 
manifested  but  little  curiosity  at  our  appearance, 
for  which  we  made  ample  amends  by  professing 
great  curiosity  about  them  and  their  concerns 
generally.  We  would  go  into  their  houses,  scan 
the  contents,  ask  a  few  questions,  which  they  did 
not  understand,  and  leave.  Some  few  of  the  fe- 
males were  rather  good  looking,  fine  figures, 
magnificent  black  eyes,  and  small  feet  and  hands, 
the  last  a  desideratum,  that  all  Ladies  wish  for. 
Before  leaving  Cruces,  we  purchased  some  pro- 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  39 

visions  from  some  Yankee  grocer,  for  they  are 
here  and  everywhere  else,  where  there  is  a  dime 
to  be  made.  Passengers  who  had  100  pounds  or 
less  in  weight  hired  the  natives  to  carry  them  on 
their  backs,  which  they  could  do,  and  travel  as 
fast  as  I  could  walk  with  no  extra  weight  and 
sometimes  scarcely  any  garments.  As  we  were 
leaving  the  suburbs,  saw  a  number  of  the  natives 
around  a  corpse  with  long  wax  candles  burning; 
saying  a  mass  for  the  departed  spirit,  and  prob- 
ably praying  the  soul  out  of  purgatory.  Their 
noisy  clamor  was  almost  enough  to  raise  the  dead, 
if  such  a  thing  could  be  done. 

Now  at  length  we're  off  for  Pa.  God  knows 
when  we  will  come  back,  if  ever.  The  path  or 
road  led  off  into  a  dense  thicket  soon  after  leav- 
ing town,  with  occasionally  some  large  trees,  in- 
terspersed to  break  the  monotony  of  the  impene- 
trable chaparral.  We  soon  struck  the  mountains, 
our  course  being  E.  by  S.  but  owing  to  the  wind- 
ings of  our  mountain  path,  we  travelled  to  all 
points  of  the  compass.  Sometimes  on  the  top  and 
sides  of  the  mountains,  then  again  our  route  was 
in  the  deep  gorges  with  scarce  room  enough  for 
the  mules  with  their  packs  to  get  along.  Our 
guide  when  coming  to  such  places  would  hallo' 
until  the  hills  reverberated  to  give  notice  to  any 
who  might  be  meeting  us,  that  we  were  in  first, 
and  had  precedence;  for  if  two  parties  were  to 


40  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

meet  in  the  many  places,  the  one  nearest  the 
entrance  would  have  to  crawfish,  or  were  they  so 
disposed  a  Grant  and  McPherson  combat  might 
ensue,  with  this  difference,  that  whilst  McPher- 
son threw  his  adversary  over  and  down  a  preci- 
pice here  he  would  have  the  Herculaneum  task  of 
throwing  his  opponent  upwards  from  ten  to 
thirty  feet,  for  the  bluffs  were  frequently  that 
high.  But  owing  to  a  previous  understanding 
and  I  suppose  their  signs,  we  passed  through  all 
such  places  without  'let  or  hindrance'.  Birds  were 
numerous,  and  except  at  heat  of  day  beguiled 
our  tedious  march  by  their  melodious  melody. 
The  heat  in  those  gorges  was  intense,  as  not  a 
breath  of  air  could  be  felt,  this  with  a  scarcity 
of  water,  made  our  trip  anything  but  agreeable. 
3  P.M.  we  came  to  a  rancho  on  the  top  of  the 
highest  knob  we  had  yet  ascended  (we  had  been 
ascending  all  day)  when  our  muleteers  halted  and 
commenced  unloading  the  mules.  We  wished  to 
go  farther  but  all  our  threats  and  entreaties  were 
of  no  avail,  as  they  were  determined  to  stop.  Find- 
ing our  day's  journey  at  an  end  I  walked  in  the 
house  (if  such  a  thing  could  be  called  a  house) 
and  found  a  senorita  reclining  in  a  hammock 
leisurely  puffing  her  cigarette;  saluting  her  in  the 
best  manner  I  knew  how,  then  taking  off  my  boots 
and  hat,  I  threw  myself  into  an  unoccupied  ham- 
mock alongside  of  her  to  rest  my  wearied  limbs, 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  41 

and  take  a  survey  of  my  locality.  After  resting 
awhile  went  out  with  the  gun  and  shot  a  Pheasant 
or  something  very  much  resembling  one.  Game 
appeared  plentiful,  but  the  undergrowth  was  so 
thick  that  I  could  not  go  through  it  with  any 
comfort  or  dispatch,  so  came  back,  and  prepared 
supper  which  consisted  of  crackers  that  we  had 
with  us  and  a  cup  of  coffee  and  boiled  rice  which 
we  got  from  the  senorita  in  attendance.  After 
tea  we  spread  our  blankets  on  the  ground,  beneath 
a  shed,  and  prepared  to  spend  the  night  to  the 
best  advantage,  which  was  bad  enough  at  best, 
the  fleas  having  a  prior  claim  to  lodging  place. 
Finding  I  could  not  sleep  I  got  up  and  had  a 
long  talk  with  some  gentlemen  who  were  on  their 
way  home  from  California.  One  or  two  had  made 
money,  but  others  were  returning  with  scarce  a 
cent  and  that  great  boon  health  entirely  and 
irrevocably  destroyed.  Upon  comparing  notes 
with  some  from  Panama,  I  found  that  I  was  pass- 
ing this  night  on  the  backbone  of  America.  There 
were  some  returning  from  Panama  who  gave  a 
most  horrid  account  of  the  place,  the  sickness  and 
the  difficulty  in  getting  away  from  there,  the 
number  of  passengers  there  numbering  about 
3000,  and  steamers  and  sailing  vessels  scarce. 
With  all  their  conflicting  statements,  I  wrapt  my 
blanket  around  me,  and  was  soon  insensible  to 
them,  the  fleas,  mosquitoes  and  everything  else. 


42  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

MAY  28th.  Up  early  hurrying  our  packers  off, 
but  all  to  no  purpose,  as  they  had  their  own  way 
of  doing  business,  and  were  determined  to  follow 
it,  so  thinking  some  hard  things  about  them  (if 
I  didn't  say  them)  I  took  a  seat  and  waited  pa- 
tiently until  they  were  ready,  when  we  com- 
menced our  day's  journey.  Some  of  my  company 
had  started  early  to  have  some  breakfast  pre- 
pared for  us,  the  first  chance  which  I  found  and 
partook  of  about  11  A.M.  Our  roads  and  the 
country    about   us    as   yesterday,    only   more    so, 

rough,   rugged  and  crooked rocky,  hilly  and 

mountainous.  The  roads  were  cut  through  the 
mountains  many  long  years  ago  by  the  Spanish 
conquerors  of  the  country,  and  at  that  time  must 
have  been  an  immense  undertaking,  occupying 
weeks,  months  and  even  years.  The  cuts  and  hol- 
lows are  paved  with  round  stones,  which  are  now 
loose  and  rolling,  rendering  travelling  o'er  them 
both  difficult  and  dangerous.  The  woods  were 
vocal  with  the  songs  of  birds,  many  of  them 
possessing  rare  and  beautiful  plumage.  Lizards 
were  numerous,  and  some  of  large  size,  which  the 
natives  are  very  fond  of,  considering  them  great 
delicacies.  We  were  seldom  out  of  si^ht  of 
passengers,  the  road  being  literally  lined  with 
them  bound  for  the  Eldorado.  Many  were  re- 
turning from  Panama,  who  had  seen  enough  of 
the  elephant,  and  were  satisfied,  as  they  said  to 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  43 

go  home,  and  let  well  enough  alone;  while  others 
were  strapped  and  were  seeking  employment,  to 
sustain  life  until  a  lucky  breeze  should  waft  them 
home.  Stopping  occasionally  to  get  aqua,  we 
continued  on  until  about  i  P.M.  when,  our  guides, 
suddenly  halted  and  commenced  unpacking,  which 
they  did,  our  entreaties  and  threats  to  the  con- 
trary. Finding  that  we  had  to  yield  I  ate  a 
snack,  sought  a  shade  and  enjoyed  a  sound  sleep 
for  a  few  hours.  By  sundown  our  company  had 
increased  considerable,  many  stopping  here  to 
spend  the  night.  Saw  a  goodly  number  of  the 
natives,  heavy  laden,  packing  machinery  over  on 
their  heads,  backs  and  shoulders.  For  supper 
we  had  a  mess,  the  name  of  which  I  never  found 
out;  after  which  we  spent  an  hour  or  so  in  talk- 
ing of  the  past,  present  and  future;  then  settling 
ourselves  down  under  a  shanty,  10  by  12,  in 
which  there  were  eight  white  folks,  4  senoritas, 
as  many  men  (our  packers)  one-half  dozen  mu- 
chachos,  some  pigs,  dogs,  chickens  and  a  legion 
of  fleas,  we  attempted  to  sleep,  and  which  we 
finally  accomplished  from  sheer  exhaustion,  fight- 
ing the  mosquitoes  and  fleas. 
MAY  29th.  Arose  this  morning  unrefreshed  and 
partook  of  a  cup  of  good  coffee,  which  a  fellow 
traveller,  or  rather  a  woman  traveller  made  for 
us.  Our  caravan  being  in  readiness,  we  took  up 
the  line  of  march.     This  was  my  day  for  going 


44  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

ahead,  which  I  did  in  company  with  R —  stop- 
ping occasionally  to  water  and  rest  our  parched 
throats  and  weary  limbs.  The  country  changing 
some  little  in  geological  appearance  as  we  ap- 
proached the  Pacific.  Saw  many  tropical  fruits 
growing  in  rich  and  negligent  profusion;  oranges, 
dates,  pineapples  etc.  Resting  on  the  top  of  a 
high  hill  about  lo,  the  towers  of  Panama  were  in 
plain  view.  While  resting  here  in  the  shade 
nearly  sans  everything,  a  priest  in  his  long  black 
robes  passed  by  buttoned  up  to  the  chin,  walking 
as  if  for  a  sweat  or  a  wager.  Starting  again  we 
wound  around  the  hills  until  we  entered  the  su- 
burbs of  Panama,  consisting  of  remnants  of  old 
walls,  roofless,  dilapidated  and  tenantless  houses. 
The  road  for  a  few  miles  out  from  Panama  is 
wide  and  in  good  condition,  paved  and  McAdam- 
ized.  To  the  left  on  entering  is  seen  in  the  dis- 
tance a  few  of  the  ruins  of  ancient  Panama.  We 
saw  many  of  the  "Charran"  passengers  who  had 
beaten  us,  and  many  others  with  their  white  tents 
camped  in  the  environs  of  the  City.  Halting  until 
our  baggage  came  up  we  pushed  on  through  the 
crowds  of  Americans,  natives,  dogs  and  children 
until  we  came  to  the  market  Plaza,  when  we  called 
a  consultation  as  to  further  proceedings.  I  stop- 
ped to  see  Wilson  who  was  very  sick  with  the 
Panama  fever,  and  then  proceeded  into  the  City, 
which  we  entered  by  the  Gorgona  or  Cruces  gate, 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  45 

composed  of  heavy  stone  work  forming  an  arch 
supporting  a  cupola  in  which  hangs  the  Alarum 
bell  all  surrounded  by  a  moat,  now  filled  with  the 
crumbling  ruins  of  the  walls  and  houses.  Pro- 
ceeding to  the  New  England  Hotel,  we  unpacked 
our  caravans,  paid  off  our  guides  and  proceeded 
to  make  ourselves  as  comfortable  as  possible,  with 
soap,  water  and  clean  raiment,  as  our  tramping 
days  were  over  for  a  season.  Had  our  friends 
"tu  hum"  seen  us  before  this  process  was  com- 
plete, they  would  scarce  have  known  us,  so 
changed  were  we  with  long  beards  full  of  dirt, 
check  shirts  that  looked  as  if  they  and  water 
had  never  become  acquainted,  and  sun  burnt 
phizes.  In  fact  we  were  a  nice  looking  set  for 
a  small  tea  party.  After  satisfying  the  body 
corporal  we  sauntered  out  to  see  the  town,  its 
curiosities,  and  to  make  some  inquiries  about  our 
trip  to  California.  We  found  first  that  the  place 
was  crowded  with  travellers  to  the  land  of  Gold, 
there  being  about  2500  or  3000  waiting  for 
conveyance  to  leave  in.  Secondly,  we  found  that 
the  most  extravagant  prices  were  asked  for  tickets 
on  the  Steamers.  First  and  second  cabin  tickets 
selling  from  $600  to  $1000  and  steerage  from 
3  to  $500.  Speculators  were  making  money  by 
these  means,  and  the  owners  of  the  steamers  and 
vessels  were  said  to  be  through  their  agents  the 
principal  men  engaged  in  the  business.    We  found 


46  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

3rdly  that  several  sailing  vessels  were  up  for  San 
Francisco,  and  after  consulting  together  we  found 
that  from  the  state  of  our  finances,  it  was  ad- 
visable for  us  to  go  on  a  sailer;  first,  because 
what  steamers  were  there  were  full,  and  sec- 
ondly, it  was  uncertain  when  those  coming  round 
the  Horn  would  be  in,  and  thirdly,  the  sailing 
vessels'  prices  agreed  with  our  purses'  weight  best, 
and  so  we  concluded  to  try  a  sail  vessel,  tho  we 
were  awful  tired  of  the  C —  on  the  Gulf.  We 
returned  to  supper  soon  after  which  we  sought 
our  cots,  and  after  enduring  a  serenade  from  the 
mosquitoes  for  several  hours,  fell  asleep. 
MAY  30th.  Half  sick  this  morning  but  felt 
better  after  breakfast.  Walked  out  to  W  and 
found  him  very  bad,  high  fever  and  nearly  con- 
stant delirium,  brought  on  by  excessive  exercise 
in  crossing  the  isthmus,  and  exposure  to  the  burn- 
ing rays  of  a  tropical  sun.  Prescribed  and  left 
him.  Returning  to  town  engaged  a  room  from 
a  Spaniard  and  moved  our  effects  into  it;  the 
N.  E.  hotel  being  too  filthy  and  boisterous  to  suit 
us;  the  landlord  drank  and  quarrelling  all  the 
time.  Feeling  quite  unwell  I  drew  my  cot  be- 
tween the  doors  to  catch  what  air  was  passing 
and  laid  me  down  to  rest.  The  bells  of  all  the 
churches  kept  up  an  incessant  ringing,  this  being 
the  day  for  holding  the  festival  of  "Corpus 
Christi."     There  was  a  large  procession  headed 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  47 

by  the  Priests  over  whose  heads  was  carried  a 
silken  canopy,  supported  on  long  silver  rods;  then 
came  the  "young  angels,"  children  decked  out  with 
the  finest  fabrics  and  tinsel,  with  huge  wings  glit- 
tering in  the  sun.  Then  came  the  candle  bearers 
with  huge  silver  candlesticks  and  long  wax  can- 
dles giving  forth  a  faint  blaze  in  the  noonday 
sun.  Then  came  the  rag  end  and  bob  tail,  mak- 
ing a  procession  of  considerable  extent  and  show. 
Upon  whatever  street  the  procession  entered  the 
natives  might  be  seen  on  their  knees  with  un- 
covered heads,  while  the  American  would  stop 
and  respectfully  raise  his  beaver  until  the  priestly 
array  passed  by.  The  churches  are  numerous, 
but  only  a  few  appeared  to  be  used  at  present, 
the  balance  falling  into  decay  and  ruin.  The 
show  lasted  for  several  hours,  performing  some 
ceremony  at  all  the  principal  cathedrals.  In  the 
afternoon  the  other  three  boys  went  out  to  the 
office  of  the  French  ship  "Cachalot"  and  pur- 
chased tickets  for  themselves  and  Mr.  C — going 
on  the  bark  "Sarah."  The  "Cachalot"  is  a  large 
ship  and  very  filthy;  to  sail  on  the  5th  June. 
Tickets  $150.00.  Walking  out  I  saw  some  of 
the  priests  who  were  officiating  this  morning  go- 
ing to  the  cock  pit  with  a  chicken  under  each  arm, 
decked  off  in  gaudy  colors  and  long,  sharp  blade 
like  gaffs,  all,  Saint  and  sinner  hurrying  on  to  the 
scene  of  their  festive  rejoicing — cock-fighting — in 


4?  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

which  brutal  sport  they  take  great  delight.  The 
Priests  bet  higher,  swear  louder  and  yell  more 
than  any  others,  manifesting  great  joy  or  anger 
at  the  success  or  defeat  of  their  favorites.  In- 
deed gambling  of  every  species  prevails;  a  priest 
in  his  robe  sometimes  being  seen  on  the  street 
playing  cards. 

MAY  31st.  Scarce  able  to  walk  this  morn- 
ing. Symptoms  of  the  Panama  fever  quite  prom- 
inent, and  of  which  disease  numbers  of  Ameri- 
cans are  dying,  principally  northern  men.  A  great 
cause  of  so  much  sickness  is  too  free  indulgence 
in  the  tropical  fruits,  intemperance  and  exposure 
to  the  burning  rays  of  a  tropical  sun.  The  so- 
called  Panama  fever,  need  not  be  dreaded  if  a 
person  is  temperate,  both  in  diet  and  drink.  A 
glass  of  Porter  ale  or  claret  if  necessary,  which 
I  believe  is  not  often  the  case,  nothing  stronger 
can  be  of  any  advantage,  and  may  do  harm.  Saw 
a  man  today  who  was  in  the  melee  which  oc- 
cured  here  a  few  days  ago.  A  native  boy  stole 
something  from  an  American,  and  was  taken  by 
them  into  custody.  The  boy  being  alarmed  and 
not  understanding  them,  as  to  what  would  be  done 
to  him,  told  some  of  his  friends  that  the  Ameri- 
cans were  going  to  hang  him,  which  made  them 
attempt  a  rescue,  and  from  a  really  small  affair 
at  first  quite  a  riot  was  created.  The  natives 
were  all  enraged  and  arming  themselves  with  all 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  49 

manner  of  murderous  weapons  rushed  on  the 
Americans,  who  with  a  few  guns  and  Colts  re- 
volvers, Bowie  knives  and  dirks  defended  them- 
selves, with  true  Yankee  courage.  The  tumult 
was  not  quelled  until  some  2  or  3  Americans  and 
some  4  or  5  natives  were  killed,  when  by  the  com- 
bined exertion  of  the  American  Consul  and  the 
Governor,  quiet  was  restored;  but  for  several 
days  after  the  sullen  and  gloomy  brow  of  the 
Spaniards  told  plainly  that  a  volcano  was  slum- 
bering beneath  their  smooth  exterior,  while  the 
Americans'  watchful  eye,  guarded  manner,  told 
as  plainly  that  a  second  outbreak  would  be  at- 
tended with  more  direful  consequences  then  the 
first.  About  noon  every  day  a  Muchacho  (boy) 
comes  to  our  room  with  rice  nicely  boiled  and 
seasoned  with  spices,  sugar,  etc.  This  is  our 
lunch  and  is  much  preferable  in  this  climate  to 
meats,  either  salt  or  fresh,  to  a  person  not  ac- 
climated and  not  labouring.  The  church  bell  go- 
ing all  day.  Walking  out  in  the  afternoon  I  met 
some  good  looking  females.  They  are  generally 
finely  formed  and  with  the  true  principle  of 
woman's  love  for  show  and  parade,  decked  them- 
selves out  in  gaudy  attire  and  ornaments.  We  fre- 
quently see  them  with  a  large  amount  of  jewelry 
on  their  persons,  gold  and  silver  coin,  and  hun- 
dreds of  dollars  being  frequently  seen  around  the 
neck  of  a  dark  eyed  seiiorita.     The  Priests  that 


50  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

we  meet  are  the  best  and  most  intelligent  looking 
of  the  natives,  and  with  their  black  silk  gowns 
and  stockings,  their  queer  shaped  three-cornered 
and  rather  soldier-like  looking  sombreros  pre- 
sent quite  a  strange  and  unique  appearance. 
JUNE  ist.  1850.  Feeling  better  this  morn- 
ing, went  down  to  the  beach  and  had  a  most  de- 
lightful bath.  I  capered  about  among  the  break- 
ers, and  "played  with  old  oceans'  hoary  locks" 
for  the  first  time  on  the  western  side  of  N.  A. 
Found  Wilson  some  better.  Called  with  Mix  to 
see  a  young  Dr.  Ringold  of  Ala.,  who  was  pas- 
senger on  the  bark  Susan,  which  left  this  port 
57  days  ago  for  San  Francisco.  When  out  about 
20  days  the  Captain  became  alarmed  in  regard 
to  his  supplies,  fearing  that  his  passengers  might 
suffer  before  reaching  their  desired  haven.  The 
result  was  insanity — on  the  Captain's  part — 
who  finally  cut  his  throat,  and  threw  himself 
overboard,  before  any  person  could  assist  him, 
or  prevent  the  accomplishment  of  the  fatal  act.  , 
The  ist  mate  then  taking  command  returned  to 
this  port  with  nearly  half  of  the  crew  and  pas- 
sengers on  the  sick  list.  The  Dr.  is  quite  unwell 
and  very  low  spirited,  so  giving  him  some  advice 
interspersed  with  anecdotes,  and  a  little  medicine, 
left  him  to  the  care  of  his  nurse,  who  is  a  Spanish 
senorita,  and  in  appearance  quite  devoted  to  him. 
Examined  more  particularly  today  the  citizens 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  51 

and  town  of  Panama.  There  appear  to  be  but 
few  families  of  the  pure  Castilian  blood  in  this 
country.  Most  of  them  being  a  mongrel  race, 
and  are  deficient  in  the  higher  moral  attributes. 
Their  separation  from  old  Spain  appears  to  have 
inflicted  a  death  blow  on  their  energies  and  the 
resources  of  the  country;  for  since  all  enterprise 
has  languished.  Slothful  and  averse  to  exertion 
they  see  nature  with  a  prodigal  hand,  scattering 
around  her  rich  and  precious  fruits,  which  they 
are  content  to  pluck  and  eat.  The  country  in  the 
vicinity  of  Panama,  and  nearly  all  in  crossing  the 
Isthmus,  might  with  a  little  well  expended  labor, 
be  made  to  bloom  and  bear  all  the  luxuries  that 
the  people  could  use,  as  it  is — an  uncultivated 
wilderness,  it  yields  sufficient  to  satisfy  them  with 
little  or  no  toil.  The  sudden  influx  of  so  many 
strangers  for  the  last  few  years  has  put  the  na- 
tives to  their  wits'  end  to  supply  their  require- 
ments, and,  of  course,  has  enhanced  the  value  of 
everything  in  proportionate  degrees.  Articles 
that  were  worth  rials  now  command  dollars.  Of 
the  markets  here,  little  that  is  commendatory  can 
be  said.  All  (except  the  fruits  which  are  numer- 
ous and  tempting)  have  a  greasy,  hot  and  dirty 
look,  while  the  half  nude  native  saleswomen  look 
as  filthy  and  unattractive  as  their  vendibles.  Meat 
beef  and  pork  is  cut  into  thin  strips,  and  sold  by 
the  yard,  while  before  the  Americans  came  here 


52  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

calicos  and  muslins  were  sold  by  the  pound.  We 
see  numerous  fishes  and  some  oysters,  but  the 
latter  look  too  soft  and  milky  to  tempt  my  appe- 
tite. Yams  similar  in  appearance  tho'  more 
farinaceous  than  ours  are  substituted  and  are 
abundant.  They  grow  quite  large  and  I  think 
could  be  successfully  cultivated  in  some  of  the 
Southern  states  of  the  U.  S. 

Among  all  the  filth  and  unattractiveness  of 
Panama  there  are  still  some  places  where  a  per- 
son can  retire  and  enjoy  an  hour  or  two  of  pleas- 
ant forgetfulness.  The  town  is  surrounded  on 
all  sides  by  a  wall,  now  in  many  places  in  ruins, 
yet  on  the  batting  which  extends  out  south  and 
west  it  is  pleasant  of  a  morning  or  evening  to  seat 
oneself  against  an  old  cannon  and  gaze  out  o'er 
the  wide  expanse  of  the  deep  blue  waters,  watch- 
ing the  myriads  of  birds  as  they  wheel  and  circle 
around  and  above  us.  The  Pelican  with  his  capa- 
cious throat  distended  to  its  utmost  stretch  with 
the  finny  tribe  which  they  pounce  upon  sometimes 
burying  themselves  under  the  water,  and  carrying 
off  to  digest  at  leisure.  The  sea's  breeze  about  sun- 
set is  delightful  and  invigorating,  and  to  watch 
the  breakers  as  they  come  rolling  in  and  see  the 
numerous  small  sails  constantly  plying  from  point 
to  point  and  to  see  the  stately  ships  riding  at 
anchor — motionless  except  with  the  gentle  swell 
of  old  ocean's  heaving  bosom,  and  the  long,  un- 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  53 

wleldy  looking  steamer  still  as  the  tomb,  were  all 
calculated  to  impress  one  favourably  after  escap- 
ing the  heat  of  a  tropical  sun,  and  the  "noise  and 
confusion"  of  the  mixed  City  of  Panama.  Some 
bold  rocky  islands  lay  off  from  one-half  to  one  or 
two  miles  from  the  City,  and  one  towering  bold 
old  fellow  looked  as  if  he  was  standing  sentry  to 
guard  the  town  from  the  approach  of  an  enemy 
in  that  direction.  Requiescat  in  pace — old  Fel. 
JUNE  2nd.  Sunday — they  tell  me — but  from 
the  appearance  of  things  it  resembles  that  day 
less  than  ever  I  saw  before.  Gambling  houses 
(and  they  are  numerous)  are  crowded  more  to- 
day than  any  other,  from  the  fact  that  the 
natives  consider  it  only  a  holiday,  and  conse- 
quently have  more  gambling  and  fandangoes  on 
this  day  than  any  other,  while  a  great  many 
Americans — going  upon  the  motto  of  doing  like 
Romans  and  Buffalos  when  they  are  in  Rome  or 
Buffalo,  are  even  worse  than  the  natives.  Met 
with  Major  P.  of  Tennessee,  who  is  on  his  way 
to  the  golden  land  with  some  darkies  to  dig  out 
his  pile.  Hope  he  may  be  successful.  The  Major 
goes  on  the  bark  Sarah.  Found  some  tolerable 
good  water  today  at  an  old  convent  by  going  to 
a  window  and  knocking.  Someone  inside  gave  a 
grunt,  to  signify  you  were  heard,  then  by  plac- 
ing your  mouth  to  a  liole,  say  "aqua" ;  a  wheel 
would  soon  turn  and  a  small  stone  jar  would  be 


54  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

placed  before  you.  Drink  and  be  off  for  no  en- 
treaty would  procure  you  a  sight  of  the  givers  or 
draw  them  into  a  conversation.  Queer  wasn't  it? 
Entered  a  cafe  kept  by  a  good  looking  senorita 
and  obtained  some  of  the  best  coffee  I  had  found 
in  the  place.  Church  bells  kept  up  an  incessant 
ringing  all  day,  and  if  such  a  thing  could  be  done, 
these  people  would  come  as  nigh  ringing  them- 
selves into  heaven  as  any  other  I  ever  met  with. 
But  if  the  Protestant  religion  be  the  correct  one, 
they  are  as  far  from  the  true  route  to  the  new  Jeru- 
salem, as  some  of  us  sinners  who  make  no  pre- 
tensions to  Christianity.  And  in  fact  for  their 
abominable  practices  the  fons  et  origo,  of  the 
Catholic  church  has  long  ceased  to  regard  them 
as  part  and  parcel  of  the  true  Roman  faith.  Thus 
thrown  off  by  the  parent  church,  and  governed 
and  conducted  by  a  corrupt  and  designing  priest- 
hood, no  wonder  we  should  be  excited  in  our  mind 
at  their — to  us — numerous  and  glaring  inconsist- 
encies and  unholy  practices.  Their  religion  like 
their  country  seems  old  and  appears  to  be  gradu- 
ally gliding  away  from  them.  In  fact  the  im- 
press of  decay  is  visibly  marked  on  all  I  have  yet 
seen  belonging  to  this  country.  The  present  City 
of  Panama,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  its  wall 
and  moat  is  gradually  falling  under  the  gnawing 
and  relentless  tooth  of  time,  and  without  a  re- 
vivifying influence  may  be  expected  ere  many  years 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  55 

to  be  a  mass  of  ruins,  like  the  ancient  City  of 
Panama,  which  stands  some  6  or  8  miles  from  the 
site  of  the  present  City.  That  was  once  a  flour- 
ishing place,  but  in  the  17th  century  Morgan  the 
celebrated  Irish  pirate  appeared  before  it,  and 
slaying  and  driving  its  inhabitants  before  him 
plundered  and  then  burned  the  City.  A  few  crum- 
bling ruins  alone  and  solitary  remaining  to  tell  its 
locality  and  sad  fate.  The  citizens  who  escaped 
the  destroyer's  hand,  fled  to  the  hills  and  moun- 
tains, and  when  all  was  quiet  ventured  forth  to 
the  place  where  I  now  write  from,  and  com- 
menced to  build  another  town  and  other  houses, 
preferring  to  commence  anew  in  a  strange  place, 
rather  than  return  to  witness  the  desolation  of 
their  once  thriving  and  peaceful  homes.  In  proc- 
ess of  time  the  Spanish  government  extended  to 
them  a  helping  hand,  and  built  the  present  City, 
though  from  its  antiquated  appearance  it  might 
have  been  built  before  the  flood.  There  are  some 
churches  whose  dilapidated  appearance  is  quite 
venerable.  The  walls,  towers  and  belfry  covered 
with  ivy  and  moss  and  evergreen  plants  look, 
quite  picturesque,  and  though  service  of  some 
kind  is  performed  every  day,  yet,  so  numerous 
are  the  cathedrals  that  many  are  never  used,  and 
are  consequently  going  the  way  of  all  the 
"y-earth."  The  streets  are  mostly  paved,  some 
with  flat — others  with  round  stones,  a  duty  that 


S6  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

is  performed  by  the  chain-gangs,  and  are  gen- 
erally narrow.  The  pavements  are  narrow  barely 
admitting  two  abreast  to  walk  together.  The 
houses  are  principally  of  stone  covered  with  tile, 
and  nearly  all  have  a  veranda  stretching  over  the 
narrow  footway,  which  adds  to  the  sombre  ap- 
pearance of  the  place,  though  they  are  a  pleasant 
refuge  from  the  heat  of  the  noon-day  sun,  and 
afford  a  slight  but  appreciable  shelter  to  the 
pedestrian  from  the  drenching  rains  which  from 
May  or  June  until  December  deluge  the  land.  The 
rainy  season  is  even  now  on  hand  and  every  day 
we  have  heavy  showers,  alternated  with  the  hot- 
test sun  ever  felt.  Numbers  of  the  houses  are  now 
occupied  by  Americans,  some  as  stores,  but  the  ma- 
jority as  hotels  and  restaurants,  while  not  a  few, 
are  used  as  gambling  houses,  or  in  fashionable 
parlance — Saloons — for  drinking  and  playing. 
Some  of  the  houses  are  undergoing  repairs,  pre- 
paratory to  being  occupied  as  business  places  by 
the  Yankees,  as  the  natives  call  all  from  the  U.  S. 
The  citizens  from  the  City  wound  up  their  holiday 
— Sunday  as  it  is — by  a  grand  chicken  fight,  such 
a  scene.  The  priests  were  foremost  and  loudest 
in  the  sport  and  noise,  while  the  men,  women  and 
children,  were  to  me,  as  so  many  geese.  To  wind 
up  the  day  complete,  as  one  of  noise  and  con- 
fusion, mine  auditory  apparatus  was  saluted  about 
bedtime  with  the  most  horrid  clatter  I  ever  heard. 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  57 

Upon  enquiring  the  cause  of  such  a  noisy  effect, 
it  turned  out  to  be  a  serenade  by  the  Americans, 
Germans,  etc.,  for  a  new  married  couple.  It  ap- 
pears that  a  German  enroute  for  California  met 
a  seiiorita  in  Panama  who  had  a  pile  sufficient  to 
keep  herself  and  someone  else  from  want,  during 
life,  and  fancying  the  Dutchman,  made  it  known. 
Upon  this  hint,  he  spake  and  after  a  short  court- 
ship married  her,  when  some  of  his  acquaintances 
getting  wind  of  it  concluded  to  serenade  them  with 
horns,  pans  and  drums  and  other  noisy  instru- 
ments. The  musicians  could  only  be  stopped  by 
the  promise  of  $ioo,  when  all  became  quiet,  and 
I  soon  was  in  the  land  of  dreams. 
JUNE  3rd.  Awoke  this  morning  and  found  it 
raining  very  hard,  and  continued  on  until  noon, 
when  old  Sol  showed  himself  in  a  way  that  made 
shade  preferable.  Quite  a  number  of  passengers 
arrived  in  town  today,  and  the  cry  is  "still  they 
come."  This  constant  rush  to  the  land  of  gold, 
is  to  the  ticket  speculators  here  a  real  harvest, 
and  they  profit  by  it,  buying  all  the  tickets  on  a 
steamer  as  soon  as  the  office  is  opened,  and  retail- 
ing them  to  newcomers  at  a  most  exorbitant  pre- 
mium. Many  who  arrived  here  this  season  are 
unprepared  to  pay  these  prices,  and  some  of  them 
start  back  home,  while  others  in  the  vain  hope  of 
doubling  their  money  go  to  a  gambling  house  and 
lose  all,  thus  rendering  themselves  unable  to  go 


58  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

or  even  return,  until  they  can  make  a  raise,  either 
in  the  way  by  which  they  lost,  or  by  working, 
wages  ranging  high  for  all  sorts  of  labor.  The 
natives  do  but  little  work,  except  the  packing,  pre- 
ferring to  loll  about,  smoke,  gamble,  etc.  Saw 
W.  this  afternoon — better,  tho'  very  feeble.  Re- 
turning I  met  the  Governor's  two  daughters  on 
horseback  accompanied  by  one  of  the  G.  staff. 
The  ladies  were  fairer  and  better  looking  than 
any  I  had  seen  on  the  Isthmus,  and  with  their 
neat  riding  dresses  and  bewitching  little  Panama 
hats,  looked  very  pretty,  decidedly  pretty,  and  I 
thought  if  ever  I  committed  matrimony  with  a 
seiiorita,  she  must  be  pretty — fair — rich  and  a 
good  rider,  like  the  daughters  of  His  Excellency, 
the  Governor  of  Panama.  Called  to  see  Dr.  R. 
who  was  worse,  slight  delirium  and  some  fever. 
Prescribed  for  him  and  left  him  in  the  hands  of  his 
nurse,  who  appears  to  be  very  kind  and  devoted. 
If  I  should  be  so  unfortunate  as  to  be  sick,  wish  I 
may  have  as  good  and  tender  a  nurse  as  she  is,  the' 
they  can  talk  together  but  little,  yet,  she  is  ever 
ready  and  willing  to  wait  on  him  and  administer 
those  thousand  little  attentions  which  woman 
alone  is  capable  of  doing. 

"  Pain  and  anguish  wring  the  brow 
A  ministering  angel  thou." 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  59 

Took  coffee  with  my  kind  hostess  and  returned 
to  my  room,  when  I  met  Capt.  E,  who  came  from 
N.  O.  The  Captain  is  a  clever  Tar  and  is  going 
up  on  the  Bark  Lota.  Saw  quite  a  crowd  follow 
a  man  and  two  ladies  horseback  to  the  Panama 
exchange,  and  going  there  myself  saw  the  cele- 
brated Tom  Hyer.  His  arrival  appeared  to  create 
considerable  excitement  among  some  of  the  folk, 
but  for  my  part  I  could  see  nothing  very  attractive 
in  him.  He  is  a  large  stout  looking  man  and  from 
appearances  could  floor  a  fellow,  and  drink  a 
pint  of  whiskey  as  soon  as  the  next  one.  As  this 
was  my  last  day  in  Panama,  packed  up  my  traps 
in  travelling  order,  and  then  sought  my  cot, 
tired  of  the  place  and  its  inhabitants. 
JUNE  4th.  Learned  this  morning  that  we 
would  not  get  off  before  tomorrow,  so  walked 
down  to  see  my  coffee  woman,  got  some  very  good 
coffee,  toast  and  eggs;  then  went  out  to  see  W. 
found  him  improving  and  more  cheerful  than  he 
had  ever  been  in  some  time.  C.  bid  us  adieu,  also 
Man  and  P.  and  went  on  board  the  bark  Sarah. 
Dr.  R.  about  the  same  as  yesterday,  so  I  sat  down 
by  him,  and  talked  to  him  of  his  home  friends  and 
relatives,  of  his  mother,  father,  brothers  and 
sisters.  Gave  him  a  little  medicine,  and  a  good 
deal  of  advice,  cheered  his  drooping  spirits  until 
he  seemed  better,  and  then  left  him,  with  the  hope 


6o  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

of  meeting  him  in  the  Eldorado  of  the  West.  Con- 
siderable sickness  among  the  emigrants,  and  more 
especially  among  those  from  the  north  and  east, 
and  every  day  or  so  consigns  some  poor  fellow  to 
old  mother  earth,  who  a  few  short  days  ago  had 
left  his  family  and  friends  in  the  flush  of  health 
and  strength,  with  golden  anticipations  for  the 
next  few  months  or  mayhap  years  to  come.  "Man 
proposes,  but  God  disposes,"  and  this  should 
teach  us  "There's  a  divinity  shapes  our  ends, 
rough  hew  them  how  we  will." 

Visited  some  more  of  the  old  churches  today, 
and  though  they  have  a  rough  unseemly  exterior 
they  are  internally  decorated  with  paintings, 
drapes,  gold  and  silver,  that  gives  an  imposing 
appearance  upon  first  entering  them.  The  booths, 
bazaars,  shops,  hotels  and  gambling  saloons,  all 
busy  in  their  various  ways.  Saw  some  serioras 
beating  something,  as  it  appeared  to  me  most  un- 
mercifully, but  going  to  them  found  them  washing 
clothes,  which  they  did  by  first  wetting  them,  then 
throwing  them  on  the  rocks,  either  stamped  them 
with  their  feet  or  mashed  them  with  clubs,  stones, 
etc.  The  sight  caused  me  a  sigh  as  I  thought  of 
the  fate  of  some  of  my  buttons,  having  given  out 
some  washing  to  be  done  the  day  before.  N.  C. 
and  so  ended  another  day. 

JUNE     5th.       After     breakfasting     we     com- 
menced the  preparation  of  going  on  board,  but 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  6i 

before  starting  purchased  some  tin  plates,  knives, 
forks,  spoons,  etc.,  tin  pans,  etc.,  as  we  learned 
that  every  one  was  to  furnish  his  own  eating 
utensils.  So  laying  in  the  above  articles  with  a 
box  of  claret,  some  oranges,  limes,  sugar,  tea  and 
other  necessary  articles  for  one's  health  and  con- 
venience on  ship  board,  we  bid  adieu  for  a  time 
to  terra  firma,  and  jumping  into  a  sail  boat,  we 
were  soon  alongside  of  the  ship  Cachalot.  And 
here  what  a  scene — trunks,  boxes,  carpet  bags — 
indiscriminately  piled  or  scattered  about  o'er  deck 
in  confusion  beautiful  to  behold,  while  each  one  in- 
tent on  securing  his  own,  would  occasionally  pro- 
duce a  collision  that  called  forth  oaths  in  abund- 
ance. I  and  my  friends  secured  our  bunks  and 
stowed  away  our  luggage  then  taking  a  position 
where  we  could  see  as  well  as  hear  what  was  going 
on  enjoyed  a  few  hearty  laughs,  unmindful  of,  and 
uncaring  for  all  the  discomforts  which  appear- 
ances told  would  be  our  fate  for  our  uncertain  sea 
voyage. 

As  the  dinner  hour  approached  and  feeling 
kinder  voracious  I  drew  out  the  "bill  of  fare" 
which  we  had  procured  at  the  office  in  Panama, 
read  it  over.    It  was  as  follows : 

Sunday:     Beef,  potatoes  and  pudding. 

Monday:     Pork,  beans,  rice  and  molasses. 

Tues'y:     Beef,  pork  and  potatoes. 

Wed'y:     Ham,  pork  and  beans. 


62  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

Thur'y:     Beef,  rice  and  molasses. 

Fri'y:     Pork,  beans  and  potatoes. 

Sat'y:     Beef,  rice  and  molasses. 

This  with  coffee  in  the  morning,  tea  in  the 
evening,  with  plenty  of  good  bread,  which  the 
agent  assured  us  we  should  have,  presented  a 
tolerable  bill  of  fare  for  the  voyage,  as  we  were 
all  well  aware  that  good  provender  was  scarce  on 
this  side  of  this  Isthmus.  But  oh!  when  the  dinner 
hour  arrived,  we  were  doomed  to  the  saddest  dis- 
appointment we  had  yet  experienced.  The  ist 
cook  a  Peruvian — was  of  all  things  filthy,  the 
filthiest.  There  was  no  such  thing  as  a  table,  in 
lieu  of  which  he  used  the  deck,  where  with  one 
hand  he  held  a  chunk  of  meat  down  and  with  the 
other  cut  off  pieces  as  each  one  called  for  it.  The 
potatoes  were  scattered  around  him,  and  in 
the  rush,  noise  and  confusion  were  pretty  well 
mashed  and  richly  seasoned  with  dirt.  The  bread 
was  hard  and  old,  tho'  rich,  as  we  soon  found 
upon  breaking  it,  there  appearing  any  quantity 
of  nice  looking  fat  worms  and  bugs.  For  that 
meal  I  had  but  little  relish,  and  Shakespeare's 
lines  of: 

"  The  world  is  a  well  furnished  table 
Where  guests  are  promiscuously  set 
Where  all  fare  as  well  as  they  are  able 
And  scramble  for  what  they  can  get," 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  63 

appeared  to  me  to  be  true  in  one  respect,  the 
scrambling  part;  and  not  so  true  in  the  other — 
the  well  furnished  table  part.  No  one  who  ever 
saw  such  a  scene  can  form  any  idea  of  it,  and 
as  I  would  wish  never  to  see  such  again  I'll  let 
the  matter  be  for  the  present.  The  passengers 
number  about  165 — five  of  whom  are  females. 
One  of  whom  has  a  bunk  close  alongside,  ha,  ha. 
We  have  men  from  nearly  every  state  in  the 
union,  while  some  are  from  different  parts  of 
Europe,  Asia,  Africa  and  South  America,  and 
during  the  hurry  and  bustle  preparatory  to  start- 
ing many  were  the  strange  sounds  that  sounded 
on  my  Tympanum.  Oh !  for  oblivion  until  this 
voyage  be  over.  For  supper  we  had  tea,  made 
on  the  Homeopathic  principle,  one  leaf  of  the  herb 
to  a  pint  of  water,  and  that  sweetened  with 
molasses,  and  some  of  the  pork  that  we  ought  to 
have  eaten  at  dinner.  Many  were  the  hard  things 
said  to  the  cook  and  steward,  while  the  Captain 
came  in  for  no  small  share  of  huge  round  oaths. 
Complaints  were  loud  and  bitter,  and  the  Captain 
was  so  frightened  at  the  savage  aspect  of  some  of 
the  passengers  that  he  scarcely  knew  what  to  do. 
The  C — was  a  Frenchman,  the  two  mates  too, 
while  the  crew  consisted  of  sailors  from  nearly  all 
countries,  and  as  he  (Capt.)  could  not  under- 
stand the  American  language,  but  saw  from  the 
savage  countenances  and  violent  gesticulations  of 


64  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

the  passengers  that  something  was  wrong,  it  was 
laughable  to  behold  his  troubled  looking  Phiz. 
After  promising  better  in  future,  he  gave  orders 
for  getting  under  way,  which  diverted  the  minds 
of  all  from  the  scenes  just  exhibited.  The  anchor 
was  hauled  in  with  a  heave,  oh,  he;  the  sails  un- 
furled and  once  more  we  were  afloat  upon  the 
briny  deep.  And  as  the  lights  from  the  City 
gradually  receded  from  view,  and  the  shores  be- 
came indistinct  I  could  not  help  feeling  that  prob- 
ably some  on  board  would  never  again  see  land. 
Who  it  would  be  was  to  us  unrevealed,  but  the 
thought  was  a  sad  one,  that  some  one  of  us  had 
probably  taken  the  last  long  lingering  look  upon 
our  mother  earth.  Shaking  off  these  feelings  I 
fell  to  thinking  of  home,  then  of  the  scenes 
through  which  I  had  lately  passed,  and  last  upon 
my  present  condition,  until  the  most  of  the  pas- 
sengers had  retired,  and  left  me  alone.  Our  sleep- 
ing apartment  consisted  of  near  the  whole  of  the 
ship  between  decks  with  a  row  of  shelves  on  each 
side,  and  two  rows  in  the  middle  of  double  ones. 
Going  down  it  appeared  that  everybody  was  talk- 
ing at  the  same  time,  the  air  was  close  and  suffo- 
cating; so  taking  my  blanket  went  up  on  deck  and 
stretched  myself  out  on  the  hatch  covering  to 
sleep,  which  was  sound,  notwithstanding  the  un- 
comfortableness  of  my  situation,  until  a  rain  came 
on  and  drove  me  below,  where  1  finished  the  night 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  65 

in  anything  but  a  comfortable  way,  and  so  ended 
the  first  night  on  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
THURSDAY,  JUNE  6th.  Was  called  up  be- 
fore  day  to  see  a  passenger  W — from  Wilson 
County,  Tenn.,  who  was  very  sick.  Severe  at- 
tacks of  Cholera  Morbus.  Gave  him  medicine 
and  attention  until  he  was  relieved.  With  day- 
light up  came  the  passengers,  and  the  old  ship 
soon  presented  a  lively  scene,  all  hands  preparing 
for  breakfast,  at  least  all  that  were  not  sick;  and 
as  the  sea  was  smooth  and  all  had  given  it  a 
trial  before  very  few  were  seasick.  At  length 
breakfast  was  announced  by  ringing  the  ship's 
bell.  Coffee  bad,  sugar  dirty  and  bread  wormy, 
constituted  our  morning  meal.  The  complaints 
of  the  passengers  was  made  known  to  the  Cap- 
tain, who  being  slightly  alarmed  at  their  angry 
countenances  promised  a  revision  of  the  culinary 
department  and  better  fare  in  future.  Nothing 
of  note  occurred  until  dinner,  when  the  same  scene 
as  yesterday  was  enacted  o'er  again.  Mess  beef 
half  cooked,  rice  boiled  with  the  husk  on  it,  and 
Isthmus  made  molasses,  with  dirt,  gravel  and 
sticks  in  it,  besides  some  other  curious  looking 
things,  which  I  did  not  exactly  understand.  As 
the  natives  would  say — Mucho  Malo  Como. 

The  sun  was  very  hot  about  noon,  but  towards 
evening  the  wind  freshened  up,  and  our  old  ship 
exhibited  the  only  good  quality  we  had  seen  about 


66  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

her,  sailing  well.  Course  today  S.  W.  although 
San  Francisco  is  N.  W.  from  Panama;  but  sail- 
ing vessels  usually  run  down  about  looo  miles  in 
that  direction  before  pointing  to  the  Eldorado, 
in  order  to  take  advantage  of  the  trade  winds. 
Saw  a  steamship  on  the  starboard,  but  too  far  off 
to  make  her  out.  Heard  some  passengers  talk- 
ing about  California  and  wishing  themselves 
there,  and  judging  from  the  serious  countenances 
around  me  a  good  many  were  thinking  of  the 
same.  The  supper  was  a  repetition  of  the  night 
before,  which  again  produced  curses  bitter,  loud 
and  deep.  M.  threw  his  cup  at  the  Captain  and 
threatened  to  throw  him  overboard  if  he  gave  us 
any  more  such  stuff.  The  scene  was  a  rich  one, 
passengers  hungry  and  infuriated,  brandishing 
cups,  plates  knives,  spoons,  etc.,  while  the  Cap- 
tain not  understanding  a  word  of  our  language, 
thought  that  every  moment  would  be  his  last.  Pro- 
curing an  interpreter,  he  proposed  to  employ  a 
new  set  of  cooks,  which  pacified  the  noisy  ones 
and  all  was  soon  quiet  on  board. 
JUNE  7th.  Arose  at  seven  unrefreshed  hav- 
ing slept  but  little  down  below  last  night,  on  ac- 
count of  the  heat  and  confined  air,  being  as  dis- 
agreeable as  it  was  new.  Eight  bells  and  break- 
fast, which  tho'  some  better  was  yet  very  unpal- 
atable. In  order  to  better  things  the  passengers 
divided  themselves  off  into  messes  of  10  each,  and 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  6'] 

as  a  good  deal  of  grumbling  was  still  going  on, 
it  was  proposed  and  agreed  to  have  a  meeting  of 
the  passengers,  and  acquaint  the  Captain  with  the 
object  of  it.  Each  mess  then  instructed  one  of 
their  number  what  they  wished  the  Captain  to  do. 
Our  mess  was  composed  of  us  four  Shelbyvillians 
— B.  S.  M.  &  B.  from  Mobile,  Dr.  W.  and  the 
Rev.  Mr.  C.  from  East  Tennessee,  and  knowing 
that  a  Methodist  Preacher  always  lived  on  the 
best — provided  always  they  can  get  it — we  ap- 
pointed the  Rev.  Mr.  C.  head  of  our  mess  to 
represent  us  in  the  indignation  meeting.  The 
heads  of  messes  then  met,  organized,  appointed  a 
chairman  and  secretary,  and  a  subcommittee  to 
draft  a  set  of  resolutions.  The  Committee  re- 
ported that  two  of  each  mess  should  draw  prov- 
ender for  the  balance  at  each  meal,  and  that  the 
Captain  should  employ  Americans  to  cook  for  us. 
The  report  was  read  to  the  assembled  multitude 
on  deck  who  concurred  therein  and  was  then  read 
to  the  Captain  who  promised  compliance  on  his 
part.  The  resolutions  expressed  in  mild  but  firm 
language,  our  rights  as  passengers  regarding 
cooking,  provisions,  meal  hours  and  privileges 
generally  as  passengers. 

Made  some  acquantances  today  and  had  a  long 
talk  about  our  future  movements  in  the  battle  of 
life.  Our  course  S.  W.  ?  Wind  light,  sun  hot. 
Some  of  the  passengers  sea  sick,  and  some  one  or 


68  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

two  with  the  Panama  fever.  Notice  stuck  up 
by  Captain  that  water  would  be  measured  out  to 
us  as  a  report  had  reached  his  ears  that  some  of 
the  passengers  were  using  it  for  washing  pur- 
poses that  it  was  not  intended  for.  The  water  is 
getting  very  bad,  thick  as  honey  and  very  sulph- 
urous in  odor.  The  committee  on  grievances  cor- 
rected this  rumor  and  nothing  more  was  said  or 
done  about  water.  The  weather  foul  and  misty, 
which  with  the  number  of  passengers  on  board 
makes  our  vessel  more  like  a  pig  pen  than  a  place 
for  human  beings,  and  if  some  of  us  are  not  sick 
it  will  not  be  for  the  want  of  a  cause.  Slept  on 
deck  until  rain  drove  me  down  below. 
JUNE  8th.  Raining  this  morning  outrageous, 
and  our  vessel  more  like  a  hog  pen  than  ever. 
Our  breakfast  under  the  management  of  new 
cooks  was  some  better,  tho'  yet  worse  than  any 
person  not  a  savage  would  give  his  servants. 
Broke  our  fast  in  the  rain,  vastly  unpleasant. 
Wind  fitful  through  the  day.  Sail  on  the  larboard 
bow.  Passengers  all  quiet  and  passing  away  the 
time  as  well  as  possible.  Course  the  same,  and  go- 
ing slowly. 

SUNDAY,  JUNE  9th.  After  rolling  and  toss- 
ing all  night,  got  up  this  morning  and  found  it 
raining  harder  than  ever.  But  as  a  man  can  get 
used  to  almost  anything,  we  partook  of  breakfast 
in  the  rain  with  a  better  grace  than  the  day  be- 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  69 

fore.  The  wind  was  fitful  and  gusty,  blew  my 
Panama  hat  off,  and  away  it  went  dancing  on  the 
waters.  I  was  sorry  and  almost  mad  enough  to 
cuss,  but  don't  recollect  whether  I  did  or  not.  The 
grievance  committee  requested  the  Captain  to  em- 
ploy a  new  cook,  which  he  did.  One  of  them  that 
was  employed  the  day  before  being  reported  drunk 
and  unfit  for  duty.  There  being  two  preachers 
on  board  we  all  congregated  for  service,  but  just 
as  the  minister  was  about  commencing  there  came 
a  squall,  followed  by  a  drenching  rain  that  broke 
up  the  meeting.  Course  S.  W.  Some  more  sick- 
ness on  board,  fevers  principally.  About  sunset 
saw  a  small  island,  called  Valpillo. 
JUNE  loth.  Going  on  deck  this  morning 
found  the  old  "Cachalot"  going  gallantly  a  N.  W. 
course.  For  breakfast  we  had  in  addition  to 
the  usual  fare  some  fresh  pork  boiled,  about  half 
done.  Some  of  our  mess  found,  when  nobody 
was  looking  at  them,  some  potatoes,  then  borrow- 
ing a  frying  pan  cooked  them  and  the  pork  to- 
gether, which  was  decidedly  the  best  meal  we  had 
eaten  on  the  ship.  For  the  preservation  of  health 
we  cleaned  the  ship  between  decks,  the  Captain, 

D him,   saying  that  he  would  not  have   it 

done.  With  a  good  wind  our  hopes  of  a  short 
trip  were  good,  and  some  bets  were  offered  that 
the  trip  would  be  made  inside  of  40  days.  Pai- 
sengers  variously  occupied,  reading,  talking,  play- 


70  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

ing  cards,  washing,  mending  etc.  New  cook  has 
improved  our  fare  considerably,  and  all  appear  to 
be  getting  along  finely,  and  so  closes  the  day. 
JUNE  nth.  Awoke  this  morning  and  found 
the  rain  descending,  the  wind  blowing  and  our 
old  ship  ploughing  through  the  deep  at  the  rate 
of  9  or  lo  knots  an  hour.  At  breakfast  which  was 
taken  in  the  rain  the  usual  fare  and  scene  was 
presented.  Our  bill  of  fare  when  examined  pre- 
sented a  tolerable  good  appearance,  but  we  never 
drew  but  one  thing  at  a  time;  for  instance,  we  got 
the  meat  in  the  morning  to  last  us  all  day,  then 
at  noon  we  drew  the  potatoes  or  beans,  then  at 
supper  we  got  rice  and  molasses;  each  on  the 
days  appointed  for  such  delicacies.  The  only  ex- 
ception to  this  is  the  fresh  meat  contained  in  the 
bread,  for  that  we  get  at  every  meal.  The  rain 
and  wind  continued  through  the  day,  so  that  we 
travelled  fine  if  It  was  disagreable.  Night  cooler 
and  slept  better. 

JUNE  1 2th.  This  morning  on  going  on  deck 
found  old  Sol  just  emerging  from  his  watery  pil- 
low, bright  and  beautiful.  We  made  a  glorious 
run  through  the  past  night,  but  with  the  rising  sun 
the  wind  died  away,  and  left  us  rolling  about  on 
old  ocean's  bosom.  This  being  the  day  set  for  eat- 
ing ham  our  appetites  were  keen  and  expectations 
high  for  a  good  feast,  but  for  some  cause  they 
were  not  served  out.     This  caused  some  grum- 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  71 

bling  but  learning  that  it  was  an  oversight  on  the 
steward's  part,  and  that  they  would  come  to- 
morrow all  was  soon  quiet.  Sea  calm  with  count- 
less numbers  of  Dolphins  playing  around  us.  For 
dinner  we  had  what  was  called  bean  soup,  and  for 
dessert — a  chunk  of  a  fight  between  one  of  our 
mess  and  W.  of  S.  county  Tennessee.  Vinegar 
was  said  to  be  the  cause  of  the  fracas.  No  damage 
done,  but  a  large  amount  of  talking  and  some  tall 
swearing.  The  Captain  acted  as  pacificator,  and 
liked  to  have  got  himself  whipped.  The  tumult 
soon  dwindled  down  to  a  calm,  and  all  went  on 
as  usual.  N.  N.  W.  course,  winds  light  and  sea 
smooth. 

JUNE  13th.  Felt  very  tired  and  uncomfort- 
able this  morning  from  sleeping  on  a  very  narrow 
plank.  Sun  rose  clear  and  red,  wind  fair,  course 
S.  W.  The  long  looked  for  and  much  wished  for 
ham  made  its  appearance,  served  up  raw,  but  hav- 
ing some  cooking  utensils  we  made  a  hearty  break- 
fast from  it.  After  eating,  Ben  and  myself  pre- 
pared to  wash  dishes,  this  being  our  day  for  such 
business.  With  salt  water  and  a  small,  very 
small  rag,  we  made  them  worse  than  before,  for 
salt  water  and  grease  will  have  nothing  to  do 
with  each  other.  In  some  instances  appearances 
go  a  great  ways,  and  it  was  true  literally  in  this 
case.  So  with  a  promise  of  thorough  cleansing 
when  we  got  on  dirt  we  set  them  aside.     Made  a 


72  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

fair  run  through  the  day,  and  as  the  sun  went 
down,  the  young  Queen  of  Night  arose  and  gave 
us  a  little  light  to  guide  us  on  o'er  the  vast  deep. 
I  stretched  myself  on  deck  and  watched  the  moon 
as  she  gently  sank  into  old  ocean's  bosom,  leav- 
ing her  attendants,  a  host  of  bright  stars  to 
keep  watch  through  the  silent  hours  of  the  night. 
There  is  something  grand  on  shipboard  at  night, 
when  the  hum  of  voices  is  silent,  and  nought  is 
heard  but  the  boiling  waters  around  the  bow  of 
the  vessel,  as  she  dashed  through  the  briny  deep. 
With  such  music  ringing  in  my  ears  I  fell  asleep. 
JUNE  14th.  Clear  morning,  a  fine  breeze,  and 
our  vessel  going  fine  W.S.W.  Passengers  all  are 
quiet.  Some  card  playing  going  on,  but  very  little 
gambling.  Days  and  nights  some  cooler  than 
when  we  started,  as  we  leave  the  sun  north  of  us 
more  and  more  every  hour,  sailing  our  present 
direction  S.W.  Today  at  noon  we  were  near  the 
equator.  The  moon  gave  us  a  little  more  light, 
and  then  retired  early  to  rest.  The  sea  around 
the  bows  of  the  ship  is  truly  beautiful  at  night, 
the  phosphorescent  appearance  being  very  plain. 
Rolled  my  blanket  around  me  and  slept  on  a  hen 
coop. 

JUNE  15th.  Cloudy  morning,  but  a  stiff  breeze 
sending  the  old  Cachalot  through  the  water  at 
a  rate  of  10  knots  an  hour.  The  wind  coming 
quartering  makes  her  roll  over  to  one  side  con- 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  73 

siderable,  rendering  locomotion  extremely  difficult, 
and  causing  frequent  tumblings.  At  noon  about 
the  equatorial  line,  the  Gollipajos  Islands,  bear- 
ing E.N.E.  Occasionally  a  huge  wave  would 
leap  over  the  sides,  and  give  all  in  its  way  a  nice 
shower  bath.  Two  more  hogs  killed  today. 
Night  found  us  running  finely. 
SUNDAY,  JUNE  i6th.  Made  a  fine  run  last 
night,  and  this  morning  finds  us  careening  onward 
at  a  spanking  rate,  a  flowing  sea  and  a  wind 
that  follows  fast.  Boiled  hog  for  breakfast  and 
nothing  else.  (Take  my  hat  Ben  the  one  that 
went  overboard  the  other  day.)  11  o'clock  all 
assembled  to  hear  preaching  by  the  Rev.  Geo. 
Home.  Text  "Ask  and  ye  shall  receive ;  Seek 
and  ye  shall  find;  Knock  and  it  shall  be  opened 
unto  you."  This  don't  hold  good  in  a  carnal 
sense,  for  we  have  asked  for  better  grub,  but 
don't  receive  it.     A  game  of  cards  was  going  on 

at  the  same  time  of  preaching down  below — 

(Wicked  set  of  fellows  on  this  boat.) 

Dinner  over  the  Rev.  Mr.  Cunningham  gave 
us  another  sermon,  but  as  I  was  taking  a  siesta 
in  a  hammock  it  was  unheeded  by  me.  Whilst 
dispatching  our  supper  a  squall  and  rain  came  up, 
and  hurried  us  to  our  roost,  where  we  passed  a 
most  unpleasant  night.  The  wind  blew  very  hard 
and  the  waves  were  running  high,  together  with 
the  straining  and  creaking  of  the  old  ships  timbers, 


74  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

caused  many  to  pass  a  sleepless  and  uncomfortable 
night. 

JUNE  17th.  Cloudy  with  rain  occasionally,  wind 
blowing  about  a  10  knot  breeze,  and  the  old  ship 
so  much  on  her  side  that  locomotion  is  rather  diffi- 
cult. Saw  some  fall  and  spill  their  breakfast  on 
the  decks  which  are  anything  but  clean.  Noon 
finds  us  running  fine,  nearly  due  west.  With  night 
came  another  squall  and  rain  which  makes  our 
situation  more  unpleasant,  as  all  have  to  stay 
down  to  keep  dry.  After  rolling  and  tossing  half 
the  night,  I  finally  got  up  a  sleep  and  dreamed  of 

and  home. 

JUNE  1 8th.  Fine  clear  morning,  wind  fresh 
and  sea  foaming  and  boiling  around  us — like — 
like — like  the  sea  and  nothing  else.  While  scrib- 
bling away  at  these  nothings,  a  huge  sea  leaped 
over  the  bulwarks,  and  washed  my  pen,  ink  and 
paper  all  away  from  me.  I  got  gloriously  wet,  but 
scrambling  around  soon  found  my  material,  and 
enjoyed  a  few  hearty  laughs  at  the  appearance  of 
some  of  the  others,  who  also  received  a  sprinkling. 
Course  W.  by  S.  Sea  rough,  occasionally  com- 
ing over  the  sides  to  give  us  a  bath.  Supped  on 
tea  and  Irish  potatoes.  Then  came  night,  which 
brings  quiet,  if  not  rest  on  the  old  ship.  Whale. 
JUNE  19th.  Arose  with  an  uncomfortable 
headache,  and  swallowed  some  medicine  and  a 
light  breakfast.     Wind  blowing  finely   and  our 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  75 

old  ship  groaning  and  creaking  under  her  load  of 
canvas,  but  dashing  thro  the  water  like  a  mad- 
dened creature.  Porpoises  by  the  thousands  play- 
ing around  us  all  the  morning.  Ham  for  dinner 
which  puts  all  who  are  able  to  eat  in  a  good  hu- 
mor. Several  passengers  sick;  two  of  our  mess 
—Dr.  W.  and  Rev.  Mr.  C.  A  Col.  Crews  of 
Ga.  is  very  sick  with  Panama  fever,  so  says  Dr. 
Young,  ship  surgeon.  The  rush  to  draw  provi- 
sions is  as  great  as  ever  when  the  bell  rings,  and 
then  to  see  us  all  squatted  about  over  the  vessel 
in  every  conceivable  place  and  position,  is  one  of 
the  richest  sights  imaginable — on  hog  pens, 
chicken  coops  etc.  Made  a  fine  run  through  the 
day,  and  had  a  very  dark  night,  but  as  there  is 
no  danger  of  snags  we  run  all  night  without  tying 
up. 

JUNE  20th.  Fine  morning — warm  and  pleas- 
ant, with  just  breeze  enough  to  keep  the  sail  full. 
Saw  a  sail,  but  did  not  learn  from  whence  she  came 
nor  whither  she  goeth,  so  with  a  clear  sky  and  a 
deep  blue  sea  we  passed  each  other  and  soon  were 
out  of  sight.  Plenty  of  room  here  to  pass,  none 
of  your  jostling  and  crowding  like  some  of  the 
thoroughfares  on  terra  firma.  After  breakfast 
was  over — the  eating  utensils  washed  and  put 
away,  I  tried  my  hand  at  washing  clothes  for  the 
first  time,  and  with  cold  salt  water  I  made  but 
slow  progress  in  removing  the  earth.     I  rubbed 


76  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

away  for  a  considerable  time  and  at  last  was 
forced  to  quit  as  the  cuticle  of  my  hands  showed 
signs  of  being  removed  before  the  garments  would 
part  with  the  grease  and  dirt  which  had  collected 
on  them.  So  with  a  rinse  and  squeeze  I  hung  them 
in  the  rigging  to  dry,  vowing  that  if  ever  this 
hombre  got  back  to  the  white  settlements,  he 
would  immediately  unite  with  some  feminine  and 
let  her  attend  to  all  such  domestic  affairs. 

In  the  afternoon  saw  two  sails,  they  hoisted 
their  colors,  when  our  Captain  ran  up  the  tricolor 
of  old  France.  More  new  cases  of  sickness, 
comes  on  with  a  chill  then  comes  fever,  nausea, 
headache  and  alarming  debility.  The  treatment 
is  to  evacuate  the  stomach  when  necessary,  then 
Mercurials  and  gentle  aperients,  cooling  draughts, 
and  the  liberal  use  of  quinine  with  stimulants  if 
indicated.  Tea  over,  I  sit  and  watch  the  moon 
and  stars,  and  wonder  if  the  inhabitants  of  those 
climes  had  ever  heard  of  California,  until  sleep 
shuts  out  the  scene. 

JUNE  2 1  St.  Fine  morning,  sun  bright  and  wind 
stiff  from  same  quarter.  At  noon  in  Longitude 
102,  latitude  3.  Saw  a  sail  which  bore  away  to 
the  N.N.W.  and  was  soon  lost  in  the  dim  distance. 
At  night  the  clouds  dispersed  and  the  Queen  of 
Night  with  her  starry  attendants  smiled  benignly 
on  us  with  refulgent  rays  and  with  an  increased 
wind  we  sailed  on  o'er  the  glad  waters  of  the  deep 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  77 

blue  sea — through  cloudless  climes  and  starry 
skies. 

JUNE  22nd.  "The  sky  with  clouds  was  over- 
cast", the  breeze  had  increased  to  a  young  gale, 
and  a  few  drops  of  rain  occasionally,  all  bespoke 
a  gloomy  day  at  sea.  Course  as  for  the  last  few 
days.  Such  weather  as  this  people  are  usually 
irritable  and  cross,  and  today  we  had  some  quar- 
rels, and  a  considerable  amount  of  grumbling 
about  provisions.  The  committee  on  provender 
met  and  petitioned  the  Captain  for  a  larger  sup- 
ply of  rice,  molasses,  potatoes  and  better  bread, 
all  of  which  he  promised  should  be  supplied  when 
peace  was  restored  and  another  day  was  added  to 
the  past. 

SUNDAY,  JUNE  23rd.  Dark,  gloomy  and 
windy.  Our  course  changed  a  few  points  more 
north.  Col.  Crews  of  Columbus,  Ga.  reported 
worse,  and  about  12  or  i  he  drew  his  last  gasp, 
lying  on  the  poop  deck  with  a  few  friends  and 
acquaintances  around  while  the  wind  whistled 
through  the  rigging — melancholy  and  mournful 
as  tho'  it  was  wailing  for  the  spirit  which  had  just 
left  its  earthly  tenement.  Preaching  again  today 
by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Home,  and  about  four  the  mor- 
tal remains  of  Col.  C.  were  committed  to  the 
deep.  Wrapped  in  his  blanket  with  weights  at- 
tached to  his  feet,  he  was  laid  on  a  plank,  and 
after  the  Rev.  Mr.   Hornc  had  performed  the 


78  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

funeral  ceremonies,  he  was  dropped  into  the  deep 
blue  sea;  there  to  await  the  sound  of  that  trum- 
pet which  is  to  call  all  to  judgment.  A  funeral 
is  solemn  at  any  time  and  place,  but  appears  to 
be  much  more  so  at  sea.  To  see  the  dead  depos- 
ited in  the  wide  waste  of  water,  solitary  and  alone, 
without  any  possibility  of  marking  the  spot, 
seemed  to  produce  a  sadness  and  thoughtfulness 
on  all  on  board,  and  the  day  passed  away  more 
silent  than  any  one  I  have  yet  seen  on  the  Pacific. 
When  a  person  dies  at  sea  they  are  usually  com- 
mitted to  the  deep  in  a  few  hours  after  the  spirit 
takes  its  leave,  as  the  sailors  are  a  superstitious 
people  and  believe  that  a  corpse  kept  on  board 
any  length  of  time  is  the  harbinger  of  evil.  Saw 
a  small  schooner  in  the  afternoon;  some  of  pass- 
engers said  was  from  New  York  around  the 
Horn  standing  for  San  Francisco. 
JUNE  24th.  Was  another  dismal,  gloomy  and 
disagreeable  day.  Rained  all  morning,  sick  and 
felt  little  disposition  to  eat.  Drank  a  cup  of  cof- 
fee to  please  K.  Our  apartments  were  very  wet 
and  very  filthy.  Heavy  rain  killed  the  wind  and 
we  rolled  about  on  the  sea  pointing  every  direc- 
tion but  making  no  headway.  During  the  rain 
the  Captain  had  the  water  caught  as  it  ran  off 
the  poop  deck  and  put  it  into  water  casks  for 
drinking  purposes;  but  Americans  couldn't  stand 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  79 

such  as  that  and  told  the  Captain  so.  The  soup 
made  with  such  water  was  thrown  away,  and  the 
barrels  emptied.  The  C.  was  notified  that  an- 
other such  piece  of  business  would  lead  to  some- 
thing serious.  Squalls  and  showers  the  remainder 
of  the  day.  For  dinner  ate  a  wormy  cracker  and 
piece  of  mule,  and  for  supper  two  Irish  potatoes, 
half  rotten  and  half  cooked.  Altogether  this 
has  been  the  most  disagreeable  day  I  have  yet 
experienced,  and  wound  up  with  a  small  fight. 
This  is  one  side  of  the  picture  of  a  voyage  at 
sea,  and  if  there  be  a  worse  one,  I  care  not  to 
see  it.  Night  brought  us  a  breeze  and  so  we  go. 
JUNE  25th.  Cloudy  with  light  breeze  and  ap- 
pearance of  rain.  Slept  but  little  and  feel  very 
sick,  our  course  has  been  changed  and  we  now 
head  for  the  City  of  the  Eldorado.  Another  fight 
today.  Bad  weather  and  worse  provisions  appear 
to  make  men  cross,  and  trifles  light  as  air  that 
would  not  be  noticed  under  other  circumstances 
lead  to  words  and  curses  and  blows.  After  all 
man  is  considerable  of  a  brute  at  best,  and  con- 
sequently has  brutish  ways.  Afternoon  calm,  but 
with  night  came  wind  and  rain  and  drove  us 
through  the  foaming  waters  at  a  spanking  rate. 
JUNE  26th.  Morning  cloudy  with  fair  wind. 
K —  unwell  but  nothing  serious.  At  noon  a  pretty 
heavy  squall  which  rattled  things  about  consid- 


8o  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

erable,  and  made  navigating  the  decks  trouble- 
some and  a  little  dangerous.  Sunset  brought 
calm  and  left  us  so. 

JUNE  27th.  Sun  rose  clear  dead  ahead. 
Dreamed  last  night  of  being  in  San  FVancisco  etc. 
The  sick  all  improving.  Read  some  of  Dr.  Dodd's 
lectures  on  Psychology.  Brig  in  view  at  1 1  and 
about  noon  saw  a  ship.  Spoke  to  her  and  found 
her  from  N.Y.  bound  for  S.F.  Head  winds  and 
no  wind  and  so  we  made  but  little  progress.  The 
ship  passed  again  to  leeward  of  us  and  showed 
the  Star  Spangled  Banner,  while  our  craft  ran  up 
the  tricolor  of  Republiquc  La  France.  Took  a 
seat  today  on  the  cross  trees  of  the  main  mast  and 
looked  down  upon  the  busy  multitude  below  me. 
Mrs.  C.  and  Captain's  wife  sick. 
JUNE  28th.  Sun  rose  clear  and  brilliant,  winds 
light  and  old  ocean's  brow  smooth  and  calm  as  a 
lake  in  a  peaceful  summer's  evening.  Slept  well 
last  night,  and  felt  better,  considerably  better  to- 
day. About  10  spoke  our  acquaintance  of  yes- 
terday again  when  she  proved  to  be  the  Cassandra 
117  days  out  from  N.  York.  Potatoes  out  and 
in  their  place  we  have  soup,  made  from  the  bread 
and  the  worms  therein  contained.  Calm,  calm, 
calm.  Passengers  all  mad  and  talking  of  anything 
and  everything  to  pass  away  the  time,  and  tho' 
some  of  them  are  lucky  enough  to  raise  the  wind 
by  gambling  they  cannot  raise  wind  enough  to 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  8i 

fill  the  sails.  Extracted  another  molar.  After 
tea  got  some  brandy  and  made  a  stew  for  my 
cold,  drank  it — went  to  bed  and  was  soon  like 
"Tam  O'Shanter — not  fou" — but  just  enough  to 
feel  glorious  o'er  all  the  Ills  of  life  victorious. 
JUNE  29th.  This  morning  opened  with  a  stiff 
breeze,  and  blew  us  along  at  a  glorious  rate  tho' 
in  the  wrong  direction.  But  that  is  better  than 
a  calm,  for  to  stand  still  in  this  progressive  age 
is  worse  than  going  wrong.  Course  west  by 
south  until  noon  when  the  wind  changed  and  so 
did  we,  running  west  by  north.  The  Cassandra 
in  sight  occasionally  through  the  day.  Sun  set 
clear  and  we  making  five  knots  an  hour. 
SUNDAY,  JUNE  30th.  As  soon  as  I  heard 
the  sun  was  up  I  arose  took  a  bath  and  put  on 
some  clean  harness,  and  broke  my  fast  on  some 
fresh  pork.  Our  acquaintance  of  the  two  past 
days  yet  in  sight  tho'  towards  evening  she  bore 
away  and  faded  from  our  view.  Preachers  both 
unwell,  and  no  preaching  today.  Duff  and  mo- 
lasses for  dinner  and  a  bottle  of  wine  which  we 
used  only  on  Sundays  to  make  it  hold  out.  Night 
brings  a  5  knot  breeze  and  so  we  go  to  roost. 
MONDAY,  JULY  ist.  Fine  breeze  this  mor- 
ning and  the  old  Cachalot  sailing  beautifully. 
Went  through  some  comparisons  today  between 
my  present  position  and  twelve  months  ago;  one 
picture  was  fair  and  bright,  and  the  other  was 


82  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

dark,  watery  and  gloomy.  So  I  dismissed  the 
subject  and  played  a  game  of  whist  in  which  I 
and  my  partner  were  victors.  Large  majority  of 
the  passengers  suffering  from  bad  colds,  as  we  are 
now  in  the  midst  of  a  tropical  winter.  Water, 
water,  water  all  around  us,  and  but  little  in  our 
casks,  said  to  be  nearly  out  which  caused  some 
serious  reflections,  as  it  is  a  very  solemn  thing 
to  contemplate  being  out  of  water  while  on  sea. 
Day  continues  clear,  breeze  fair  and  so  the  sun 
and  I  went  to  bed  together. 

JULY  2nd,  1850.  A  clear  morning  and  light 
winds,  our  course  being  N.W.  by  N,  After  break- 
fast while  the  majority  were  amusing  themselves 
by  cards  and  dice  and  novels,  I  hauled  up  a  bucket 
of  water  and  washed  j/2  dozen  pieces,  but  like  my 
first  experiment,  the  skin  came  off  my  fingers 
before  the  grease  and  dirt  would  depart  from  my 
garments.  I  had  almost  sworn  not  to  wash  any 
more,  but  as  our  voyage  is  likely  to  be  a  long  one 
must  keep  as  clean  as  possible  to  prevent  sick- 
ness, which  is  hard  to,  on  this  filthy  old  ship. 
Towards  night  the  wind  hauled  round  a  little  and 
sends  us  more  westward  than  we  like.  The  sun 
made  his  bed  In  a  bank  of  clouds  and  retired  to 
rest. 

JULY  3rd.  Got  up  with  a  headache,  and  on  go- 
ing up  found  the  sun  rising  dead  ahead  of  us, 
our  old  vessel  having  tacked  sometime  in  the  night. 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  83 

A  perfect  babel  on  board  this  morning  in  conse- 
quence of  the  Captain  saying  that  we  would  have 
to  make  out  with  a  pint  of  water  during  24 
hours,  until  he  could  run  into  the  Sandwich  Islands 
to  replenish.  The  Committee  on  Provender  met 
and  talked  and  quarreled,  and  then  broke  up  in 
a  row.  The  Captain  wanted  an  expression  of 
opinion  from  the  passengers  as  to  what  course 
he  should  pursue  under  the  circumstances.  Some 
were  for  going  straight  to  the  Islands,  some  for 
San  Francisco,  and  some  from  the  way  they  cussed 
— were  for  the  devil.  After  a  while  the  calmest 
and  most  reasonable  of  us  got  together  and  talked 
the  matter  over,  and  finally  concluded  to  let  the 
Captain  do  as  he  thought  best.  I  learned  from 
the  Captain  that  he  thought  It  very  doubtful  of 
making  California  before  the  water  would  give 
out  entirely,  but  he  believed  that  we  could  make 
the  Islands  in  good  time,  so  after  making  a  small 
talk  to  the  passengers  we  agreed  to  have  no  more 
committee  of  grievances  and  let  the  Capt.  take 
all  the  responsibility  as  what  was  best  for  him- 
self and  us.  The  old  fellow  is  smart  enough  to 
try  and  get  the  sanction  of  the  Committee — act- 
ing for  the  passengers — to  all  he  does,  which 
would  clear  him  from  any  damages,  should  the 
passengers,  or  any  of  them  bring  suit  against  him 
when  they  land  in  Calif,  as  some  are  talking  of 
doing.     But  we  dissolved  all  committees  today, 


84  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

and  left  him  to  act  for  us  all.  Longitude  today 
130  from  Havre.  Winds  light  and  variable  and 
what  little  we  have  is  driving  us  towards  the 
Islands.  Ham  for  din.  Towards  evening  all 
became  quiet  on  board,  and  as  I  was  a  little  sick 
and  very  tired  of  the  day's  troubles  I  laid  me 
down  early. 

JULY  4th.  74  years  ago  Independence  was  de- 
clared by  the  U.  S.  Two  years  ago  I  was  enjoy- 
ing myself  hugely  tripping  the  light  fantastic  toe 
with  fair  forms  and  bright  eyes,  to  the  melodious 
screeching  of  wood  and  catgut,  and  one  year 
ago  I  was  in  Shelbyville  feasting  on  the  good 
things  of  earth  with  friends  and  relatives,  but 
today — Oh !  what  a  change.  'Tis  well  for  man 
that  he  cannot  see  the  future,  for  the  boldest 
heart  would  be  appalled,  and  the  strongest  eye 
would  quail  at  the  mountains  of  danger  that  now 
surround  us,  without  so  much  as  drawing  forth 
an  exclamation  of  wonder,  or  a  shudder  at  the 
precipices  of  difficulty  that  now  environ  us.  Wind 
stiff  this  morning  with  flying  clouds  overhead. 
Fresh  pork.  This  being  a  national  day  with  the 
passengers  the  Captain  opened  his  heart  and  a 
barrel  of  wine,  and  gave  us  all  a  little  grape  juice, 
which  upon  the  whole  was  pretty  fair  vinegar 
— but  with  fresh  meat,  duff  and  wine  we  made  a 
hearty  meal,  after  which  feeling  a  little  patriotic 
we   concluded   to   celebrate.      I   got   a  book   and 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  85 

read  the  "Declaration  of  Independence"  after 
which  we  had  a  few  short  speeches — opened  some 
bottles  of  wine  and  Otard  and  made  merry  until 
old  Sol  left  us,  when  a  shower  took  possession  of 
the  deck  and  drove  us  all  down  below,  and  this 
ended  the  Fourth  of  July,  1850. 
JULY  5th.  Arose  and  found  the  sun  up  before 
me.  Headache  and  cold  worse  from  yesterday 
being  the  4th.  Nearly  calm,  old  ship  laboring 
along  slowly  in  a  southwest  course.  Tired  of  that 
direction.  Oh!  for  a  change.  The  Capt.  an- 
nounced that  he  should  steer  direct  for  the  Islands, 
and  that  as  water  was  scarce  he  would  be  com- 
pelled to  allowance  us,  and  stop  our  coffee  and 
tea  in  the  morning  and  evening.  This  riled  some 
of  the  passengers  a  good  deal,  but  as  it  couldn't 
be  helped  It  had  to  be  borne.  In  place  of  coffee 
we  got  a  gill  of  brandy  in  the  morning,  and  in  the 
place  of  tea  half  pint  of  claret  wine.  We  still 
draw  salt  pork  and  beef,  and  hard  bread,  and  to 
sum  up,  our  fare  is  now  a  ij/^  pint  of  water  in 
the  morning  early,  for  24  hours,  for  breakfast 
w€  have  a  gill  of  brandy,  a  hard  cracker  and  dry 
salt  beef.  For  dinner  we  have  salt  pork  or  beef, 
or  as  sometimes  happens  mule  meat,  hard  bread 
and  brandy  if  there  is  any  left  from  breakfast. 
For  supper,  sour  wine,  hard  bread,  and  the  rem- 
nants of  meat  from  dinner  all  to  be  washed  down 
by  just  one  swallow  of  water,  as  it  is  too  scarce 


86  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

and  precious  to  use  more  than  that  at  a  time.  I 
had  heard  of  such  a  thing  as  short  allowance,  but 
never  experienced  it  before,  in  the  eating  and 
drinking  line,  and  as  I  profess  to  be  a  reasonable 
fellow  I  am  perfectly  satisfied  with  this  experi- 
ment, and  would  be  more  than  willing  to  quit  off 
now.  This  kind  of  living  will  in  all  probability 
be  the  cause  of  some  poor  fellow  being  thrown 
overboard  to  satisfy  the  appetite  of  some  of  the 
monsters  of  the  vasty  deep.  Hope  it  will  not  be 
me.     Cloudy. 

JULY  6th.  Up  this  morning  with  the  sun,  and 
found  the  course  changed,  having  tacked  ship 
sometime  during  the  night.  Old  ocean  as  smooth 
as  a  mirror  with  scarce  breeze  enough  to  make 
steerage  way.  Great  excitement  among  the  pass- 
engers about  the  Captain  taking  us  to  the  Islands. 
Amidst  so  much  noise  it  was  a  rich  sight  to  see 
1 60  men  all  with  bottles  in  their  hands  rushing 
to  the  forward  hatch  to  draw  their  supply  of 
water.  Messes  were  called  by  numbers,  and  each 
man  would  step  up  and  get  his  bottle  of  water, 
and  give  way  to  another.  The  water  was  so 
precious  that  each  one,  as  soon  as  he  drew  it, 
locked  it  up  as  secure  as  possible,  and  would  no 
doubt  have  shed  his  own  or  another's  blood  rather 
than  part  with  it.  Noon,  breeze  sprung  up,  and 
we  again  tacked  ship,  and  stood  west  by  S.W.  To 
describe  the  scenes  and  language  of  this  one  day, 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  87 

would  fill  a  dozen  sheets  of  foolscap.  Suffice  it 
to  say — babel.  My  own  feelings  were  gloomy  and 
more  desponding  than  since  leaving  home.  But 
miserable  as  the  day  is — night  is  worse 
SUNDAY,  JULY  7th.  As  this  was  Sunday  and 
I  rolled  and  tossed  all  night,  I  indulged  in  lying 
abed  later.  Winds  lighter,  course  N.W.  Great 
trading  among  the  passengers  in  water.  Some 
give  their  wine  or  brandy  or  both  for  a  gill  of 
water,  and  some  poor  fellows  offer  every  cent 
they  have  in  the  world  for  enough  to  satisfy  their 
thirst  just  one  time.  The  sick  are  allowed  double 
portions,  which  to  those  who  are  parched  by 
fever  is  little  enough.  Taking  a  seat  in  the  rig- 
ging I  thought  of  my  dream  last  night,  which 
I  knew  was  not  true,  and  which  I  would  not  have 
true  for  all  my  hopes  in  California.  The  dream 
was — no  matter  what,  but  it  brought  memory 
dear  of  home.  Ah,  it  is  sweet  to  think  and  talk 
of  home,  bright,  dear,  comfortable  home,  when 
wending  our  way  o'er  the  dark  waters  of  the  deep 
blue  sea,  or  through  unknown  lands,  sitting  be- 
neath the  roof  of  strangers,  or  under  the  green 
leaves  of  the  wild  free  woods.  Is  there  ever 
found  one  ray  of  sunshine  so  bright  to  the  heart 
of  the  wanderer  as  even  one  thought  of  home? 
No,  no,  no.  At  10  had  a  sermon  by  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Home  of  Knox  Co.,  Tenn.  In  the  after- 
noon preaching  and  exhorting  and  prayer  meeting. 


S8  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

Wind  sprung  up  fresh  and  we  saw  the  sunset 
nearly  ahead  of  us,  our  course  being  direct  for 
the  S.W.  Islands. 

JULY  8th.  Sun  rose  clear  with  a  fair  wind 
and  our  ship  making  good  headway  for  the  de- 
sired haven  at  the  rate  of  6  knots  an  hour.  Con- 
siderable excitement  this  morning  about  some 
person  stealing  water  last  night.  Bitter  were 
the  execrations  against  the  thief,  and  rightly  so, 
for  the  water  stolen  might  have  saved  a  human 
life   from  the  worst  of  deaths.     The  thief  was 

pretty  strongly  suspected  to  be of  N.O. 

and  if  ever  one  fellow  was  frightened  he  was. 
Very  bad  times,  but  not  so  bad  as  they  can  be. 
Noon  clear,  bright  and  wind  fair.  Discussions 
of  the  passengers  endless  and  amusing  as  well  as 
ridiculous,  but  the  most  common  talk  is  of  water 
and  when  we  will  make  the  Islands.  Saw  a  large 
school  of  porpoises  in  their  uncouth  gambols,  and 
then  the  sun  was  gone. 

JULY  9th.  Sun  shining  brightly  when  I  arose 
with  fair  winds  for  our  speedy  anchorage  among 
the  Islands.  Gambling  is  becoming  profitable  to 
a  few  but  more  unprofitable  to  the  many.  Wind 
continued  fair  through  the  day,  the  sun  set  clear, 
and  stars  innumerable  showed  themselves  as  I 
lay  on  my  back  on  the  hatch  covering,  and  I  won- 
dered if  such  scenes  as  were  occurring  around  me 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  89 

ever  transpired  in  those  far  distant  worlds;  while 
so  musing  I  fell  into  a  deep  sleep,  and,  and  thus 
ended  July  9th. 

JULY  loth.  Up  early  and  saw  the  sun  arise 
from  his  watery  bed,  clear  and  bright.  Winds 
light  but  favorable  for  our  course.  My  cold 
and  headache  continues,  and  many  others  be- 
coming affected  which  I  could  not  account  for, 
until  I  remembered  that  we  were  in  the  midst  of 
winter  in  the  torrid  zone,  with  its  hot  days  and 
chilly  nights.  Some  new  cases  of  fever  this  mor- 
ning. Day  continued  clear,  and  when  myself  and 
the  sun  retired  to  rest  the  stars  were  out  in  all 
their  glory,  bright  and  innumerable. 
JULY  nth.  A  fair  morning,  a  flowing  sea  and 
wind  that  followed  fast,  and  we  gliding  along 
o'er  the  deep  waters  of  the  old  Pacific,  at  the  rate 
of  7  knots  an  hour  in  the  right  course  for  the 
Islands.  The  prospect  of  soon  reaching  our  ha- 
ven induced  the  Captain  to  give  us  some  hot 
water  which  he  called  tea  for  breakfast.  The 
days  are  dry,  the  nights  not  so  cool  and  bad 
colds  disappearing  gradually  like  they  say  Law- 
yers go  to  the  good  place.  The  breeze  held  up 
fair  through  the  day,  and  as  the  sun  disappeared 
the  young  moon  and  Miss  Venus  made  their  de- 
but, and  vied  with  each  other  as  to  which  would 
shed  the  most  light  upon  us  wanderers.     My  opin- 


90  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

ion  was  that  Venus  bore  off  the  palm,  her  rays 
being  so  bright  that  an  intervening  object  would 
cast  a  shadow. 

JULY  1 2th.  This  morning  was  fair  with  a  tol- 
erable good  wind,  which  sent  us  careening  onward 
at  the  rate  of  6  knots  an  hour  to  the  S.I.  While 
1  was  performing  my  morning  ablutions  a  fight  oc- 
curred between  S.  and  the  cook,  about  coffee. 
S.  used  some  hard  words  and  drew  a  knife,  but 
before  he  could  do  any  good  with  it  the  by- 
standers interfered,  peaceful  relations  were  re- 
stored, and  we  had  to  eat  our  breakfast  without 
a  fight.  My  cold  nearly  well.  Rain  towards 
evening  then  clear  sun  set,  then  a  host  of  stars — 
then  a  reverie — and  then  to  sleep. 
JULY  13th.  Slept  sound  and  good  last  night 
and  dreamed  I  was  in  San  Francisco  with  a  few 
old  acquaintances.  Rain  during  the  night,  but 
morning  was  clear  with  a  fair  wind  and  our  ves- 
sel sailing  delightfully  well.  Examined  a  case 
of  Fistula  upon  Mr.  L.  of  N.O.  with  Dr.  Y — 
and  advised  an  operation  to  which  the  patient 
would  not  submit.  Dinner  worse  than  usual, 
which  made  me  half  miserable  the  remainder  of 
the  day,  and  at  sundown  I  stretched  myself  on  my 
plank  to  pass  away  the  leaden  hours  of  night 
as  best  I  could. 

JULY  14th.  Arose  this  morning  at  4  by  the 
pleasant  cry  of,  land  ho!  and  at  daylight  had  the 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  91 

pleasure  of  looking  again  on  Terra  Firma. 
Passengers  all  in  fine  spirits,  with  pleasant  coun- 
tenances, which  was  really  refreshing  to  a  man 
who  had  scarcely  seen  a  smile  for  a  week  or 
more.  Olihyhee  or  Hawaii  the  name  of  the 
Island  upon  which  we  are  now  gazing  is  the  lar- 
gest one  of  the  group  composing  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  and  the  one  upon  which  the  celebrated 
Captain  Cook  was  murdered  by  the  natives.  We 
ran  in  sight  of  this  Island  all  day,  the  shores  of 
which  were  bold,  rugged  and  imposing,  with 
mountains  of  considerable  height  rising  gradu- 
ally from  the  sea.  The  surf  breaking  on  the 
rugged  shores  with  the  small  streams  leaping 
down  the  hills,  and  the  cataracts  of  the  larger  ones 
white  with  foam  as  they  dashed  from  crag  to 
precipice,  presented  the  grandest  as  well  as 
pleasantest  view  I  had  seen  for  many  a  long  weary 
day.  Oh !  how  I  wished  to  be  on  those  hills, 
with  dog,  gun  and  boon  companions  to  give  their 
denizens  a  chase  for  life.  And  these  are  the 
Islands  about  which  I  studied  when  a  wee  bit  of 
boy,  but  never  thought  to  see  them,  and  yet  this 
should  teach  us  there's  a  Divinity  shapes  our  ends, 
rough  hew  how  we  will.  Towards  evening  as  we 
wore  off  from  the  Island,  and  just  as  the  sun  was 
dipping  its  gilded  crest  into  the  vasty  deep,  one 
of  the  highest  mountains  in  the  Pacific,  with  its 
snow  capped  summit  broke  upon  our  view.     The 


92  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

name  of  the  peak,  if  1  forget  it  not  is  Moona- 
rovih  and  is  said  to  be  some  13,760  feet  about 
the  level  of  the  sea.  The  middle  of  July  in  the 
Torrid  zone  was  a  place  we  had  not  expected  to 
find  snow,  unless  we  had  brushed  up  our  geo- 
graphical knowledge  a  little.  With  the  last  rays 
of  the  God  of  day  reflected  on  its  summit,  as  it 
lifted  its  hoary  head  above  the  clouds,  it  might 
well  cause  one  to  exclaim 

"Moonarovih  is  the  monarch  of  mountains. 
They've  crowned  him  long  ago. 
On  a  throne  of  rocks,  in  a  robe  of  clouds, 
With  a  diadem  of  snow." 

As  it  disappeared  in  the  fast  approaching  twi- 
light, I  turned  away  with  a  sigh  and,  and  wished 
I  had  a  big  ball  of  snow  from  its  summit.  About 
dusk  the  second  Island  was  seen  with  its  bold 
shores,  bleak  hills,  and  verdureless  appearance; 
so  with  one  island  fading  from  view,  and  another 
looming  up  in  the  distance,  the  day  was  over  or 
done  and  night  silent  but  for  the  creaking  of  the 
cordage,  and  the  mysterious  murmur  of  old  ocean 
began  its  reign,  when  I,  fatigued  with  the  day's 
excitement  turned  into  my  bunk. 
JULY  15th.  With  the  sun  I  was  up,  when  an- 
other magnificent  prospect  greeted  my  sight.  The 
second  island  was  in  sight,  and  with  its  lofty  and 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  93 

bald  headed  peaks  shooting  far  above  the  clouds, 
was  about  as  grand  a  sight  as  I  ever  saw  the  sun 
rise  upon.  This  one  called  Maui  and  said  to 
be  uninhabited,  presents  an  appearance  of  having 
been  thrown  up  by  some  grand  volcanic  emotion 
of  nature.  Soon  wc  saw  another  island  to  which 
there  is  no  name  that  I  wot  of,  which  had  pretty 
much  the  same  appearance  as  the  last,  with  its 
bald  knobs,  bleak  hills,  and  deep  fissures  or  ra- 
vines, and  I  longed  to  be  out  on  those  hills,  and 
examine  their  hidden  mysteries.  After  noon  we 
saw  another,  and  as  we  sailed  along  apparently 
in  a  half  mile,  they're  really  5  or  6  miles  distant, 
we  could  plainly  see  trees,  and  with  the  aid  of 
the  Captain's  telescope,  houses,  until  we  made  out 
a  considerable  town  which  is  called  Lahaina. 
From  our  position  the  houses  appeared  on  the 
very  edge  of  the  water  under  those  bold  and  rug- 
ged hills.  Next  we  saw  Oahu,  where  we  were 
to  stop,  but  as  the  Captain  had  never  been  there, 
he  kept  beating  off  and  on  all  night.  I  watched 
the  sun  go  down  behind  a  huge  hill.  Saw  the 
Queen  of  Night  take  his  place,  and  laid  me  down 
to  sleep  and  dream. 

TUESDAY,  JULY  i6th.  Arising  with  the  sun 
this  morning  I  found  the  Cachalot  standing  in 
for  the  harbor  of  Honolulu,  where  we  arrived 
about  10.  During  the  morning  all  hands  were 
busy  brushing  up,  overhauling  trunks,  bags,  etc., 


94  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

and  putting  on  their  best  apparel  before  going 
ashore.  White  shirts  that  had  not  seen  the  light 
since  leaving  Panama,  and  a  few,  very  few  black 
boots,  made  their  appearance,  and  soon  all  of  us 
had  on  our  best  harness.  The  shores  of  this 
Island  before  running  into  harbor  were  bold  and 
rugged  as  the  others  we  had  seen,  with  an  occa- 
sional cave  or  valley,  where  we  could  see  groves 
of  the  cocoanut  trees.  The  most  amusing  looking 
objects  on  the  water  were  the  hundreds  of  little 
fishing  canoes,  sharp  at  both  ends,  with  from 
one  to  three  persons  of  both  sexes  in  them  skim- 
ming about  the  water,  as  they  were  endowed  with 
life.  They  had  a  piece  of  plank  or  board  across 
them,  about  midway,  to  prevent  their  capsizing, 
but  even  with  this  they  are  the  smallest  and  un- 
safest  looking  craft  to  go  to  sea  in  I  ever  saw, 
and  which  I  would  not  venture  far  in,  tho'  it  is 
said  they  go  out  5  or  6  miles,  and  sometimes  even 
to  the  adjacent  islands.  As  soon  as  our  vessel 
came  in  distance  a  pilot  came  out,  and  run  us  into 
harbor,  about  one  mile  from  town  where  the  an- 
chor was  cast  loose  and  brought  us  to  anchorage. 
Immediately  our  ship  was  inundated  with  a  motley 
set  of  beings  as  eye  ever  saw,  proffering  to  sell 
us  fruits,  melons  and  milk,  and  other  things  of 
like  nature;  while  others  were  anxious  to  convey 
us  ashore  for  the  small  sum  of  one  dollar  each. 
The  boatmen  were  from  all  nations,  and  as  each 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  95 

and  all  were  talking  and  bargaining  at  the  same 
time  it  was  almost  impossible  to  hear,  or  see  any- 
thing satisfactorily.  Myself  and  crowd  with  L — 
and  C —  of  N.O.  finally  chartered  a  snug  little 
craft  called  the  Rob  Roy,  and  bestowing  our 
baggage  first  and  ourselves  next  in  it,  we  were 
soon  riding  the  waves  with  an  exuberance  of 
spirit  we  had  not  felt  for  many  a  day.  There 
was  quite  a  fleet  of  ships  in  harbor  with  their  na- 
tional flags  displayed,  of  which  the  Star  Spangled 
Banner  was  to  me  the  most  attractive,  as  it  was 
so  long  since  I  had  gazed  upon  it,  that  its  very 
sight  made  me  feel  as  if  I  had  met  an  old  acquain- 
tance. As  soon  as  the  boat  touched  the  wharf  I 
leaped  ashore  the  first  one  from  old  Bedford, 
with  almost  a  feeling  of  reverence  and  adoration 
for  old  mother  earth.  The  custom  house  officer 
eyed  my  little  carpet  bag  in  which  there  was 
change  of  linen,  and  some  that  needed  soap  and 
water,  pretty  close,  but  said  nothing  to  me,  but 
some  that  had  trunks  or  suspicious  looking 
bundles  he  overhauled.  To  our  right  as  we 
landed  is  the  remnant  of  a  very  nice  fort  and  a 
few  pieces  of  cannon,  which  the  French  a  short 
time  ago,  used  very  roughly,  for  after  demolish- 
ing the  fort  and  spiking  the  guns  they  removed 
and  otherwise  disfigured  various  appurtenances 
thereto  belonging.  The  cause  of  all  this  was 
because  the  Official  belonging  to  the  government 


96  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

refused  to  permit  a  cargo  o^  French  brandy  to 
be  landed  for  the  benefit  of  the  minister  and 
consul  of  the  French  republic.  The  excitement 
at  the  time  was  very  great,  and  the  French  had 
threatened  to  fire  on  the  town  from  a  man  of  war 
that  was  lying  in  the  harbor,  but  just  in  the  nick 
of  time  the  U.S.  sloop  of  war  Preble  came  into 
port,  and  the  Captain  learning  the  difficulty,  told 
the  Frenchmen  that  with  their  quarrel  he  had 
nothing,  but  if  he  injured  an  American,  either  in 
person  or  property  to  the  extent  of  a  farthing  by 
firing  into  the  town,  he  would  open  a  broadside 
on  him  and  sink  him  where  he  lay.  This  cooled 
the  Frenchman's  fire,  and  finding  they  could  get 
revenge  in  no  way,  they  landed  and  destroyed 
the  fort.  On  our  left  was  the  Customhouse, 
built  of  coral  rock  and  looking  very  pretty,  while 
a  little  farther  on  our  right  again  was  a  large 
house  going  up,  the  lower  part  of  which  was  to 
be  a  market  place,  and  the  upper  to  be  used  as 
a  customhouse,  the  other  being  to  small.  We 
had  proceeded  but  a  short  distance  before  we 
came  to  booths  where  all  kinds  of  tempting  look- 
ing fruits  were  displayed  for  sale,  and  the  way 
we  pitched  into  them,  and  pitched  them  into  us, 
was  on  the  fast  order.  Melons,  grapes,  juicy  and 
luscious,  plantains,  bananas,  figs,  bread  fruit 
and  cocoanuts  suffered  smartly.  After  surfeiting 
the  appetite,   we  proceeded  to   Captain   Carter's 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  97 

a  Bostonlan,  and  engaged  board,  during  our  stay 
on  the  Island  at  $2  per  day,  without  lodging, 
and  then  a  rented  room  at  $3.00  per  week  for 
lodging;  so  taking  possession  of  it  we  found  3 
or  4  good  looking  beds,  a  cot  or  two,  several 
chairs,  water  and  bowl,  a  looking  glass,  several 
pictures,  one  of  Pres.  Polk,  and  other  little  things 
necessary  for  comfort  and  ornament.  Two  o'clock 
brought  dinner,  and  as  it  was  of  the  very  best 
order,  my  appetite  good,  and  a  long,  long  time 
since  I  sat  down  to  so  well  spread  a  board,  it  is 
one  of  the  certainties  that  I  did  ample  justice 
to  it,  and  m.y  companions  were  not  lacking  in 
the  attentions  they  bestowed  to  the  various 
dishes  set  before  them.  It  was  a  real  American 
dinner,  and  as  Americans  we  did  it  ample  justice. 
After  indulging  in  a  siesta  for  a  couple  of  hours, 
we  started  out  to  see  the  town,  the  people  and 
sights  generally.  The  King  whose  name  is  Hame- 
hamaha,  or  something  like  it,  lives  in  a  fine  house 
built  of  coral  stone  and  American  Lumber,  and 
with  its  observatory,  its  vine  clad  porticoes,  grav- 
eled walks,  and  beautiful  shrubbery,  was  the  cool- 
est, neatest  and  most  tastily  arranged  place  I  had 
seen  for  many  a  day.  The  English  and  Ameri- 
cans of  whom  there  are  quite  a  number  live  in 
much  better  style  than  the  natives,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  few  chiefs,  whose  houses  are  tastily  built 
and  ornamented,  while  all  or  nearly  all  have  beau- 


98  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

tiful  trees  and  shrubbery  around  them.  Some 
of  the  streets  are  wide  and  well  laid  out,  as  re- 
gards straightness,  but  many  are  narrow  and  in- 
tersect each  other  at  all  sorts  of  angles.  While 
sauntering  about  with  no  particular  object  in  view 
my  attention  was  attracted  to  a  stylish  looking 
female,  who  came  out  of  a  house  just  ahead  of 
me,  and  went  tripping  along  before  me  for  some 
distance.  Her  dress  appeared  to  be  of  the  finest 
silk  with  flounces  and  other  fixings  that  the  female 
sex  adorn  themselves  with.  A  little  hat  set  jaunti- 
ly on  her  head  gave  her  a  rather  coquettish  ap- 
pearance, while  her  feet  encased  in  embroidered 
slippers  without  stockings  showed  a  well  turned 
ankle  and  foot  etc.  Whilst  I  was  admiring  her 
appearance  she  met  an  acquaintance  dressed  in 
the  same  style,  when  they  both  sat  right  down 
in  the  middle  of  the  street  in  the  dirt  to  hold  a 
confab.  Well  thinks  I  to  myself,  here's  a  go. 
What  would  one  of  our  Tennessee  belles  say  to 
this;  and  so  I  passed  on  with  the  old  saying  of 
"live  and  learn",  forcibly  impressed  on  my  mind. 
Many  of  the  houses  are  surrounded  by  high  walls 
built  of  sun  burnt  bricks  and  even  some  of  the 
houses  are  built  of  the  same  material,  but  by 
far  the  greater  part  of  the  lower  class  of  natives 
live  in  houses  built  of  cane  and  palm  and  covered 
with  the  palm  leaf,  and  a  kind  of  grass  that  grows 
luxuriantly    here.      In    noticing    the    native    men, 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  99 

they  appeared  indolent  and  contented  with  them- 
selves and  the  rest  of  mankind,  and  to  a  casual 
observer  were  heavy,  well  set,  strong,  able  bodied 
men,  but  owing  to  some  unrevealed  cause  they  are 
not  long  lived  and  are  inclined  to  obesity  as  they 
grow  old.  In  fact  there  are  but  few  children 
raised  and  the  population  is  rapidly  passing  away. 
There  is  something  strange  in  the  fact  that  wher- 
ever the  Christian  religion  has  established  itself, 
the  original  inhabitants  are  passing  very  fast 
away  and  from  present  indications  the  Indians  of 
North  America  and  the  Kanakas  of  the  Hawaiian 
Islands  will  soon  be  numbered  with  things  that 
were.  The  natives  of  both  sexes  are  subject  to 
scrofula,  and  its  concomitant  evils,  and  whole 
families  are  frequently  hurried  by  it  to  the  grave. 
Before  sunset  I  saw  many  of  the  native  women 
taking  their  evening  ride,  which  they  do  on  the 
same  saddles,  and  in  the  same  way  as  the  males, 
and  with  their  flowing  skirts,  flying  ribbons,  neat 
little  riding  hats,  and  the  John  Gilpin  speed  at 
which  they  go,  was  another  new  feature  to  me  in 
appearance  and  amusement.  My  landlady  told 
me  I  should  see  them  of  a  Saturday,  as  that  was 
the  day  on  which  the  whole  population  that  could 
afford  it  were  on  horseback,  going  it  at  a  real 
breakneck  speed.  At  the  supper  table  I  made 
the  acquaintance  of  a  Dr.  Newcomb  who  went 
out  to  California  from  Albany,  N.Y.  and  after 


100  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

remaining  there  long  enough  for  the  company  of 
which  he  was  a  member  to  break  up,  and  spending 
a  good  deal  of  money  and  losing  his  health  went 
over  to  the  Island  of  Oahu.  The  Dr.  and  his 
family  have  been  in  Honolulu  some  three  or  four 
months,  and  he  is  now  doing  a  very  good  business 
in  his  profession.  After  having  a  long  talk  with 
him  about  California,  the  Islands  and  its  people 
I  went  with  him  to  see  some  of  his  patients.  Into 
one  or  two  of  the  houses  of  the  Chiefs  or  nobles 
I  found  everything  neatly  and  tastily  arranged. 
The  floors  were  thickly  covered  with  matting  of 
all  hues  and  textures,  from  the  coarsest  door 
mats  to  the  finest  of  material.  They  have  but  few 
and  many  indeed  have  no  chairs,  and  their  beds 
are  frequently  composed  entirely  of  matting. 
They  sit  flat  down  to  eat  or  entertain  their  visi- 
tors, and  apparently  enjoy  themselves  hugely  when 
an  American  calls  to  see  them.  I  sat  down  along- 
side of  a  young  woman  who  offered  me  fruits,  wa- 
ter and  cakes,  and  who  appeared  well  pleased 
with  me  in  every  respect  but  one,  and  that  was, 
I  did  not  nor  could  not  talk  to  her,  for  which  I 
made  amends. by  thinking  most  prodigiously.  I 
saw  a  good  deal  of  Chinese  furniture  in  some  of 
the  houses,  such  as  table  work  boxes,  and  curi- 
ously carved  and  strangely  shaped  chairs.  The 
Dr.'s  family  being  out  in  the  country  he  invited 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  lOi 

me  to  share  his  bed,  an  invitation  which  T  very 
readily  accepted,  and  made  use  of. 
WEDNESDAY  JULY  17th.  Arose  from  a 
most  refreshing  sleep  as  my  bed  was  superior  to 
anything  I  have  slept  on  since  leaving  home,  a 
nice  room,  well  carpeted  floor,  clean  sheets,  mos- 
quito bar  and  in  fact  everything  was  neat  and 
comfortable,  all  proving  beyond  the  shadow  of  a 
doubt  that  a  woman's  eye  and  woman's  hand  had 
the  surveillance  and  arranging  of  it.  After  break- 
fast went  out  to  the  ship  to  arrange  things,  and 
have  some  washing  done,  which  I  paid  $1.00  a 
dozen  for.  Going  over  the  town  I  found  most  of 
the  business  done  by  Americans  and  English,  with 
a  right  smart  chance  of  French,  Chinese  and  Span- 
ish; while  I  met  many  invalids  from  California, 
of  all  nations,  who  came  here  to  recruit  as  the 
climate  and  living  is  yet  far  superior  to  anything 
in  that  gold  hunting  country,  and  will  I  doubt  not 
be  a  rendezvous  for  the  sick  of  California  when 
a  line  of  steamers  is  established  between  the  two 
countries.  Saw  but  very  little  drunkenness,  and 
that  little  was  mostly  tars  or  strangers  here,  and 
but  few  drinking  houses  and  public  gaming  estab- 
lishments. The  Californians  give  a  different  ac- 
count of  the  gold  country  than  what  we  heard  in 
the  States,  and  if  they  tell  the  truth  few  men 
would  leave  comfortable  homes  in  the  States  to 


102  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

try  for  a  fortune  in  the  Western  Eldorado.  Wages 
are  very  good,  and  a  man  can  live  well  and  lay 
up  some  money  for  a  rainy  day,  by  being  indus- 
trious and  economical.  Capitalists  have  the 
same  advantage  here  as  elsewhere,  and  some  few 
who  purchased  property  a  few  years  ago  are  now 
realizing  handsome  profits  from  it,  as  its  value 
is  greatly  increased  since  the  opening  of  the  Cali- 
fornia market  for  all  the  surplus  productions  of 
the  Island.  Some  Americans,  English  and  French 
have  married  among  the  natives,  and  their  influ- 
ence is  seen  and  felt  in  the  bustling  activity  and 
go  ahead  business  way;  so  different  from  the  na- 
tives a  few  years  ago,  in  fact  civilization  is  far- 
ther advanced  here  than  on  the  Isthmus,  and  the 
sobriety  and  good  order  of  the  native  inhabitants 
is  superior  to  many  who  call  themselves  and  pro- 
fess to  be  Christians,  in  some  of  the  States.  The 
Missionary  influence  is  felt  here  and  seen  in  the 
affairs  of  government,  and  some  who  are  envious 
of  the  influence  and  popularity  of  Dr.  Judd,  go 
so  far  as  to  say  that  when  the  Dr.  takes  a  pinch 
of  snuff  the  King  sneezes.  Be  that  as  it  may, 
Dr.  Judd  is  a  man  of  considerable  influence  on 
this  Island,  to  prove  which  he  is  at  this  time  Min- 
ister Plenipotentiary,  Extraordinary  etc.  to  the 
court  of  St.  James.  The  Constitution  and  prin- 
ciple of  this  government  is  something  like  the 
U.  S.  modified  to  suit  a  half  way  monarchy.   The 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  103 

present  King — the  third  of  his  line  is  a  well  in- 
formed colored  gentleman,  noted  for  his  physical 
strength,  love  of  brandy  and  the  opposite  sex. 
He  has  no  children  by  his  Queen,  but  has  adopted 
a  nephew  who  will  fall  heir  to  the  throne  should 
he  die  childless,  John  Young,  an  Englishman 
by  descent  is  premier,  and  is  son  of  the  man  who 
was  mainly  instrumental  in  placing  the  first  king 
on  the  throne  and  establishing  the  present  form 
of  government. 

JULY  1 8th.  From  indulging  so  freely  for  the 
two  last  days  in  eatables,  I  was  very  sick  all 
night  and  this  morning  feel  too  unwell  to  go  to 
breakfast,  so  under  the  advice  of  Dr.  N.  I  made 
my  breakfast  on  Sub.  Mur.  Hydrang.  and  Dov. 
pulv.  and  dinner  on  oleum  Ricini,  and  lay  abed 
all  day.  In  the  afternoon  some  of  my  friends  not 
seeing  me  out,  called  to  know  what  was  the  mat- 
ter, and  found  me  stretched  on  a  sofa  in  the  Dr's 
parlor  reading  and  sleeping  alternately.  The 
Doctor's  wife  and  daughter  who  was  quite  pretty, 
came  in  and  were  taken  all  aback  by  finding  a 
stranger  making  himself  so  free  and  easy  in  their 
house  in  their  absence.  I  introduced  myself,  and 
told  them  the  Dr.  was  accountable  for  my  presence 
and  any  damages  I  had  done,  and  that  as  he  was 
absent  I  would  try  and  entertain  in  their  own 
house  to  the  best  of  my  poor  ability.  We  soon 
were  laughing  and  talking  like  old  acquaintances. 


104  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

and  when  they  rose  to  return  inviting  me  out  to 
see  them,  I  felt  a  loneliness  steal  over  me,  that 
was  worse  than  if  I  had  not  seen  such  bright  eyes 
and  kindly  smiles. 

FRIDAY  JULY  19th.  Feeling  comfortable  this 
morning  I  went  to  breakfast,  and  heard  from  my 
friends  that  the  Captain  of  our  vessel  requested 
all  the  passengers  to  be  on  board  by  10  P.M. 
So  as  this  was  our  last  day  on  shore  I  spent  it  in 
seeing  the  remainder  of  things  unseen.  With 
Dr.  N —  I  visited  a  large  garden  and  saw  among 
other  things  useful  and  ornamental,  inc  Tarra 
a  species  of  Potato,  something  like  the  Yam 
growing  in  abundance.  The  land  for  cultivating 
the  Tarra  is  dug  out  or  down  several  inches,  the 
water  let  on  it  and  allowed  to  remain  for  several 
days;  it  is  then  drained  off,  the  ground  beaten 
down  hard,  when  the  plant  is  set  out  and  watered 
by  irrigation  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year.  The 
Indigo  plant  is  cultivated  quite  successfully,  and 
as  to  coffee  it  is  cultivated  enough  for  home  con- 
sumption, and  forms  a  considerable  source  of 
revenue  by  exportation  to  California,  and  other 
heathen  countries.  The  valley  extending  several 
miles  from  the  City  to  the  mountains  is  rich  and 
prolific,  well  watered  and  in  a  high  state  of  culti- 
vation. The  most  of  the  water  used  is  brought 
from  the  mountain  through  the  valley,  where 
they  have  pools  and  cascades,  and  where  the  na- 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  105 

tives  indulge  in  bathing.  There  are  some  wells 
in  the  City  for  drinking  water  but  the  larger  part 
of  that  is  brought  from  the  valley  in  Calabashes 
or  large  gourds  on  the  heads  and  backs  of  na- 
tives. The  citizens  are  building  a  large  pool 
or  reservoir,  which  will  be  filled  by  pipes  from 
the  springs  above,  and  thus  supply  the  town  with 
plenty  of  pure  sweet  water.  A  good  many  of 
our  passengers  were  on  horseback  today  riding 
over  the  town  and  into  the  country,  and  there  is 
one  place  some  5  or  6  miles  out  richly  worth 
visiting.  You  leave  the  City  and  ride  through 
the  valley,  with  its  small  farms,  fine  gardens  and 
neat  cottage  houses  until  you  strike  the  mountains 
when  the  road  narrows  down  to  a  single  track, 
shut  in  on  each  side  by  overhanging  precipices 
and  hills.  After  going  thus  for  several  miles,  the 
road  becoming  more  narrow  and  the  hills  more 
rugged,  you  are  brought  to  a  halt  by  what  appears 
to  be  the  end  of  the  road,  while  far  down  below 
you  is  a  beautiful  valley,  green  with  verdure  and 
dotted  with  houses.  The  hills  rise  up  on  all 
sides  nearly  perpendicular,  and  you  are  at  a  loss 
to  know  how  the  people  down  there  ever  get  out, 
but  after  becoming  a  little  accustomed  to  the 
strangeness  of  the  scene,  you  can  spy  the  road 
winding  along  the  sides  of  the  hills,  until  it  finally 
dips  down  into  the  valley.  To  stand  upon  the 
edge  of  the  precipice,  and  gaze  down  on  to  active 


io6  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

bustling  life  below,  while  all  around  is  stern  rug- 
ged and  grand — one  can  almost  imagine  that  a 
violent  commotion  of  mother  earth  produced 
the  strange  scene  upon  which  you  are  gazing,  and 
that  the  green  vale  at  your  feet  was  once  the 
center  of  an  active  volcano,  belching  forth  smoke, 
fire  and  red  hot  molten  lava.  Such  I  think  was 
the  cause  of  the  strange  scene  upon  which  we  are 
now  gazing,  and  the  appearance  of  the  hills  and 
mountains  all  strengthen  such  a  conclusion,  as 
they  one  and  all  present  the  appearance  of  having 
been  formed  by  volcanic  eruptions.  Just  back  of 
the  City  is  an  old  fort,  now  nearly  in  ruins,  upon 
which  are  kept  a  few  pieces  of  old  cannon  to  make 
a  noise  with  on  national  days;  and  here  it  was 
that  the  big  and  first  fight  occurred  that  subjected 
the  original  inhabitants  to  the  present  form  of 
government,  and  here  is  the  place  where  Young, 
the  Englishman  showed  such  superior  skill  and 
daring  and  courage,  for  which  the  King  when  once 
firmly  established  on  the  throne  so  nobly  and 
richly  rewarded  him.  Saw  several  missionary, 
Methodist  preachers  today  and  conversed  with 
them  on  and  about  the  Islands.  The  Americans 
or  at  least  some  of  them  say  that  the 
Missionaries  are  worse  than  the  Catholics  in 
exacting  tithes  from  the  natives,  and  that  in  this 
way  they  have  acquired  and  own  some  of  the  best 
lands  and  property  on  the  Island,  and  that  in  this 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  107 

way   for   their   own   aggrandizement,    under   the 
cloak  of  religion  they  are  fast  acquiring  the  best 
property  on  the  Islands,  to  the  detriment  of  com- 
merce  and  trade   and  the   injury  of  the  people. 
Saw  the  sugar  cane  growing,  and  was  told  that 
four  crops  were  raised  from  one  planting,   and 
that  some  enterprising  men  having  engaged  in  the 
business,  it  would  soon  form  a  considerable  source 
of  revenue  to  the  government,  and  profit  to  the 
growers.     There  are  several  very  good  and  sub- 
stantial looking  churches  in  the  City  built  of  coral 
stone,  and  upon  the  top  of  one  I  noticed  the  cross 
of  the  Catholics.    Wherever  I  have  been  yet  that 
cross  is  seen  and  its  slaves  and  votaries  are  scat- 
tered the  wide  world  o'er  doing  the  will  not  of 
God,  but  of  the  Pope  who  claims  to  be  the  repre- 
sentative of  the  Most  High.   Strolled  into  a  house 
of  one  of  the  chiefs  again  today,  and  found  them 
sitting  flat   on   their  mats,   eating  and  drinking. 
I  declined  the  invitation  to  join,  and  soon  took 
my  leave  to  prepare  for  embarking  once  more  on 
the  restless  waters  of  the  old  Pacific.    The  Chil- 
dren  of  Americans  who  were  born   here   speak 
both  languages  very  fluently,  in  fact  Mrs.  Carter 
told  me  that  her  children  preferred  the  Kanaka 
language  and  would  talk  to  their  nurse  rather  than 
her  about  what  they  saw  and  heard.     Dr.  N — 
presented  me  some  pretty  shells  obtained  from 
this  and  some  other  of  the  islands,  also  some  me- 


io8  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

dicinals  and  papers  which  I  packed  away  and 
then  went  out  to  make  some  purchases  of  articles 
necessary  for  a  sea  voyage.  Mix,  one  of  my  mess 
is  and  has  been  very  sick  while  on  shore,  so  after 
seeing  him  and  directing  some  comforts  and  con- 
diments for  him  on  board  I  left  promising  to  see 
him  again  on  board  by  8  or  9  o'clock.  Just  before 
sunset  I  left  the  few  kind  friends  I  had  made  in 
the  City,  and  stepped  into  a  boat  with  my  com- 
panions and  we  were  soon  alongside  of  our  ship, 
the  dirtiest  looking  one  in  the  harbor  which  was 
to  be  our  home  for  an  indefinite  number  of  days. 
All  was  bustle  and  confusion  on  board,  passen- 
gers coming  on,  each  bringing  something  in  the 
way  of  eatables  to  make  up  for  the  bad  fare  which 
they  knew  we  would  receive  when  once  more 
afloat.  The  water  casks  were  all  filled,  a  fresh 
supply  of  meat  and  vegetables  and  a  goat  for  the 
Lady  Captain.  My  bunk  was  so  different  from 
the  Dr's  quarters  on  shore  that  it  was  midnight 
before  I  could  manage  to  sleep,  and  that  was  not 
more  than  half  done. 

SATURDAY  JULY  20th.  Instead  of  feeling 
the  motion  of  a  vessel  cutting  the  waters  this 
morning,  all  was  still  when  I  awoke,  and  on  rising 
found  we  were  swinging  at  anchor  as  when  I  lay 
down.  Nearly  as  soon  as  light,  quite  a  fleet  of 
boats  came  out  loaded  with  melons,  fruits  etc. 
and    a    brisk    business    commenced    between    the 


Notes   on  Land  and  Sea  109 

passengers  and  natives.  As  my  supplies  were  all 
on  board  I  took  a  position  where  I  could  see  and 
hear  all  that  was  going  on,  and  enjoyed  a  few 
hearty  laughs  at  the  expense  of  some  of  my  fellow 
passengers.  At  10  A.M.  the  Captain's  yawl, 
which  had  been  uptown  for  some  papers  returned 
and  was  hauled  up  and  word  was  given  to  weigh 
anchor.  Some  of  our  passengers  had  been  instru- 
mental in  procuring  passage  for  a  man  by  the 
name  of  Camp  who  was  out  on  the  Islands  re- 
cruiting his  health,  which  had  suffered  seriously 
in  the  mines  of  California,  and  now  wished  to  re- 
turn. K —  became  acquainted  with  him  and  in- 
vited him  to  join  our  mess,  which  he  did.  The 
heave,  ho,  he  of  the  sailors  announced  that  the 
anchor  was  on  its  way  from  the  coral  bottom  of 
the  bay,  and  soon  it  hove  in  sight.  The  sails 
were  squared  away  and  catching  the  breeze  filled, 
and  as  the  old  ship  obeyed  her  helm  we  were  once 
more  afloat  on  the  deep  blue  waters.  Looking  at 
the  sailors  at  work  I  spied  a  strange  face,  and 
learned  that  he  had  shipped  for  Francisco,  work- 
ing his  passage.  The  passengers  generally  were 
scattered  about  in  little  groups  over  the  vessel, 
talking  of  their  visit  to  Honolulu,  and  as  each 
had  some  particular  story  to  tell  of  what  he  saw, 
heard  and  did,  many  a  hearty  laugh  would  ring 
out  above  the  noise  of  the  flapping  sails,  and 
rippling  waters.    On  leaving  anchorage  our  course 


no  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

was  due  west  until  late  in  the  afternoon  when 
we  changed  a  little  to  the  North.  Some  con- 
siderable mountains  hove  in  sight  as  we  rounded 
the  western  portion  of  Oahu,  presenting  about 
the  same  appearance  as  others  we  had  seen,  bleak, 
barren  and  desolate.  The  wind  gradually  in- 
creased until  towards  sunset  when  it  blew  a  con- 
siderable gale,  and  soon  after  the  last  headland 
disappeared,  the  alarming  cry  of  "man  over- 
board" was  heard.  For  a  moment  every  man  ap- 
peared to  be  paralyzed  and  stunned,  then  hurried 
and  anxious  glances  were  cast  around  to  see  who 
was  missing — each  one  afraid  to  ask,  who  is  it, 
for  fear  it  should  prove  a  friend  or  brother.  Re- 
action was  as  sudden  as  the  shock,  and  immedi- 
ately hen-coops,  buckets,  chairs  and  such  things 
were  thrown  overboard  with  the  hope,  vain  tho' 
it  was,  that  some  of  them  would  drift  in  reach  of 
the  drowning  man.  As  quick  as  knives  could  cut 
ropes,  and  strongly  excited  men  could  throw  a 
boat  over,  the  yawl  was  into  the  sea,  when  three 
bold  daring  fellows  leaped  in  after  her.  They 
did  not  take  time  to  let  themselves  down  by 
ropes,  but  with  a  bound  they  were  in  the  boiling 
waters  striking  for  the  yawl  that  was  held  by  a 
line.  Oars,  and  a  bucket  to  bail  out  the  water 
were  thrown  them  and  they  cast  loose,  to  seek 
their  lost  companion.  All  eyes  were  strained 
to  see  the  poor  sailor,   the  ship  was  hauled  to 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  1 1 1 

and  trembled  like  a  frightened  bird,  while  the 
wind  blew  almost  a  hurricane.  The  little  boat 
with  her  noble  crew  occasionally  seen  on  a  moun- 
tain wave,  then  disappeared  as  tho  she  too  had 
found  a  watery  grave.  The  sailor  was  a  French- 
man, the  pride  of  the  officers  and  crew,  as  well 
as  the  favorite  of  the  passengers,  and  had  gone 
over  the  bows  to  take  in  some  clothing,  which 
was  getting  wet  by  the  waves  and  spray,  and 
while  holding  on  with  one  hand  a  mountain  wave 
struck  him,  and  washed  him  off  the  ropes,  and 
before  he  could  recover  another  huge  sea  swept 
him  from  his  hold  into  the  water.  He  was  seen 
as  he  went  down  by  the  side  of  the  ship,  and  once 
some  distance  behind  her,  then  the  waters  closed 
over  him  and  his  spirit  had  winged  its  way  to  the 
place  of  Judgment.  The  night  was  closing  rapidly 
around  us,  and  fears  were  entertained  about  the 
yawl  and  crew,  but  soon  she  made  her  appearance 
and  was  hauled  up  on  deck,  her  crew  exhausted 
with  the  almost  herculean  efforts  they  had  under- 
gone. The  wind  whistled  and  moaned  through 
the  rigging  as  tho'  it  were  wailing  the  lost  spirit 
of  him  who  was  so  suddenly  snatched  from  our 
midst.  The  sails  were  once  more  set  and  the  old 
ship  riding  the  waves,  when  I  solemn  and  mel- 
ancholy retired  to  my  bunk. 


112  Notes   on  Land  and  Sea 

Begun  JULY  21st.,  1850—12  o'clock  PACIFIC 
OCEAN — Lat.  32;^,  Long.   16. 

1850 
SUNDAY,  JULY  21st,  1850.  With  the  com- 
mencement of  a  new  week,  1  commence  scribbling 
o'er  a  new  book — having  finished  one  with  the 
close  of  the  past  week,  and  Oh!  how  differently 
situated  I  am  now  than  when  I  commenced  the 
other  one.  Then  I  was  in  Tennessee  "on  the  wa- 
ter it  is  true" — but  on  a  small  stream  in  a  perfect 
floating  palace — now  I  am  in  the  wide,  wild  fath- 
omless sea — on  the  Pacific  Ocean — "the  largest 
in  the  World"  on  a  French  ship  commanded  by 
Capt.  DeGrand,  filthy  and  nauseous.  But  why 
go  on  thus?  We  are  all  in  for  it,  so  let's  not 
complain  but  make  the  best  we  can  out  of  a  bad 
bargain.  Another  Sabbath  has  rolled  around  and 
still  finds  us  on  the  dark  blue  sea  whiling  the 
hours  away  as  best  we  can.  Yesterday  evening's 
scene  was  the  most  terrible  I  ever  beheld;  death 
in  any  shape  has  its  horrors,  but  when  attended 
by  such  circumstances  as  we  saw  yesterday,  it 
was  truly  alarming.  Confusion  prevailed — all 
eyes  were  watching  for  the  poor  fellow  as  a  huge 
wave  would  lift  him  up  then  he  would  apparently 
sink  to  rise  no  more,  until  another  wave  would 
lift  him  about  the  boiling  waters  again.  The 
wind  whistled  and  moaned  through  the  rigging, 
the  waves  ran  high  and  nature  seemed  to  weep 


Notes   on  Land  and  Sea  I13 

for  the  lot  of  one  of  her  children.  The  little  boat 
that  was  launched  for  his  relief  without  success, 
rode  the  waves  with  her  gallant  crew  most  nobly. 
Sometimes  she  would  appear  to  be  gone,  then 
she  would  appear  on  the  top  of  a  mountain  wave 
as  though  she  were  leaping  from  one  to  another. 
She  returned  to  the  ship,  her  gallant  crew  wet 
and  nearly  exhausted  with  their  labors,  after  her 
unsuccessful  search  for  the  poor  sailor.  Today 
his  sad  and  unexpected  demise  is  the  theme  of 
conversation,  for  he  was  a  favorite  among  the 
passengers  as  well  as  the  Captain  and  crew. 

Last  night,  as  soon  as  we  cleared  the  Island, 
we  steered  a  north  course  varying  a  little  to  the 
westward,  as  the  wind  varied  and  today  finds  us 
going  the  same  course  with  a  stiff  wind  and  flowing 
sea.  Some  considerable  sickness,  "Diarrhea" 
among  the  passengers  this  morning  from  a  too 
free  indulgence  in  fresh  meats,  fruits,  vegetables, 
etc.  Mix  is  very  six  and  has  been  unwell  for 
three  or  four  weeks.  His  case  is  a  pretty  hard 
one  at  present.  Diarrhea,  cough,  headache  and 
fever.  Showery,  occasionally  with  a  stiff  N.E. 
wind  all  the  day — and  so  It  ended. 
MONDAY,  JULY  22,  1850.  Arose  this  morn- 
ing and  found  the  old  "Cachalot"  going  finely, 
the  wind  coming  from  the  same  quarter  as  yester- 
day. The  sea  Is  rough  and  navigating  the  decks 
is  very  hard  to  do.     M.  is  no  better  and  suffers 


114  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

considerably  from  having  to  lie  in  such  a  confined 
and  unwholesome  place  as  the  hold  of  this  ship. 
No  comforts  and  conveniences  for  a  sick  person 
renders  his  condition  as  unpleasant  as  can  be 
imagined.  Showery  again  today  with  cold  wind  in 
the  night  and  morning.  We  have  now  got  north 
of  old  Sol  once  more  and  the  clouds  and  wind 
begin  to  look  and  feel  like  home.  This,  and  the 
last  two  days  have  closed  with  a  squall,  wind  and 
rain,  making  overcoats  comfortable.  The  moon 
shines  bright  but  has  not  that  brilliant  lustre  it 
had,  to  me,  when  we  were  in  the  torrid  zone. 
To  bed — to  sleep  and  dream. 
TUESDAY,  JULY  23,  1850.  Cool  and  clear 
this  morning  with  the  same  wind,  our  old  vessel 
going  North  making  a  little  westing  occasionally 
as  the  wind  varies.  Cool  but  pure  air.  Sickness 
gradually  disappearing  with  the  exception  of 
"S"  who  has  been  sick  nearly  all  the  voyage,  and 
"M"  who  is  worse  this  morning.  I  invited  Dr. 
"Y"  to  see  him.  He  did  so  and  we  decided  to 
vesicate  his  cervix  and  lower  extremities,  continu- 
ing about  the  same  treatment — otherwise  upon 
which  I  had  placed  him.  The  excitement  of  visit- 
ing the  Island,  together  with  the  fresh  fruit  is 
pretty  well  gone,  and  we  have  all  got  down  to  our 
old  way  of  living  and  passing  the  time.  Wormy 
bread,  salt  pork  and  beef,  bad  coffee  and  worse 
tea,    comprise    our   living   as    usual.      While    we 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  115 

wash  our  eating  utensils  as  before  landing,  so 
passes  the  day  and  night  comes  on. 
WEDNESDAY,  JULY  24,  1850.  Arose  this 
morning  about  breakfast  time  and  found  our  old 
ship  ploughing  along  as  for  the  last  few  days, 
with  the  exception  of  bearing  a  little  to  the  east 
instead  of  west,  the  wind  having  slightly  varied. 
We  are  now  considerably  westward  of  the  S.W. 
Islands,  "farther  West  than  I  ever  was  before" 
and  if  I  had  my  way,  would  go  east,  our  destina- 
tion being  that  way  from  where  we  now  are. 
"M"  is  slightly  better  this  morning,  the  medi- 
cine and  blisters  having  acted  as  we  anticipated. 
Today,  we  have  more  squalls,  rain  and  wind. 
Yesterday  evening  we  had  a  squall  about  supper 
time,  which  wound  up  the  day,  as  the  days  have 
all  ended  since  leaving  the  S.W.  Islands.  Since 
leaving  the  Islands  the  Captain  has  been  so  liberal 
as  to  give  us  cabbages  and  pumpkins.  He  gives 
out  FOUR  cabbage  heads  and  one  or  two  small 
pumpkins  or  squashes  for  163  passengers — "Aint 
that  liberal!"  which  was  boiled  with  the  beans  or 
peas  in  the  form  of  soup,  so  that  a  mess  of  ten 
men  would  get  about  one  leaf  and  a  piece  of 
squash  as  large  as  a  dollar.  Oh!  most  liberal 
Capt.  LeGrand!  we  the  passengers  will  long  re- 
member thy  generosity  and  liberality!  Saw  a 
bird  this  evening  called  an  Albatros;  a  large 
black  looking  bird.     Extracted   a   Grinder   for 


il6  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

"K".  As  we  were  eating  our  supper  of  tea  and 
sweet  potatoes,  another  squall  came  up,  then  old 
Sol  went  to  rest  and  the  moon  took  his  place. 
THURSDAY,  JULY  25,  1850.  Cloudy  and 
showery,  our  ship  heading  nearly  east  but  not 
wind  enough  to  make  headway.  We  have  got 
where  the  weather  is  more  changeable,  something 
like  home,  cool  and  hot,  rain  and  sunshine  all 
the  same  day.  "M"  is  about  as  yesterday,  some 
febrile  excitement  existing  this  morning.  A  suc- 
cession of  little  squalls  and  calms  so  that  we 
make  no  headway.  It  appears  that  we  have  run 
out  of  the  trade  winds  that  prevail  around  the 
S.W.  Islands,  our  latitude  to-day  being  about 
33°,  Longitude,  I  don't  know,  somewhere  about 
160,  I  guess,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  next 
steady  wind  we  have  will  carry  us  to  our  destined 
port.  About  noon  to-day,  some  of  the  passengers 
caught  a  large  bird,  very  much  like  a  wild  goose, 
which  sailors  call  a  "stinker".  It  has  very  long 
wings,  measuring  something  like  four  feet  across. 
Web  feet,  and  legs  nearly  a  foot  in  length, 
large  neck  and  head  with  a  heavy  bill  turned 
down  at  the  point.  It  is  the  same  bird  which 
some  of  the  passengers  yesterday  called  an  Alba- 
tros.  The  feathers  are  of  a  dark  color  and  on 
the  whole  there  is  very  little  beauty  about  the 
"varmint"  or  a  bird.  Tacked  ship  soon  after 
dinner  and   stood   S.E.   until   supper  time,   when 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  117 

tacked  again  and  stood  about  the  same  course  as 
for  the  last  four  days.  No  wind  though  to  make 
any  headway  no  matter  what  course  the  old 
"Cachalot"  turns  her  head.  The  sun  set  in  the 
JVest  as  usual  and  up  rose  the  full  round  moon, 
which  brings  night. 

FRIDAY,  JULY  26,  1850.  Going  on  deck  this 
morning,  I  found  the  sun  dead  ahead  of  us,  the 
Captain  having  tacked  ship  again,  some  time  tiur- 
ing  the  night.  Wind  light,  so  light  that  we  ap- 
pear to  be  standing  still  in  the  same  place  we 
have  been  standing  for  the  last  two  days.  At 
least  it  looks  so  to  me.  What  an  improvement  iri 
navigation  it  would  be  to  have  Mile  stones  and 
Sign  boards  stuck  up  all  over  the  Ocean,  we  could 
see  then  how  far  we  travel  in  a  day  and  whether 
or  not  we  were  going  right.  As  it  is,  we  can't 
tell,  the  sea  appears  the  same  all  over  when  we 
are  out  of  sight  of  land.  The  same  blue  looking 
water  and  sky  the  same  boundless  expanse  of 
the  great  deep.  A  squall  may  disturb  the  seren- 
ity of  old  Ocean's  brow  for  a  minute  or  so,  then 
all  is  calm  again.  "M"  is  in  Statu  Quo — the  in- 
fluence of  "steerage  air"  appears  to  counteract 
the  good  effects  of  medicine  so  that  it  is  difficult 
to  obtain  the  full  effect  of  any  medicine  we  can 
use  in  such  a  confined  atmosphere.  The  constant 
noise  and  buzz  arising  "necessarily"  from  so 
many  passengers  crowded  as  we  are,  is  little  cal- 


Ii8  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

culated  to  do  a  sick  man  good,  to  minister  to  a 
mind  diseased  for  what  person  can  suffer  much 
bodily,  without  his  mind  becoming  "more  or  less 
affected" — No  one's.  To-day,  we  have  had  as 
near  a  calm  as  is  often  seen,  or  at  least  is  de- 
sirable to  one  sick  and  tired  of  this  long  voyage. 
In  the  afternoon,  some  of  the  passengers  amused 
themselves  with  hook  and  line  in  catching  those 
strange  looking  fowls  called  "stinkers".  The 
hooks  are  baited  and  thrown  over,  when  they 
catch  the  bait  and  swallow  it,  and  are  thus  drawn 
on  deck.  Quite  a  large  bird,  and  quite  vicious 
they  are  when  you  approach  near  to  them.  The 
Captain  Lady  was  out  of  her  room  for  the  first 
time  since  leaving  Panama,  having  been  sick  be-, 

fore  and  ever  since  I  came  on  board  this  d d 

old  craft.  Towards  night  the  wind  freshened 
up  and  our  old  bark  skimmed  along  finely  head- 
ing a  little  north  of  east,  the  right  course  for 
San  Francisco.  Finding  the  old  ship  could  sail 
as  well  if  I  was  asleep  as  awake  I  turned  in  and 
dozed  and  dreamed  away  the  night. 
SATURDAY,  JULY  27,  1850.  Cloudy  and 
rain  and  a  little  wind,  fair  but  light,  we  going  a 
little  north  of  east,  which  is  our  right  course  for 
the  land  of  Ophir.  As  this  is  my  wash  day  again, 
I  must  prepare  for  it  by  getting  things  in  readi- 
ness. The  Capt.  announced  to-day  that  he  would 
give  us,  "each  mess"  a  bottle  of  Brandy,  tomor- 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  1I9 

row,  and  would  continue  to  do  so  the  balance  of 
the  voyage.  So  it  appears  that  the  Capt.  is  not 
so  hard-hearted  as  we  thought  him,  indeed,  all 
men,  however  mean  they  may  appear,  will  at 
some  time  show  some  redeeming  quality,  for  "Na- 
ture never  made  a  heart  all  marble,  but  in  its  fis- 
sures, sows  the  wild  flower  "LOVE"  from  whose 
rich  seeds  springs  forth  a  world  of  mercies  and 
sweet  charities."  Hope  that  we  will  not  have  to 
draw  his  brandy  many  days  for  I  would  willingly 
forego  his  brandy  and  everything  else  he  has  on 
board  to  be  off  this  darned  old  craft.  Had  quite 
a  scene,  down  in  our  part  of  town,  this  morning 
between  the  Rev'd  Mr.  Home  and  Mr.  Bottler. 
Mr.  "H"  said  that  the  proprietor  of  the  Can- 
ton Hotel  in  Honolulu,  told  him  that  Mr.  B.  left 
there  without  paying  his  bill.  B.  denied  it  and 
one  word  brought  on  another  until  the  lie  passed. 
The  Rev'd  gentleman  called  B.  a  liar,  an  infernal 
scoundrel,  and  abused  B.  and  his  father  in  pretty 
hard  language,  generally,  threatening  to  write  to 
the  Island  and  prove  that  he  did  what  he  charged 
him  with.  B.  abused  him  in  turn  and  told  him 
if  he  was  not  an  old  man,  he  would  whip  him;  to 
this,  the  Rev'd  gentleman  told  him  he  was  young 
enough  for  him  and  dared  him,  "B"  to  strike  him. 
Quite  a  crowd  soon  collected  and  some  of  them 
spoke  rather  hard  about  a  minister  doing  as  the 
Rev'd  gentleman  was   then   acting,   which   upon 


120  Notes   on   Land  and  Sea 

his  hearing  brought  forth  another  tirade  of  abuse, 
directed  principally  against  B — one  of  our  mess. 
The  Hon.  called  him  a  liar,  infernal  scoundrel, 
etc.  and  threatened  to  have  him  put  in  jail  as  soon 
as  we  landed.  B  laughed  at  him  and  so  it  ended 
for  a  while,  until  young  B  going  down  the  main 
hatch  for  something,  saw  the  Rev'd  gentleman 
again,  when  another  Battle  in  words  took  place. 
The  Minister  went  to  his  berth  and  trunk  and 
took  out  something  which  B  said  was  a  knife, 
anyhow,  the  gentleman  kept  his  right  hand  behind 
him,  whether  he  had  a  knife  or  not,  and  called 
upon  the  crowd  to  witness  it.  B  again  told  him 
he  was  a  hypocrite  and  if  not  an  old  man  he 
would  whip  him.  H.  gritted  his  teeth,  looked  sav- 
age, called  him  a  liar,  infernal  scoundrel  and 
dared  him  to  strike  him,  telling  him  again  that  he 
was  young  enough  for  him.  This,  like  everything 
else — but  a  ring — had  an  end,  and  quiet  once 
more  reigned  around  us.  A  good  many  hard 
things  were  said  on  each  side  about  private  char- 
acter. The  Holy  gentleman  threatened  to  write 
to  E.  where  they  had  come  from,  and  get  evi- 
dence to  prove  that  they  were  as  mean  as  he  rep- 
resented them.  A  preacher  has  as  good  a  right 
probably,  as  any  person  to  use  such  language 
as  Mr.  H.  used,  but  then  it  sets  us  sinners  a  bad 
example,  which  we  are  too  apt  to  follow,  prefer- 
ring evil  to  good  anyhow.    My  own  opinion  is  tliat 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  121 

the  Bible  teaches  us  that  if  a  man  smites  you  on 
one  cheek,  turn  to  him  the  other;  but  our  chaplain 
prefers  to  return  the  same  he  received,  an  eye  for 
an  eye  and  a  tooth  for  a  tooth.  This  is  a  free 
country  and  every  man  is  entitled  to  his  own 
opinion,  so  my  opinion  is  that  as  peace  is  restored, 
I'll  drop  the  subject.  While  eating  dinner,  a 
squall  and  rain  made  us  hurry — that  and  ourselves 
— both  down.  Winds  light  through  the  day.  In 
the  afternoon  we  had  another  short  quarrel  and 
a  few  blows  between  Parish,  a  Swiss,  and  the 
second  mate  of  this  vessel.  The  can^p  '^f  the 
rupture  was  a  dirty  trick  played  upon  P  by  the 
mate  a  few  nights  since,  so  this  afternoon,  P  ac- 
costed him  and  accused  him  of  it,  which  he  did 
not  deny,  but  told  Parish  that  it  was  not  intended 
as  an  insult  but  if  he  took  it  so  he  would  give  him 
satisfaction,  as  soon  as  he  was  off  duty  or  as  soon 
as  he  landed.  P  charged  around  and  spit  in  his 
face,  which  mate  returned  not  wishing  to  strike 
first,  as  he  was  then  on  his  watch,  but  P,  not 
feeling  satisfied,  followed  him  and  struck  him, 
whereupon  the  mate  turned  upon  him,  pushed 
him  down  and  would  have  beaten  him  severely  if 
allowed.  P  drew  a  knife  but  It  fell  out  of  his 
hands  and  no  harm  was  done  with  it.  This  made 
the  Mate  very  savage  and  it  required  the  Captain, 
1st  Mate  and  someone  else  to  hold  him.  Finally 
he  was  quieted  and  carried  to  the  cabin  to  cool  off. 


122  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

He  says  that  the  affair  is  not  settled,  but  that  he 
will  wring  P's  neck  at  some  future  time,  which 
he  is  very  able  to  do,  being  large  and  strong. 
Supper  of  tea  and  potatoes,  then  a  rain  wound  up 
this  eventful  Saturday.  The  wind  improved  af- 
ter sundown,  driving  the  "Cachalot"  along  finely, 
when  I  went  below  and  stretched  myself  on  my 
plank. 

SUNDAY,  JULY  28th.  The  wind  during  the 
night  veered  a  little  and  increased  considerably 
so  that  this  morning  finds  us  going  ahead  finely 
on  our  course.  M  is  still  low  and  very  sick, 
though  his  appearance  and  symptoms  are  more 
favorable  than  for  the  last  few  days.  Called 
to  see  Dr.  Cade,  of  Georgia,  this  morning  and 
found  him  quite  sick — headache,  nausea  and  fe- 
ver, very  much  like  all  who  have  had  fever  during 
the  voyage.  I  would  like  much  to  hear  Dr.  D. 
of  old  Shelbyville  preach  to-day  but  instead  of 
that  I  hear  nothing  but  oaths  and  speculations 
on  the  length  of  our  voyage  and  upon  the  gold 
mania  generally.  If  such  a  thing  were  possible 
I  would  like  to  have  a  view — a  sight — of  all  the 
passengers  on  board  this  old  ship,  twelve  months 
hence,  to  see  if  they  have  realized  their  ex- 
pectations in  leaving  the  comforts  of  home  to  dig 
a  fortune  in  California's  far  famed  dirt,  but  that 
being  impossible,  I'll  guess  what  I  do  not  know. 
Besides,  I  had  really  rather  not  know  if  for  knowl- 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  123 

edge  is  purchased  at  the  expense  of  life  as  was 
said  to  be  the  case  with  old  Adam,  for  I  find  it 
reported  somewhere  that  the  first  man  who  ate 
of  the  apple  of  knowledge  died  of  indigestion. 
The  Captain  was  as  good  as  his  word  and  gave  us 
a  bottle  of  brandy'to  each  mess — this  morning. 
No  preaching  to-day.  "Why?"  I  know  not. 
After  eating  our  duff  and  fresh  pork,  I  laid  down, 
and  read  and  dozed  away  part  of  the  afternoon. 
Some  of  the  passengers  did  the  same,  while  some 
played  cards,  and  others  talked  and  whiled  the 
day  away  as  usual.  Oh,  for  one  Sunday  evening 
at  home,  to  enjoy  the  society  of  kindred  and 
friends.  3>4  months  have  elapsed  since  I  bid 
adieu  to  old  Shelbyville  and  its  inhabitants  and 
what  have  I  done?  In  one  sense — nothing  in 
another,  much.  I  have  made  nothing  and  spent 
much,  for  the  first,  while  for  the  latter  I  have 
seen  a  good  deal  of  the  world  and  much  more 
of  human  nature.  I  have  seen  what  I  do  not  care 
to  put  in  black  and  white.  But  N.C.  here  goes 
for  something  else.  The  wind  continued  favor- 
able through  the  day  and  when  old  Sol  retired 
our  vessel  was  walking  the  waters  like  a  thing 
of  life. 

MONDAY,  JULY  29th.,  1850.  During  the 
night  we  made  a  gallant  run  but  towards  morn- 
ing the  wind  changed  a  point  or  so  and  prevented 
the  "Cachalot"  from  making  such  headway  (be- 


124  Notes   on  Land  and  Sea 

ing  too  close  on  the  wind — to  keep  her  course) 
to  sail  as  fast  as  when  she  has  a  wind  free.  Brandy 
again  this  morning.  Dr.  C.  of  Georgia  is  ap- 
parently better  this  morning,  hope  he  may  con- 
tinue to  improve.  M.  is  also  better  in  every 
respect  and  with  good  attention  will  "if  no  re- 
lapse occurs"  convalesce  as  speedily  as  a  person 
can  (on  this  craft)  who  has  been  ill  as  he  has. 
Card  playing,  washing,  mending  and  the  usual 
avocations  of  the  passengers  goes  on  this  morn- 
ing, as  usual  while  others  are  speculating  upon 
the  probable  length  of  our  voyage  and  the  pros- 
pects of  suddenly  acquiring  a  fortune  in  Cali- 
fornia. Finished  reading  a  novel  this  evening, 
called  "Self"  and  in  the  principal  character  there 
is  described  I  can  see  a  fac-simile  in  many  per- 
sons on  board  this  vessel.  Self  is  predominant 
and  so  much  plainer  does  it  appear  here  than 
I  ever  saw  it  before,  that  my  former  opinion  is 
more  fully  confirmed  than  ever  that  there  is  no 
such  a  thing  as  disinterestedness.  As  the  day 
closed  the  wind  became  more  unfavorable  driv- 
ing us  North  and  N.  West,  contrary  to  where 
we  wish  to  go.  Oh,  that  this  old  boat  had  wheels 
and  an  engine  to  drive  her  through  the  vasty 
deep  against  all  opposition!  We  have  now  been 
out  55  days  and  are  a  long  way  off  our  destina- 
tion yet.  'Tis  almost  enough  to  drive  a  man 
crazy  and  were   it  not   that  there   are   so  many 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  125 

of  us  here  "as  misery  loves  company"  would  come 
near  doing  me  up.  And  now  to  my  plank  and 
sleep. 

TUESDAY,  JULY  30th,  1850.  Waking  up,  I 
found  the  sun  shining  brightly  on  our  right  and 
the  darned  old  ship  going  N.  W. — where  I  know 
not,  probably  in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin. 
After  washing  off  some  dirt  and  washing  more  in, 
I  called  on  Dr.  C.  and  found  him  doing  about 
as  well  as  could  be  expected.  Dressed  his  blister 
and  visited  M  who  I  found  about  as  yesterday. 
His  condition  is  such  as  to  justify  the  belief  that 
he  will  be  on  his  legs  by  the  time  we  reach  Cali- 
fornia. After  breakfast,  tacked  ship  and  stood 
East  by  south,  traveling  slowly  with  a  light  wind. 
In  my  sleep  last  night  I  visited  old  Shelbyville 
and  held  sweet  converse  with  some  of  its  citizens, 
but  with  returning  consciousness,  I  found 

"The  spell  was  broke,  the  charm  was  flown ! 
Thus  it  is  with  life's  fitful  fever. 
We  madly  smile  when  we  should  groan; 
Delirium  is  our  best  deceiver." 

About  noon  we  had  a  rain  and  then  a  calm,  roll- 
ing, rolling  on  old  Ocean's  bosom  without  pro- 
gressing any.  Were  it  not  for  cooking  and  eat- 
ing, what  should  we  do?  In  faith,  I  know  not. 
Broiling  meat,  roasting  and  frying  pumpkin  and 
bread  constitutes  the  chief  employment  of  some, 


126  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

and  I  think  that  those  who  never  ate  pumpkin 
before  can  now  eat  it  fried,  roasted  or  boiled. 
What  a  change  circumstance  works  on  us  mor- 
tals. The  wind  sprung  up  at  sunset  and  so  closed 
the  day. 

WEDNESDAY,  JULY  31st,  1850.     On  waking 
up  this  morning  found  the  sun  up  and  the  wind 
tolerable  free  and  fair,  and  the  old  ship  plowing 
her  way  through  the  briny  deep  in  the  direction  of 
San  Francisco  at  the  rates  of  6  or  7  knots  per 
hour.     Saw  Dr.  C  who  is  better,  able  to  sit  up 
and  walk  about  some.     M  is  improving,  but  so 
slow  as  to  be  scarcely  perceivable.     The  length 
of  his  sickness,  bad  air  and  impossibility  of  get- 
ting regimen  suitable  for  sick  persons,  all  com- 
bined, render  his  convalescence  very  tardy.    But 
Hope,  the  Anchor  upon  which  we  all  cling  holds 
out  a   flag  of  ultimate  success,   unless  some  un- 
toward change  for  the  worse  should  take  place. 
After  breakfast,  we  had  another  scene  between 
Mr.  B  and  the  Rev'd.  Mr.  Home  which  the  pas- 
sengers decided  to  have  nothing  to  do  with  and  so 
it  ended,  I  hope  forever,  for  it  is  certainly  dis- 
agreeable to  see  persons  from  the  same  country 
"all  time  quarreling  and  at  loggerheads,"  so  far 
from  home  as  we  are  and  all  going  to  the  same 
place  and  for  the  same  purpose.      Rainy,   rainy 
and  disagreeable.     Bad  dinner  and  bad  weather 
give  passengers  bad  temper  as  was  seen  by  a  quar- 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  127 

rel  in  the  roof  soon  after  soup.  L.  &  E.  The 
wind  continued  strong  until  night,  which  was 
cool,  yes  cold,  rendering  blankets  and  overcoats 
comfortable.  Thus  ended  July  1850  with  a  wet, 
cold,  dark  night. 

THURSDAY,  AUGUST  ist,  1850.  Last  night 
was  cold  and  to  me  a  long  night,  gloomy  and 
uncomfortable  to  most  the  passengers  and  this 
morning  the  first  of  August  is  as  cold  here  as 
an  October  morning  at  home.  The  wind  con- 
tinued pretty  stiff  through  the  night  and  this 
morning  we  are  going  ahead  to  "Californy"  right 
gallantly.  Dr.  C.  is  rather  worse  to-day,  the 
glands  of  neck  all  very  much  swollen,  so  much 
so  as  to  impede  respiration  and  deglutition. 
Ordered  a  poultice  of  light  breva-tobacco  and 
onions — and  a  blister  to  his  nape.  M.  is  clear  of 
fever  and  appears  to  be  improving,  though  slow- 
ly. Several  of  those  ugly  birds  called  "Stinkers" 
that  were  caught  yesterday  were  cooked  and 
eaten  by  some  of  the  passengers  this  morning.  I 
did  not  partake,  but  from  their  appearance  and 
the  avidity  with  which  they  were  eaten  it  was 
about  as  good  as  anything  we  get  on  this  d — d 
French  ship.  Cool  and  cloudy  at  noon,  with  light 
wind.  I  am  in  hopes  now  of  getting  on  shore, 
some  time  this  month  as  we  are  not  more  than 
1000  miles  from  our  destination,  and  this  only 
the  first  day  of  August.     To-day,  all  was  peace- 


128  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

ful  and  quiet,  no  quarrels  and  no  fights.  Duff 
for  dinner,  and  rice  and  molasses  for  supper, 
after  which  there  was  a  game  of  Hat  on  the  poop 
deck.  As  the  sun  retired  the  wind  revived  and  at 
8  o'clock  we  were  progressing  finely.  To  bed. 
FRIDAY,  AUGUST  2nd.,  1850.  One  more  day 
to  be  got  over  in  some  way.  During  the  night 
the  wind  lulled  and  the  old  "Cachalot"  rocked 
most  confoundedly,  notwithstanding  I  managed 
to  doze  and  dream  away  the  night,  for  which 
I  was  so  thankful  that  I  was  forced  like  Sancho 
Panza  to  exclaim — "blessed  is  the  man  that  in- 
vented sleep."  I've  wished  often  since  this  voy- 
age begun  that  I  could  take  such  a  Nap  as  Rip 
Van  Winkle  enjoyed.  Not  quite  so  long,  but  until 
the  shores  of  California  hove  in  sight.  Cool, 
cloudy  and  wind  light  this  morning,  but  what 
little  we  have  is  bearing  us  on  our  course,  to  the 
long  desired  port.  Dr.  C.  is  about  the  same,  no 
reduction  in  the  swelling  of  his  face  and  neck. 
Ordered  a  hot  poultice  and  broken  doses  of  Ipe- 
cac. M  is  improving,  but  so  slow  as  to  wear 
a  sick  man's  patience  "which  they  don't  often 
have"  completely  out.  From  noon  until  night 
we  had  no  wind,  the  surface  of  old  ocean  was 
smooth  and  placid,  just  swell  enough  to  keep  us 
rolling  gently.  About  supper  time  a  shower,  just 
enough  to  be  vastly  disagreeable.  When  will  this 
end?     I  hope  soon,  for  of  all  places  to  wear  one 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  129 

out,  this  beats  any  I  ever  saw.  About  dusk  there 
was  some  indications  of  a  breeze;  but  none  came, 
so  I  turned  in  disappointed  again. 
SATURDAY,  AUGUST  3rd,  1850.  Passed  an- 
other disagreeable  night,  our  old  craft  rolling 
about  but  making  no  headway,  the  calm  of  yes- 
terday continuing  all  night  and  this  morning 
finds  us  here,  to  all  appearances  in  the  same  place, 
rolling  on  the  deep  blue  sea.  The  Star  of  hope 
at  times  seems  as  if  it  were  about  setting  or 
hiding  itself  behind  some  gloomy  cloud;  all  ap- 
pears dark  and  dreary  to  us  worn  out  voyagers, 
then  a  few  beams  from  the  nearly  hidden  star 
will  fall  on  us  to  cheer  us  on  and  bid  us  be  of 
good  hope.  Saw  Dr.  C.  who  is  in  Statu  Quo. 
M  is  convalescing,  but  very  slow.  The  other 
sick  aboard  are  all  improving.  Our  appetites  are 
almost  ravenous  which  is  essential  to  enable  us 
to  eat  and  digest  our  hard  fare.  About  12,  we 
saw  a  number  of  large  fish,  called  Black  Fish. 
They  look  something  like  a  porpoise  except  their 
head  and  nose  which  is  larger  and  blunter,  in  fact, 
they  are  quite  a  pug-nose  looking  animal.  Wind 
light,  nearly  calm,  dull  and  gloomy,  all  out  of 
heart  and  low-spirited.  Oh  for  a  wind!  Pur- 
chased ^  dozen  bottles  of  Ale  which  I  trust 
will  help  me  through  with  our  hard  meat  and 
bread.  All  quiet  on  board,  probably  from  Imita- 
tion, as  we  are  all  creatures  of  imitation,  as  the 


130  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

sea  has  been  quiet  and  calm  now  for  the  last  few 
days.  Cloudy  and  warmer  than  for  the  last  few 
days  and  looks  like  rain.  Wish  it  would  and  the  • 
have  a  fair  wind.  And  so  ends  the  day. 
SUNDAY,  AUGUST  4th.,  1850.  Awoke  this 
morning  and  found  the  old  craft  running  pretty 
fair,  the  wind  having  sprung  up  about  4  o'clock 
this  morning.  Breakfast  of  fresh  pork  and  cof- 
fee over,  the  usual  scenes  of  ship  life  commence, 
and  though  to-day  is  the  day  set  apart  for  rest 
and  religious  exercises,  very  little  of  the  hitter  is 
done  here.  Dr.  C.  about  the  same.  M.  is  con- 
valescing. Card  playing  goes  on  as  on  any  other 
day  and  in  fact  were  it  not  known  by  keeping  an 
account  of  the  time,  one  would  never  know  when 
Sunday  came  on  board  this  vessel,  so  callous  have 
we  all  grown  as  regards  the  observance  of  reli- 
gious worship.  Nearly  every  night  we  have  a 
discussion  of  some  kind,  among  the  passengers — 
frequently  political — which  often  ends  in  party, 
and  sometimes,  personal  abuse.  This  is  wrong, 
for  if  men  can't  agree  it  is  no  reason  why  each 
one  should  not  be  entitled  to  his  opinion,  for 
the  man  who  will  not  admit  that  each  party  may 
honestly  maintain  its  peculiar  opinions  is  a  BI- 
GOT with  whom  it  is  vain  to  argue  and  towards 
whom  anger  would  be  ridiculous.  Hung  my 
greasy  trousers  over  the  bows  to  let  them  wash 
themselves,  as  I  could  not.     After  dinner,  we  had 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  131 

a  better  wind  and  had  the  sight  of  a  whale,  who 
came  up  a  few  rods  astern  of  us  and  "blowed" 
a  while,  then  disappeared.  He  was  of  pretty 
good  size  and  attracted  considerable  attention; 
being  the  first  one  we  have  seen.  Calm  again  and 
continued  so  until  old  Sol  went  to  rest,  when  I 
did  the  same,  about  eight. 
MONDAY,  AUGUST  5th.,  1850.  The  old  ship 
rocked  and  rolled  all  last  night  in  the  troughs  of 
old  Ocean — so  much  so  that  I  passed  a  disagree- 
able night  and  got  up  this  morning  with  pain 
and  aches  all  over  me.  Going  on  deck  I  found 
the  wind  fair  and  good,  but  it  soon  changed  to  a 
headwind  and  then  ceased  blowing  frpm  ,any 
quarter  leaving  us  to  roll  about  as  before.  Half 
done  beans  and  broth  for  dinner  which  I  did  not 
touch.  Dr.  C.  continues  about  the  same,  the 
swelling  of  his  glands  and  neck,  undiminished. 
M.  is  on  the  rising  order  and  though  ailing  man- 
ages to  swallow  down  some  of  his  ale.  In  the 
afternoon,  we  had  a  little  more  wind  and  travelled 
all  o'er  the  glad  waters  of  the  deep  blue  sea 
with  sails  full  and  a  wind  that  followed  fast. 
About  supper  we  had  indications  of  rain,  but  it 
passed  away  and  left  us  before.  Called  in  to  see 
L.  in  the  roof  and  found  him  suffering  consider- 
ably with  pain  in  the  abdomen,  something  like 
colic.  Gave  him  an  opii  pill  and  directed  hot  ap- 
plications.    After  sundown  had  a  sight  of  the 


132  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

evening  star  which  looked  red  and  brilliant  and 
what  was  strange,  there  was  another  star  appar- 
ently within  two  feet  of  it,  nearly  equal  in  size  and 
brilliancy.  1  never  saw  the  like  before  and  heard 
the  same  remarked  by  several  of  the  passengers. 
They  both  disappeared  gradually  and  the  wind  in- 
creasing we  traveled  on  a  little  faster  and  with 
better  spirits. 

TUESDAY,  AUGUST  6th.,  1850.  Slept  but 
little  last  night  having  to  be  up  with  L.  who  ap- 
peared to  suffer  considerably.  Gave  him  SrOpii, 
Chi.  Ether  and  Spts.  Camphor  a  a,  which  acted 
like  a  charm  and  soon  quieted  him,  when  I  turned 
in  again  and  slept  sound  until  daylight.  During 
the  night,  the  wind  continuing  fair,  we  made  a 
better  run  than  we  had  done  for  the  last  few 
days,  and  this  morning  found  us  going  on  finely; 
but  a  squall  and  rain  coming  up  about  breakfast 
time  killed  off  the  wind  and  left  us  doing  as  we 
have  done  for  the  last  three  or  four  days — noth- 
ing. Dr.  C.  is  clear  of  fever  but  his  neck  con- 
tinues about  the  same.  On  examining  closely,  I 
found  both  ears  were  enormously  distended  from 
which  a  thick  matter  was  exuding.  Ordered  a 
light  bread  poultice  to  his  throat  but  the  Captain, 

d n  him,   would   not   give    a   small   piece   of 

bread  for  that  purpose,  telling  B,  who  applied 
for  it,  to  make  a  poultice  out  of  the  hard  and 
wormy   biscuits;   which    he    gives   us   to   eat.      I 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  133 

wish  he  had  one,  crossways  in  his  throat  and  it 
had  to  stay  there  until  I  removed  it — guess  he'd 

suffer  a  while  d n  him.     M.  is  improving,  tho' 

ale-\ng.  After  dinner  another  chunk  of  a  fight 
at  the  roof  between  Mr.  C.  KS  and  Mr.  L.  They 
passed  a  few  licks  and  were  separated,  neither 
being  hurt.  Wind  light  all  day  and  traveled 
slowly.  Cloudy  and  rained  a  little.  Dull  time, 
all  getting  impatient.  Sunset  was  beautiful  and 
then  comes  night, 

WEDNESDAY,  AUGUST  7,  1850.  After  roll- 
ing about  all  night,  the  wind  sprang  up  this  morn- 
ing and  carried  us  along  at  the  rate  of  5  knots 
in  as  many  hours.  I  slept  sound  and  arose  in 
time  to  eat  some  wormy  bread  and  drink  some 
miserable  bad  coffee.  Called  to  see  Dr.  C.  and 
found  him  to  be  about  the  same  as  yesterday,  no 
diminution  in  his  swelled  neck;  poor  fellow,  he 
has  had  and  will  have  a  hard  time  of  it.  M.  is 
coming  it  slowly.  L.  is  in  about  the  same  situa- 
tion as  yesterday — having  suffered  more  or  less 
all  night.  Saw  those  two  stars  again  last  evening. 
They  were  about  the  same  distance  apart  as  the 
evening  before,  but  did  not  shine  so  brilliantly. 
Washing,  card  playing,  little  writing  and  etc., 
as  usual.  Nothing  new  to  break  the  monotony 
of  the  times.  Oh!  for  a  wind  to  send  us  in.  A 
good  many  of  the  passengers  ale-\ng  to-day  on  ac- 
count of  the  wind  being  better  than  for  the  last 


134  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

four  or  five,  which  puts  them  all  in  better  spirits. 
To-day  about  noon  the  eclipse  of  the  sun  was  vis- 
ible to  us  tho  not  so  plain  as  I  expected  to  see  it. 
The  intercepting  body  passed  across  the  lower 
third  of  the  sun  and  was  visible  only  a  short  time. 
New  moon  to-day  and  the  wind  being  good  and 
fair,  I  hope  it  may  continue  long  enough  to  run 
us  to  our  long  desired  port.  Had  a  PAN  CAKE 
for  supper,  after  which  saw  L.,  with  Dr.  Young 
who  examined  him  and  agreed  to  use  G  &  Q  aa 
Opii,  SSpilutars.  Sumat  tres  hori.  The  day  ended 
and  leaving  the  old  ship  to  run  by  herself,  I 
turned  in. 

THURSDAY,  AUGUST  8th.,  1850.  Awoke 
this  morning  and  heard  the  rain  pattering  down 
on  decks,  most  beautiful.  I  lay  still  for  a  short 
time  while  it  ceased  raining  and  I  went  up  on 
deck  and  saw — ,  "What?"  the  same  cheerless  and 
dull  scene  that  has  been  presenting  i^-self  ever 
since  leaving  Panama — Sky  and  water  and  oc- 
casionally clouds.  We  made  a  pretty  fair  run  last 
night  and  are  doing  finely  to-day.  If  the  wind 
continues  as  it  is,  a  few  days  longer  our  voyage 
will  be  at  an  end,  as  we  have  indications  that 
land  is  not  as  far  from  us  now  as  it  were  a  week 
ago.  The  clouds  look  a  little  different  and  rhose 
persons  who  sleep  on  deck,  (and  some  have  done 
so  the  whole  voyage)  say  that  the  dews  are  much 
heavier    now    than    a    few    days   back.      To-day 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  135 

we  had  another  chunk  of  a  fight  on  top  the  roof, 
the  cause  of  which  was  a  little  different  from  the 
first  fight  we  had  on  board,  for  then  it  was  Vinegar 
and  to-day  it  was  sugar,  one  sour  and  the  other 
one  sweet.  Strange  that  reasonable  men  will 
fight  one  another  for  such  trifles.  My  patients 
all  appear  better  to-day.  Had  Duff  for  dinner. 
Gramy  announced  this  evening  that  he  was  done 
sewing  for  this  voyage.  Towards  sundown  the 
wind  nearly  ceased  and  left  us  to  roll  about  on 
the  breathings  of  old  ocean  one  more  night.  Sup- 
per, and  sundown  follows,  then  comes  night,  when 
we  go  down  below,  turn  in,  sleep — dream  and 
sleep. 

FRIDAY  MORNING,  AUGUST  9th.,  1850. 
Was  awakened  this  morning  by  the  rolling  of  the 
vessel,  when  I  turned  out,  went  up  and  found  the 
same  scene — sky  and  water — the  sails  all  hanging 
and  flapping  loosely  on  their  spars  and  as  a  natu- 
ral consequence  the  old  ship  scarcely  making  head- 
way enough  to  steer  her  straight.  Holy  Moses, 
when  will  this  end!  The  sick  all  appear  to  be 
improving  except  Dr.  C.  who  remains  much  the 
same.  The  elements  continue  calm  all  day,  to 
make  up  for  which  some  of  No.  4  mess  and  the 
Launche  denizens  became  a  little  boisterous.  They 
were  not  full,  just  had  plenty.  Nothing  more 
occurred  to  break  the  monotony  of  the  day  and 
old  Sol  gradually  hid  himself  in  the  deep  dark 


136  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

sea  looking  fiery  and  red,  as  if  he  too  had  been 
on  a  jollification. 

SATURDAY,  AUGUST  loth.,  1850.  Arose 
from  a  sound  night's  sleep  and  found  the  wind 
fair  and  the  "Cachalot"  walking  the  waters  like 
a  thing  of  life.  The  passengers  talking  and 
speculating  on  the  probabilities  of  seeing  land 
to-day,  but  all  in  vain,  for  as  breakfast  was  over 
the  wind  gradually  died  off,  and  left  us  rolling 
about  as  before.  Hope  deferred  maketh  the 
heart  sick.  Disappointment  lurks  in  many  a  prize, 
like  bees  in  flowers  and  stings  us  men  with  success. 
Just  as  we  expected  to  be  speedily  blown  into 
our  long  desired  haven,  the  wind  ceased  and 
left  us  to  roll  away  another  day  on  old  Ocean's 
bosom.  Early  this  morning  some  of  the  passen- 
gers saw  the  spouting  of  one  of  the  monsters  of 
the  great  deep,  and  again  this  evening  we  could 
see  them  in  several  directions,  throwing  up  the 
spray  from  the  briny  deep  and  occasionally  show- 
ing their  sides  and  great  fins  to  our  staring  gaze. 
Several  times  during  the  day  the  cry  of  "land" 
was  heard  but  no  such  good  luck  awaited  us,  and 
old  Sol  retired  to  his  watery  bed  leaving  us 
where  he  found  us  in  the  morning — on  the  vasty 
deep. 

SUNDAY  MORNING,  AUGUST  nth.,  1850. 
After  lying  down  last  night,  the  New  Yorkers 
commenced  their  political  discussion   again   and 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  137 

carried  it  so  far  that  the  passengers  after  asking 
them  in  vain  to  desist,  commenced  in  self  defense, 
to  sing,  laugh,  talk,  holler  and  imitate  dogs  and 
other  animals,  until  the  whole  steerage  was  one 
continual  uproar,  when  they  ceased;  if  political 
discussion  commenced  again  they  would  do  the 
same  and  kept  it  up  until  the  Y's  gave  it  up  in 
disgust.  During  the  night  the  wind  sprang  up 
and  we  made  a  pretty  fair  run  but  this  Sabbath 
morning  finds  us  moving  slowly,  with  light  wind 
and  an  appearance  of  rain.  After  breakfast  the 
wind  freshened  up  and  carried  us  along  at  the  rate 
of  6  or  7  knots  per  hour.  The  sea  has  changed 
from  a  deep  blue  to  a  greenish  color,  which  in- 
dicates soundings  and  a  nearer  contiguity  to  land 
than  we  have  been  since  leaving  the  Islands.  Saw 
an  object  floating  to  leeward  to-day  which  was 
supposed  to  be  the  wreck  of  some  small  vessel. 
My  patients  all  improving  while  my  patience  is 
nearly  exhausted.  After  dinner  a  good  many 
of  the  passengers  saw — land — or  what  they 
thought  was  dirt.  Heavy  fogs  appeared  in  the 
direction  of  the  Coast — at  one  time  so  thick  that 
you  could  scarcely  see  the  ship's  length  ahead.  A 
good  many  speculations  and  some  bets  whether  or 
not  land  was  really  in  sight  or  not,  were  made. 
At  one  time  it  appeared  to  be  land,  then  a  fog 
would  intervene  and  all  appearance  of  dirt  would 
vanish.     This  continued  until  about  supper  time 


138  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

when  all  doubts  were  removed  and  Uncle  Sam's 
soil  once  more !  after  a  voyage  of  67  days  from 
Panama  on  the  trackless  deep  was  presented  to 
our  admiring  gaze.  All  was  joy  and  mirth  on 
board.  Despondency  and  gloom  gave  way  to 
cheerfulness  and  gaiety.  The  bold  oudines  of 
the  coast  became  more  distinct  towards  night, 
large  mountains  apparently  covered  with  snow 
extending  up  along  the  coast  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  scan.  The  wind  continued  to  increase  until 
I  turned  in  for  the  night  when  it  was  blowing  a 
considerable  gale  driving  us  right  on  to  the  en- 
trance of  the  bay.  Saw  several  sails  before  dark. 
MONDAY,  AUGUST  12th.,  1850.  Last  night 
was  the  coldest  we  have  had  and  was  the  coldest 
I  ever  felt  in  August.  All  the  night  through  the 
wind  blowed  and  whistled  through  the  rigging 
at  an  "orfiiW  rate  making  the  old  "Cachalot" 
creak  in  every  joint.  The  waves  were  high,  and 
came  leaping  on  as  though  they  would  engulf  us, 
but  the  old  ship  rode  them  safely  through.  The 
Captain  kept  her  standing  on  and  off  the  en- 
trance until  daylight  when  he  could  see  how  to 
steer  her  in.  As  soon  as  day  came,  we  ran  into 
the  entrance  "to  the  bay"  which  is  i>^  mile 
wide,  on  each  side  of  which  appear  large  hills 
apparently  very  much  resembling  the  hills  and 
mountains  on  the  Islands.  We  saw  several  ves- 
sels, just  within  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  but 


Notes  on  Land  and  Sea  139 

whether  they  were  inward  or  outward  bound  I 
know  not.  The  rising  sun  makes  the  hills  and 
the  bay  spread  out  before  us,  look  beautiful  and 
grand.  Wild  ducks  here  are  numerous.  At 
length  we  have  passed  through  the  Golden  Gate 
and  are  now  in  sight  of  the  great  City  of  San 
Francisco,  with  its  harbor  and  thousands  of  ves- 
sels from  all  parts  of  the  universe. 

DISAPPOINTMENT   IN   CALIFORNIA 

Many  who  go  to  California  have  pictured  to 
themselves  an  El  Dorado,  where  gold  was  abun- 
dant "like  the  drunken  husband's  milk,  lying 
loose"  and  the  people  there  wanting  in  sagacity, 
and  where  they  were  to  become  suddenly  rich  in 
some  unknown  but  easy  manner.  This  same 
weakness  of  mind  that  indulged  in  such  absurd 
expectations  produces  petulance  in  disappoint- 
ment. Such  persons  become  embittered  against 
the  country  on  finding  that  there,  as  everywhere 
else,  a  man  must  sow  before  he  reaps;  must  win 
wealth  by  industry  and  talent  and  '--■■;'■  ropfcnd 
with  the  common  difficulties  of  nature  and  the 
shrewdness  of  an  intelligent  and  enterprising  peo- 
ple, as  well  as  the  polished  rascal,  with  his  plaus- 
ible theories  and  brilliant  temptations  of  risking 
a  little  and  making  a  good  deal.  Having  to  con- 
tend with  all  these  heterologous  influences  he  soon 


140  Notes  on  Land  and  Sea 

becomes  disheartened  and  dissatisfied  and  curses 
himself  for  going  to  it,  and  the  country  for  not 
realizing  his  anticipation. 


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